Mark Kwiatkowski

Can anyone help? I've been trying to find a decent buying guide on the net but can't find one Has anyone got any specific tips on what to look out for when buying a 200SX (S13)?

Thanks.

paul w

Mark,

Great cars,i had one for 3 years before the scoob check out the 200sx site
just look out for the normal things and be carefull with cars running more than 18 psi on standard blowers as you can get problems.

Cheers Paul

Ralf

Apart from all the usual things to check note that they are pretty short geared. That's one thing to make them go fast and makes you pay for fuel a bit more than you may imagine.

Thought about getting one too some time ago. Searched the net pretty thoroughly then and can't remember any special things worry about. I liked the practicality of the hatch especially.

Good luck

RESSE

iTrader: (1)

Look for corrosion underneath the rear spoiler - many of the tailgates on these cars go rusty from the inside out (water collecting around the connection points within the bootlid).

I had to replace my Nissan rear spoiler with a second hand one from a Citroen XM.

Richard

marty_t3

I had the same problem with rust on the boot lid. Replaced the spoiler with a different one too.

I'd also make sure there is no big end rattle... they are very soft on S13s. Big ends are particularly prone to going shortly after turbo replacements (happened to me and a mate, the nissan garage told me most cars that get a turbo replaced come back shortly afterwards for the big ends). If the turbo has been replaced recently i'd stay clear. It's cheaper to replace the engine than repair it.

Check the rear subframe bushes for knocking noises under hard acceleration. These are very prone to going. Replacements cost about 120 quid but are a pain to fit.

Check that the car goes into reverse without crunching. Crunching going into reverse is the first sign of the clutch on it's way out.

Check the fuel pipes under the car. I had to replace mine at 64k as they had corroded just under the drivers door. Also check the brake line where they pass through from the engine bay to the driver side wheel arch. It's prone to gathering water around the grommit and tend to corrode. (again, something that went on my car)

200s had quite small brakes 252mm IIRC. They discs can warp easily. Calipers can also get sticky but just need cleaned and refitted.

These are not known for covering high mileages so i'd avoid anything thats over 90k.

Other than that... it's a great car. I had mine for 4 years before trading it in for the scoob. I now wish i hadn't. By far the best car i've ever owned. Loved it to bits. It'll outpace most scoobs on the motorway, even more so after a few hundred quid of mods. Not much fun in the wet though.


[Edited by marty_t3 - 10/30/2002 12:51:54 PM]

Barnaby

If it's high-mileage, watch out for any smoke at all in the exhaust.

Mine gobbled oil and it turned out to be an exhaust valve that was slowly being eaten away. You do not want to know how much it cost to fix!

mike_s14

I'm picking a S13 up this weekend, but the bottom end is shot

Gona be a good track car when its been rebuilt and stripped

Mark Kwiatkowski

Thanks for all the comments, keep them coming

The impression i have is that the 1.8 engine in the S13 is prone to big end problems around the 65-70K mark.

The one that i'm interested in is on the SXOC board (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...threadid=23362) it hasn't got much details but i will phone the guy up and ask a few more questions.


[Edited by Mark Kwiatkowski - 10/30/2002 2:36:31 PM]

marty_t3

That seems a bit cheap for that spec. I'm guessing it has pretty high mileage.

I'd look for a well looked after, fully serviced up, one lady owner car for the same price. You wanna make sure the standard car is in good order before you even think about modifying it. Mods for 200s are cheap so don't be pulled in by a list of parts.

A filter/exhaust/actuator and chip will set you back about 700quid and will get you a reliable 200+ bhp if you have a decent car to start with.

<edit>

the big ends on my car were fine till over 80k (about 500 miles after the turbo blew). The car was running 220+bhp and i'm sure it would have made it to 100k if the turbo hadn't gone.

[Edited by marty_t3 - 10/30/2002 2:57:29 PM]

Mark Kwiatkowski

Maybe i should look for a good standard one then.

Thanks.

paul w

Hey Barnaby i had the same prob with mine,suddenly lost one cylinder took the head off and it had a torched exhaust valve,looked like a rat had nibbled apiece out the size of a pea.

Know what you mean about cost,i reckon the gasket set was 100 quid odd and what a bast@rd to work on.

marty_t3

Mark,

I'd definitely look for a standard unmodified one. Like you know, the big ends are soft, and if a car had been running over 230bhp for a while it wont have done them much good. Better off getting a standard one then tuning it a having the pleasure of melting the big end yourself

Another thing about the standard ones. They should be very quiet so it'll make finding a good one easier. It's a pain trying to listen for any noises that shouldn't be there when you've got 105db of HKS, K&N and a dump valve sounding off in your ear.