MTBr's
#1
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MTBr's
I know there's a fe of you on here, so I'm looking for opinions on a used Cannondale Super V I'm going to look at tomorrow.
I know F A about MTB's and I'm only going for something like this, as I figure I'm better buying a good used, then cr@p new bike.
Here's the spec...
19.5 inch frame (large) suitable for persons around 5ft10 to 6ft 4
Super Fatty D Air Headshock
Fox rear shock
Shimano XT rear mech
Shimano STC RC front mech
Shimano LX 3 x 9 Gear shifters
Cannondale Coda Cranks , stem , bars and wheels
Lightweight Kevlar saddle
Currently fitted with road tyres with loads of tread left.
Has lugs for disk brakes front and rear so easy conversion if you like.
It's in red, which looks like the usual and I expect, as the chap says it isn't a garage queen, it'll be a bit tatty...not bothered about this at all, as I'll sort that out in my own time.
My knees are **** so I won't be going off road much at all, so it won't need a top spec.
Anyway, what value is in it and what should I check for?
I know F A about MTB's and I'm only going for something like this, as I figure I'm better buying a good used, then cr@p new bike.
Here's the spec...
19.5 inch frame (large) suitable for persons around 5ft10 to 6ft 4
Super Fatty D Air Headshock
Fox rear shock
Shimano XT rear mech
Shimano STC RC front mech
Shimano LX 3 x 9 Gear shifters
Cannondale Coda Cranks , stem , bars and wheels
Lightweight Kevlar saddle
Currently fitted with road tyres with loads of tread left.
Has lugs for disk brakes front and rear so easy conversion if you like.
It's in red, which looks like the usual and I expect, as the chap says it isn't a garage queen, it'll be a bit tatty...not bothered about this at all, as I'll sort that out in my own time.
My knees are **** so I won't be going off road much at all, so it won't need a top spec.
Anyway, what value is in it and what should I check for?
#2
Thats an old bike mate .... a good cool retro bike, but when its been out and being used for 15 ish years youve got to consider it a bit like a 250k car.
Not so good bits that are new are going to be preferable to good bits which are old and knackered!
But , on the flipside, theyre pretty good bikes! I used to have one back in the late 90's and it rode pretty well! headshock can be a bit of an odd experience and definately to avoid if it feels rough or notchy! Plus its probably a v brake only frame and fork???? could be wrong though!
How much does he want for it?
Not so good bits that are new are going to be preferable to good bits which are old and knackered!
But , on the flipside, theyre pretty good bikes! I used to have one back in the late 90's and it rode pretty well! headshock can be a bit of an odd experience and definately to avoid if it feels rough or notchy! Plus its probably a v brake only frame and fork???? could be wrong though!
How much does he want for it?
#3
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It has v brakes yes, but I'm not fussed about changing bits if needed....I realise it can be a slippy slope. I take it the frames are good enough, seen as that's the starter bit for a bike?
Is the spec standard for a bike like that, or is any of it uprated?
He's after £160, but I'm not giving him that.
Is the spec standard for a bike like that, or is any of it uprated?
He's after £160, but I'm not giving him that.
Last edited by drb5; 26 June 2012 at 09:05 AM.
#4
£160 .... happy days mate!
The reason i mentioned v brakes, is that it might not have the mounts for the disc brakes on the frame and fork, so its not something you can upgrade to later!
As a get about bike im sure it'll do fine, and the suspension will help your knees out alot! just dont have it too soft or it'll sap your pedalling.
Also, its definately worth changing pivot bearings straight away! Theyre cheap and make a massive difference as the bearings only move a small amount so get a worn in position which locks the back out a fair bit.
The reason i mentioned v brakes, is that it might not have the mounts for the disc brakes on the frame and fork, so its not something you can upgrade to later!
As a get about bike im sure it'll do fine, and the suspension will help your knees out alot! just dont have it too soft or it'll sap your pedalling.
Also, its definately worth changing pivot bearings straight away! Theyre cheap and make a massive difference as the bearings only move a small amount so get a worn in position which locks the back out a fair bit.
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So you'd be quite happy with it under 160 then?
He mentions in the ad it has mounts for disc brakes if I wanted to change them? But what do I look for on the frame to back up that idea?
I'd actually seen a picture of the same bike, but it had dual shockers at the front. I presume that's a simple upgrade?
I'll ask you about changing the bearing if I get it lol.
He mentions in the ad it has mounts for disc brakes if I wanted to change them? But what do I look for on the frame to back up that idea?
I'd actually seen a picture of the same bike, but it had dual shockers at the front. I presume that's a simple upgrade?
I'll ask you about changing the bearing if I get it lol.
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Well i've seen it, but not bought it...yet.
Rear gear selector wasn't working properly, so he's going to swop the selectors for Deore's. These aren't as valuable as the Shimano's though?
Rear gear selector wasn't working properly, so he's going to swop the selectors for Deore's. These aren't as valuable as the Shimano's though?
#7
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I had countless problems with my Headshock, £70 per service (many moons ago) and only stayed smooth for about 1 month after. And at that time it was only Cannondale authorised service centres that could service them and they were few and far between...hopefully things better nowadays but I'd advise caution
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#8
Agreed, if the headshock feels ropey, walk away!
Theyre old tech and youll struggle to get it looked at now!
Adapter cups are available to stick normal forks on .... least they were a fair few years ago! but they werent cheap back then, so probably tricky to find and expensive now.
Theyre old tech and youll struggle to get it looked at now!
Adapter cups are available to stick normal forks on .... least they were a fair few years ago! but they werent cheap back then, so probably tricky to find and expensive now.
#10
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As legacy said, they can be converted for conventional forks but I wouldnt touch it, you would spend the cost of the bike again getting them services of new shocks..
Good frame however
Good frame however
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Well it felt fine for all that i tested it and the chap's on a bike forum, so i'm not sure he'd try his luck and sell a dodgy item without mentioning it...you've got me worried about it now though lol.
#12
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Dave
I might have a Scott Reflex 20 for sale in a couple of weeks for a similar price
Details here :
http://www.epic-mountain-bike.com/sc...-reflex20.html
Its a medium how tall are you?
I might have a Scott Reflex 20 for sale in a couple of weeks for a similar price
Details here :
http://www.epic-mountain-bike.com/sc...-reflex20.html
Its a medium how tall are you?
#14
Just did a wee search for you and the adapter cups seem to be pretty easy to source nowadays.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cannondale...item231da63e2b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cannondale...item231da63e2b
#16
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#18
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Where I feel most strain in my knees is on long climbs, rather than the bumps, but yes, if you've got rear suspension you'll be able to let that take the shock loading more often, rather than being out of the seat using your legs as shock absorbers.
But if you're not going off road that much don't discount a hardtail.
#22
tidy!
Out of interest, when you get it ping up some pics!
If your looking to upgrade some bits on it, id happily ping some suggestions up of stuff to check over and things to change to make it more taylored to what your going to use it for!
Out of interest, when you get it ping up some pics!
If your looking to upgrade some bits on it, id happily ping some suggestions up of stuff to check over and things to change to make it more taylored to what your going to use it for!
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I definitely will fire some shots up.
I think i'm wary enough now about the front shock, i'll probably do that before it goes wrong(if it defo hasn't already). Although i quite fancy it(but doubt i'll stomach paying the money), i've seen pics of a Super V with trick paint job(i'm a panel beater/spray painter to trade), or maybe polish up the frame and stick some 5 spoke wheels on it.
And although the guy says he's fixed the problem, this will play in my head a bit i expect, so may end up doing other things, if it's not too expensive.
I think i'm wary enough now about the front shock, i'll probably do that before it goes wrong(if it defo hasn't already). Although i quite fancy it(but doubt i'll stomach paying the money), i've seen pics of a Super V with trick paint job(i'm a panel beater/spray painter to trade), or maybe polish up the frame and stick some 5 spoke wheels on it.
And although the guy says he's fixed the problem, this will play in my head a bit i expect, so may end up doing other things, if it's not too expensive.
#24
Nowt wrong with painting the frame, especially if its all apart to change bearings anyway.
be warned though, that does go hand in hand with a full rebuild of cables and anything worn out ..... costs rack up quickly and could easily see another £ton on top.
Wouldnt worry about doing the forks if theyre not already fubar'd and with all respect mate, if your new to it and only riding on smooth stuff, you probably wont notice anyway! its not like theyre going to fail and dump you under a bus, so just save that till it definately needs it.
And avoid anything except decent spoked wheels .... anything else is heavy and half as strong! spokes are gooooood!
be warned though, that does go hand in hand with a full rebuild of cables and anything worn out ..... costs rack up quickly and could easily see another £ton on top.
Wouldnt worry about doing the forks if theyre not already fubar'd and with all respect mate, if your new to it and only riding on smooth stuff, you probably wont notice anyway! its not like theyre going to fail and dump you under a bus, so just save that till it definately needs it.
And avoid anything except decent spoked wheels .... anything else is heavy and half as strong! spokes are gooooood!
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Thanks for the info again.
Don't mind spending a bit on it, as it seems not a bad buy, but I'll get it home first and have a good look over it. Sods law it's pouring now...
Don't mind spending a bit on it, as it seems not a bad buy, but I'll get it home first and have a good look over it. Sods law it's pouring now...
#26
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Nice one - get the pics up and let us have a look
There will be lots of stuff you can do yourself if you're half way mechanically minded on the rebuild, but it helps to know a decent bike shop/mechanic. Might be worth getting it serviced? - most places will do a service for under £50 which will incude setting up gears, etc, and checking all the bearings. Can't remember if you've got anything local mate? Its been 5 Years since we moved from Balloch. Is there still a bike shop at Bowling harbour? Just stay clear of Halfords in Dumbarton.
If you're doing it yourself, turn it upside down, pop the chain off and spin the wheels, check for play and noise from the bearings. Should be able to change those if you need to yourself. Check the spokes are nicely tensioned. Look for wear on the hubs and axles. Check the bottom bracket for play and noise - if its got either I'd recommend using a pro unless you've got the tools. Check for play in the headset - bearings may need replaced as its old, but then if you are changing the forks anyway that's one for the future if its not that bad.
On the brakes front, if its got posts for disks you can get a decent set of Shimao hydraulic disk brakes these days for only £60. Ok, so they won't be the best on a serious downhill ride (I had my Avids smoking last time out) but they will be perfect for what you do. Use mineral oil too, so dead easy to maintain. Bought a set for my wife's bike as the brakes she had had non adjustable levers and she was struggling with the reach and they are brilliant for the money.
As you're a painter anyway, frame should be no problem for you - take it its alloy?
You'll need new wheels for the disk set up, but you're looking at changing the wheels anyway. As above, unless you're going carbon wheels which are mega bucks, metal spokes are by far the best. £120 should get you perfectly decent wheels.
See how it all adds up tho ?
Last edited by Devildog; 27 June 2012 at 10:06 AM.
#27
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Lol the rain doesn't bother me in the slightest, but if i'm taking pics of it, the lens might tell me the fvck off.
Forgot about the bike shop in Bowling, cheers! I actually thought the next place was Stirling....if only Ledgerwoods was still open.
I enjoy a learning curve, so i'll give it all a shot myself, but thanks for going over the basics.
Frame is indeed alloy and in particularly good condition for something 15 odd years old.
It requires brake pads, so i'd probably be as well just doing the brake discs etc...
Forgot about the bike shop in Bowling, cheers! I actually thought the next place was Stirling....if only Ledgerwoods was still open.
I enjoy a learning curve, so i'll give it all a shot myself, but thanks for going over the basics.
Frame is indeed alloy and in particularly good condition for something 15 odd years old.
It requires brake pads, so i'd probably be as well just doing the brake discs etc...
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Ok, so £130 lighter, but with a decent bike and spare gear shifters(chap gave me them for nowt-Shimano Deore's) and i'm a happy bunny.
Chain could PROBABLY be doing with being replaced, but seller said he reckoned the brake pads weren't too bad. Supposedly there isn't much beef on them when new?
Anyway, pics...
Not yet tested anything, other than riding it along the road....the seat needs changed, it's rock solid.
Chain could PROBABLY be doing with being replaced, but seller said he reckoned the brake pads weren't too bad. Supposedly there isn't much beef on them when new?
Anyway, pics...
Not yet tested anything, other than riding it along the road....the seat needs changed, it's rock solid.
Last edited by drb5; 27 June 2012 at 04:05 PM.
#29
strooth mate .... £130 ..... bargain!
If the chain needs doing, then youll probably have to do cassette and chainrings too as they wear in together and a new chain will just skip like a bugger and wear out in no time at all as it synks in to the chain rings! If they arent too worn out though, a chain sooner rather than later is a worthy investment! You can tell simply by comparing links/length to a new one!
How do the forks feel? any notchyness or hard bottom out?
Think youll benefit massively from a shorter stem, but they arent easy to find for headshock forks as the steerer it bolts too is massive compared to standard 1 1/8th.
As for upgrading to discs, dont forget to budget for new wheels.
All in all though, complete bargain youve bagged yourself there! If you advertised it for sale straight away on retrobike youd easily double your money!
If the chain needs doing, then youll probably have to do cassette and chainrings too as they wear in together and a new chain will just skip like a bugger and wear out in no time at all as it synks in to the chain rings! If they arent too worn out though, a chain sooner rather than later is a worthy investment! You can tell simply by comparing links/length to a new one!
How do the forks feel? any notchyness or hard bottom out?
Think youll benefit massively from a shorter stem, but they arent easy to find for headshock forks as the steerer it bolts too is massive compared to standard 1 1/8th.
As for upgrading to discs, dont forget to budget for new wheels.
All in all though, complete bargain youve bagged yourself there! If you advertised it for sale straight away on retrobike youd easily double your money!
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Just tried to see about the PSI in the shock....let all the air out and can't get a proper seal to get air back .
Had a look online and it's meant to have around 170PSI for my weight?! That sound ridiculous, but either way, it's not getting air in through the footpump or airline.
Had a look online and it's meant to have around 170PSI for my weight?! That sound ridiculous, but either way, it's not getting air in through the footpump or airline.