BMW E36 328i Coupe?
#1
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BMW E36 328i Coupe?
OK, so I've pretty much ditched the small french hatch idea and I've had a couple of chats with a work colleage who might be selling his 328i coupe. Its a 97 with 138K on the clock. Only wants 1500-2000 for it. Needs some cosmetic stuff - red is a bit faded and rear arches are starting to go. I just think it looks quite nice and might be a decent project car.
Anyone had one before - whats it like on fuel and consumeables?
Anyone had one before - whats it like on fuel and consumeables?
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I had one for about 6 months and got pretty fed up with it in the end. May be I had a duff one. First thing to check is that the gear stick centralises when you let go of it. There was a fault on all 328's and m3 boxes when the detent springs and pistons that control where the gear lever rests. After time, they start to seize and will only move after the box is fully warm which can take 20 mins plus. You'll go from 2nd and want to get 3rd and you will end up in 5th. Ok, it doesn't sound to bad but trust me, when my daily commute was 15 mins each way, it really started to p*ss me off. And, its a gear box out job to fix.
-Check that the radio reception is good as the built in aerial amplifier that hides behind the nearside c-pillar panel, usually fails.
-Check that it doesn't wander as the rear trailing arms don't last long and are a bitch to replace.
-Front callipers have a tendancy to sieze.
Also, I'm not a big guy at all, but the seat belt buckle sat too high and was always digging into my hip.
And to be honest, it handle like a comedy car. If you can get an early one with and LSD rather than the ASR traction control unit, you will have a car that handles properly.
As for running costs, mine averaged 24-25mpg over the 6 months.
Really try it for a good 24 hours if you can, to make sure you like it. And ask the guy to honest why he is selling it. Mine had 140k on the clock.
-Check that the radio reception is good as the built in aerial amplifier that hides behind the nearside c-pillar panel, usually fails.
-Check that it doesn't wander as the rear trailing arms don't last long and are a bitch to replace.
-Front callipers have a tendancy to sieze.
Also, I'm not a big guy at all, but the seat belt buckle sat too high and was always digging into my hip.
And to be honest, it handle like a comedy car. If you can get an early one with and LSD rather than the ASR traction control unit, you will have a car that handles properly.
As for running costs, mine averaged 24-25mpg over the 6 months.
Really try it for a good 24 hours if you can, to make sure you like it. And ask the guy to honest why he is selling it. Mine had 140k on the clock.
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OK, so I've pretty much ditched the small french hatch idea and I've had a couple of chats with a work colleage who might be selling his 328i coupe. Its a 97 with 138K on the clock. Only wants 1500-2000 for it. Needs some cosmetic stuff - red is a bit faded and rear arches are starting to go. I just think it looks quite nice and might be a decent project car.
Anyone had one before - whats it like on fuel and consumeables?
Anyone had one before - whats it like on fuel and consumeables?
http://pistonheads.com/sales/1818766.htm
Cheaper all round than a 328i, 100kg+ lighter, sharper turn in from better weight distribution, but 50hp down
Just a thought
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Nice cars. I had a 323 coupe with the 2.8 and it was pretty nippy, nicely balanced handling. Had no mechanical problems with it. Good sideways action. Fuel wasn't as bad as you'd expect but not brilliant.
1500-2000 is approaching top end, I'd want a mint one for that. I paid less than half that for a newer one in a better colour (light met blue) with zero rust (although admittedly it didn't start as a 328).
1500-2000 is approaching top end, I'd want a mint one for that. I paid less than half that for a newer one in a better colour (light met blue) with zero rust (although admittedly it didn't start as a 328).
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I think so; and almost the only coupe I'd ever consider owning. My problem is that every summer I get a bit bored of driving my old Jeep and fancy something a bit exciting. I'm happy to take on something that needs a little TLC because it can come off the road over the winter while I use the Jeep.
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On a car that old and with that many miles, if it were a problem it would have been dead a LONG time ago. Or guzzle more oil than a BP oil spill.
Low sulphur petrol has been around for god knows how long; it only damaged engines used for a sustained pweriod with fuels containing high levels of sulphur, most of those will have reared their head long before now in the way of excessive oil consumption and/or crankcase pressurisation (and loss of compression i.e: anything associated with bore/ring wear).
One thing to look out for on these engine is sludge. Longlife service intervals don't really work on BMWs that do short journeys, as a consequence they sludge up causing running issues and engine wear. As well as making the top end clatter. Looking under the oil filler is a give away. Cars used for longer journeys don't suffer anywhere near as badly.
I would expect an M52 engine of that age/mileage to have some Vanos rattle by now. If its just a faint buzzy rattle a few seconds after start up or at fast idle (2000rpm), don't worry its still good, but if its noisy all the time, then its on its way out.
If you hear a thumping/kocking noise on on start up after the car has stood a while (cold over night, or after a hour or so after a loing motorway run) combined with the oil pressure light taking longer than 3 seconds to extinguish, walk away. The oil filter housing is draining down from a sticky drain back valve (part and parcel of the sludging issue), and has to refil the filter housing with oil evertime the engine is started. It can go on for years like this, but it does shorten engine life span (as it momentarily starves bearings), so on a 12yr old/150K car this could mean it hasn't long left. ( Hear is an example during a cold start after standing overnight, the bottom end takes a good 4-5 seconds before getting oil supply, as you can hear: http://www.nataz.pwp.blueyonder.co.u...28%20knock.mp3 )
Other issues: Suspension; its an old car so it should have had some bushing replaced by now, if not get it checked out. Namely on the front lower arms and on the rear trailing arms. Nothing should be sloppy or vague when driving this car, no steering freeplay and no wallowing. That being said, its not the most brilliant handling of cars when pushed (when compared to a 5 series), but it should still feel quite direct without pulling/wandering/tramlining presuming the geometry or nothing else is worn out too badly.
Also worth poking your head under the driver's side dash and checking the gaiter on the master cylinder push rod; if the master cylinder is leaking, it'll weep from here (can't remember if you need to remove some trim). This will result in a squidgy brake pedal, which is cured after fluid replacement+bleeding, but returns a few months later.
Low sulphur petrol has been around for god knows how long; it only damaged engines used for a sustained pweriod with fuels containing high levels of sulphur, most of those will have reared their head long before now in the way of excessive oil consumption and/or crankcase pressurisation (and loss of compression i.e: anything associated with bore/ring wear).
One thing to look out for on these engine is sludge. Longlife service intervals don't really work on BMWs that do short journeys, as a consequence they sludge up causing running issues and engine wear. As well as making the top end clatter. Looking under the oil filler is a give away. Cars used for longer journeys don't suffer anywhere near as badly.
I would expect an M52 engine of that age/mileage to have some Vanos rattle by now. If its just a faint buzzy rattle a few seconds after start up or at fast idle (2000rpm), don't worry its still good, but if its noisy all the time, then its on its way out.
If you hear a thumping/kocking noise on on start up after the car has stood a while (cold over night, or after a hour or so after a loing motorway run) combined with the oil pressure light taking longer than 3 seconds to extinguish, walk away. The oil filter housing is draining down from a sticky drain back valve (part and parcel of the sludging issue), and has to refil the filter housing with oil evertime the engine is started. It can go on for years like this, but it does shorten engine life span (as it momentarily starves bearings), so on a 12yr old/150K car this could mean it hasn't long left. ( Hear is an example during a cold start after standing overnight, the bottom end takes a good 4-5 seconds before getting oil supply, as you can hear: http://www.nataz.pwp.blueyonder.co.u...28%20knock.mp3 )
Other issues: Suspension; its an old car so it should have had some bushing replaced by now, if not get it checked out. Namely on the front lower arms and on the rear trailing arms. Nothing should be sloppy or vague when driving this car, no steering freeplay and no wallowing. That being said, its not the most brilliant handling of cars when pushed (when compared to a 5 series), but it should still feel quite direct without pulling/wandering/tramlining presuming the geometry or nothing else is worn out too badly.
Also worth poking your head under the driver's side dash and checking the gaiter on the master cylinder push rod; if the master cylinder is leaking, it'll weep from here (can't remember if you need to remove some trim). This will result in a squidgy brake pedal, which is cured after fluid replacement+bleeding, but returns a few months later.
Last edited by ALi-B; 26 June 2010 at 01:06 PM. Reason: added mp3
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OK, so I've pretty much ditched the small french hatch idea and I've had a couple of chats with a work colleage who might be selling his 328i coupe. Its a 97 with 138K on the clock. Only wants 1500-2000 for it. Needs some cosmetic stuff - red is a bit faded and rear arches are starting to go. I just think it looks quite nice and might be a decent project car.
Anyone had one before - whats it like on fuel and consumeables?
Anyone had one before - whats it like on fuel and consumeables?
123k on the clock i think
Boston green
LSD fitted (no traction control)
MV1 alloy wheels
Angel eyes retrofitted into original headlights.
Every service always done with oil changes between each service
Grey leather interior (sports front seats)(the drivers leather is starting to get a bit old)
Has had the m50 intake manifold mod
Larger throttle mod
Remap to cater for above.
Pannel filter.
Drop me a pm if you want to know more mate.
He wants £1600
Cheers
Matt
#13
Good cars ive owened my 323i coupe 13 years near. 140k on the clock and still has a nikasil block. Uses about 100ml of oil every 1000 miles but i do drive it hard. Make sure you replace all the bushes with powerflex or similar and it will be fine.
Drove mine at the strighliners sprint lastweekend and with part worn chinese tyres and i was only half a second slower than a focus rs and 1.5 slower than a 911 gt3. So even at 15 years old they still go well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghQCKciszOU
Drove mine at the strighliners sprint lastweekend and with part worn chinese tyres and i was only half a second slower than a focus rs and 1.5 slower than a 911 gt3. So even at 15 years old they still go well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghQCKciszOU
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Here is some pics of my old baby.
Spec.
328i Cabrio
M50 manifold mod
Larger throttle
Underdriver pulleys
Cold air induction kit (with heatsheild and brake duct fitted air feed pipe)
Remapped by ca-automotive
Full powerflex bush set
Uprated LUK clutch
Xenon hid h1 kit
Experiment magnesium ca-automotive Front strut brace (well it was at the time)
E46 clubsport 18" alloys
Full M3 body kit (apart from the side skirts!)
Full carbon badge set
BMW Full respray
This car was one of the best i've owned, and i still miss it!!!
Spec.
328i Cabrio
M50 manifold mod
Larger throttle
Underdriver pulleys
Cold air induction kit (with heatsheild and brake duct fitted air feed pipe)
Remapped by ca-automotive
Full powerflex bush set
Uprated LUK clutch
Xenon hid h1 kit
Experiment magnesium ca-automotive Front strut brace (well it was at the time)
E46 clubsport 18" alloys
Full M3 body kit (apart from the side skirts!)
Full carbon badge set
BMW Full respray
This car was one of the best i've owned, and i still miss it!!!
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