Clio 182, what to look out for?
10 April 2013, 06:47 PM
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Clio 182, what to look out for?
Hi I've had my p1 now for 2 1/2 years and was looking to sell it about 6 months ago, decided to keep it and never put it up for sale.( it's my 6th Scooby) Out of the blue the guy who bought my previous Subaru text me asking if I wanted to sell my p1 ( he fell in love with it when he bought my old car as I gave him a little drive :-) ).
He's coming to view my car next week but wants to px his Clio 182 against it. Now I don't know anything about them but quite fancy a hot hatch for a change so what do I need to look out for and how much is it worth roughly? ( it's a 54 plate cup with 60k fsh and modded to around 220 bhp)
Thanks in advance g-string.
He's coming to view my car next week but wants to px his Clio 182 against it. Now I don't know anything about them but quite fancy a hot hatch for a change so what do I need to look out for and how much is it worth roughly? ( it's a 54 plate cup with 60k fsh and modded to around 220 bhp)
Thanks in advance g-string.
10 April 2013, 07:19 PM
#2
Make sure the cambelt has been done, it's due every 5 years or 72k miles. They should really have the dephaser pulley and the aux belt and tensioner done at the same time. It's not a cheap job so if it's due factor that in.
Give it some pedal in first and second, make sure the change between gives no knocking. Or accelerate hard in 1st and back off. The engine mounts and the bottom gearbox dog bone mount all wear and cause the engine to rock back and forth too much and the exhaust will hit the subframe. Not the end of the world but just something to bare in mind.
Steering wheels can look a bit manky as they sort of melt on the window side.
Check all the lights and while running them press brake and check the instrument display, if you get a flashing of the fog tell tale (think it's fog) light then you'll need to fiddle with the plugs and earthing to rear lights (clean pins of plugs and wd40 sorts it 9/10)
Check the rear exhaust mount rubber (right at the back bumper) as these fall apart and are a specific mount (can get them ok from euro's though)
They are pretty reliable cars if looked after. Obviously just make sure it's been looked after and all the stuff you'd check is good.
Give it some pedal in first and second, make sure the change between gives no knocking. Or accelerate hard in 1st and back off. The engine mounts and the bottom gearbox dog bone mount all wear and cause the engine to rock back and forth too much and the exhaust will hit the subframe. Not the end of the world but just something to bare in mind.
Steering wheels can look a bit manky as they sort of melt on the window side.
Check all the lights and while running them press brake and check the instrument display, if you get a flashing of the fog tell tale (think it's fog) light then you'll need to fiddle with the plugs and earthing to rear lights (clean pins of plugs and wd40 sorts it 9/10)
Check the rear exhaust mount rubber (right at the back bumper) as these fall apart and are a specific mount (can get them ok from euro's though)
They are pretty reliable cars if looked after. Obviously just make sure it's been looked after and all the stuff you'd check is good.
10 April 2013, 07:51 PM
#5
As James said above...just make sure whoever does the cam belt + dephaser knows what they are doing. Its so easy to get the timing out without the proper locking tools as there is no woodruff/keyway on the pulleys, the cheapy locking tools don't always work properly. Worse still. The timing can be out a little bit and you wouldn't know as the idle control and variable valve timing adapts and covers it up. You may notice a hesitance or flat spot sometimes, but without driving another known "good" car, you'll likely never know.
Oh yeah, and the auxiliary belt should be done every three years too, and that's bit of an **** too as access is pretty tight
Few other things:
Make sure the heater fan works on all speeds and turns off, as the fan control unit does have a habit of dieing.
Check the car sits level - front coil springs do snap on these now they are getting a bit old. Top mounts go too.
Hazard switch breaks (can't turn them off).
Headlamp washer jets leak (easy fix - fit a non return valve)
The UCH (body/multifunction control unit) can go a bit glitchy. You'll know this as various electrics/electronics will stop working, or won't turn off (lights, wipers, door locks etc). I had cases where the whole car has died and magically come back to life after the battery was disconnected for half an hour (apart from the engine immobiliser kicking in...which needs the ignition kept on for a few minutes to allow it to untwist its knickers). Also they don't take kindly to passengers with big feet (as they kick the relays! ).
So to wrap up...yup its probably going to have gremlins. Still a cracking car to drive though.
Oh yeah, and the auxiliary belt should be done every three years too, and that's bit of an **** too as access is pretty tight
Few other things:
Make sure the heater fan works on all speeds and turns off, as the fan control unit does have a habit of dieing.
Check the car sits level - front coil springs do snap on these now they are getting a bit old. Top mounts go too.
Hazard switch breaks (can't turn them off).
Headlamp washer jets leak (easy fix - fit a non return valve)
The UCH (body/multifunction control unit) can go a bit glitchy. You'll know this as various electrics/electronics will stop working, or won't turn off (lights, wipers, door locks etc). I had cases where the whole car has died and magically come back to life after the battery was disconnected for half an hour (apart from the engine immobiliser kicking in...which needs the ignition kept on for a few minutes to allow it to untwist its knickers). Also they don't take kindly to passengers with big feet (as they kick the relays! ).
So to wrap up...yup its probably going to have gremlins. Still a cracking car to drive though.
Last edited by ALi-B; 10 April 2013 at 08:03 PM.
10 April 2013, 08:00 PM
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Wow, some great info there cheers, he defiantly said 220 bhp though. He didn't say what was done just that he had tons of receipts for everything, think the previous owner had all the work done. Well I'll just have to see when he pops over and I'll let you all know. Thanks for the knowledge 
10 April 2013, 08:02 PM
#7
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Make sure the cambelt has been done, it's due every 5 years or 72k miles. They should really have the dephaser pulley and the aux belt and tensioner done at the same time. It's not a cheap job so if it's due factor that in.
Give it some pedal in first and second, make sure the change between gives no knocking. Or accelerate hard in 1st and back off. The engine mounts and the bottom gearbox dog bone mount all wear and cause the engine to rock back and forth too much and the exhaust will hit the subframe. Not the end of the world but just something to bare in mind.
Steering wheels can look a bit manky as they sort of melt on the window side.
Check all the lights and while running them press brake and check the instrument display, if you get a flashing of the fog tell tale (think it's fog) light then you'll need to fiddle with the plugs and earthing to rear lights (clean pins of plugs and wd40 sorts it 9/10)
Check the rear exhaust mount rubber (right at the back bumper) as these fall apart and are a specific mount (can get them ok from euro's though)
They are pretty reliable cars if looked after. Obviously just make sure it's been looked after and all the stuff you'd check is good.
Give it some pedal in first and second, make sure the change between gives no knocking. Or accelerate hard in 1st and back off. The engine mounts and the bottom gearbox dog bone mount all wear and cause the engine to rock back and forth too much and the exhaust will hit the subframe. Not the end of the world but just something to bare in mind.
Steering wheels can look a bit manky as they sort of melt on the window side.
Check all the lights and while running them press brake and check the instrument display, if you get a flashing of the fog tell tale (think it's fog) light then you'll need to fiddle with the plugs and earthing to rear lights (clean pins of plugs and wd40 sorts it 9/10)
Check the rear exhaust mount rubber (right at the back bumper) as these fall apart and are a specific mount (can get them ok from euro's though)
They are pretty reliable cars if looked after. Obviously just make sure it's been looked after and all the stuff you'd check is good.
Ive had 2 182's a inferno orange one and also a liquid yellow one. Also bought a 172 cup but sold it to my brother pretty much straight away.
Exhaust hangers are prone to going, also had a spring snap one my orange one.
Awesome fun though, I bought a RS tuner for mine which lets you clear/check codes and put on different maps etc
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10 April 2013, 09:11 PM
#9
Worth around £2000. Sold my immaculate 55 plate with full renault service history, cam and alt belt, with both cup packs. 90k on the clock for £1600. Check for gearbox noises and also oil leaks on engine around the cylinder head. Wanted quick sale as bought my scooby before it sold 
10 April 2013, 11:43 PM
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I owned a flame red 172 quite a few years ago. I'm not sure if it was changed for the 182(with the exception of the trophy recaros), but the seating position was not very nice. Used to get a bad back on long journeys.
Cracking car apart from that! Think they look the part too!!
Cracking car apart from that! Think they look the part too!!
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