ZX6R is too quiet, exhaust suggestions please
#1
Rode my ZX6R in to work today, and have decided that after the scoob it is just too quiet.
It appears that scoobysport do not make exhausts for ZX6R's, so can anyone suggest a good system that will sound good and maybe add a bit more poke.
Would it require rejetting or anything like that?
Cheers
Simon
It appears that scoobysport do not make exhausts for ZX6R's, so can anyone suggest a good system that will sound good and maybe add a bit more poke.
Would it require rejetting or anything like that?
Cheers
Simon
#2
I would recommend you get a race end can.. although not strictly road legal..
Micron and lots of other makes available at a bike shop.
Whilst there though you may as well get in dyno jetted and a K&N filter and a rolling road tune to check all it running right and adjusted to the correct fueling.
Depends how many miles you do though, you could just put a race end can on and you'd never know if it was running lean or not until she went bang.
Try MCN's website for a starting point I suspect there will be adverts and advice there.
JGM
Micron and lots of other makes available at a bike shop.
Whilst there though you may as well get in dyno jetted and a K&N filter and a rolling road tune to check all it running right and adjusted to the correct fueling.
Depends how many miles you do though, you could just put a race end can on and you'd never know if it was running lean or not until she went bang.
Try MCN's website for a starting point I suspect there will be adverts and advice there.
JGM
#3
My brother put a Scorpion Race Can on his Fireblade and it sounds great now. No other changes necessary. No idea of it does anything for performance. These aren't legal either, but then most race cans aren't.
Cheers, Sean
Cheers, Sean
#4
Simes
As suggested, a race can is what you need. A friend of mine can get very good deals from the ART factory, so if you want a price let me know what you're after (stainless/carbon/titanium etc) and I will find out. I'm in the process of getting some rainbow titaniums for my VTR.
As regards jetting, it depends. On a bike such as mine it's not usually necessary as they run rich from the factory, but that's not to say that it wouldn't benefit from careful tweaking with a DJ kit. It's been on the dyno and all was fine on the stock jetting. This varies from bike to bike, and from one manufacturer to another though. A friend of mine has a G-force carbon on his ZX6R and it sounds good, and has no obvious flat spots.
One common misconception is that a race pipe will make your bike run lean, that's not strictly true. Even on stock jetting a bike will alternate between lean and rich mixtures as it runs up the rpm scale. If you can imagine a graph with an 'ideal mixture' line, adding a race pipe normally just shifts the actual mixture around the ideal. So although at certain revs it will be further away from the ideal mixture, it will also be closer to it at other revs. If you spend all day with the throttle at the leanest point you may run into problems, but despite all the horror stories of holed pistons I have yet to speak to one person that it's happened to.
Besides, jap bike engines are STRONG and even tuned ones rarely blow up.
All IMHO of course
Whip
As suggested, a race can is what you need. A friend of mine can get very good deals from the ART factory, so if you want a price let me know what you're after (stainless/carbon/titanium etc) and I will find out. I'm in the process of getting some rainbow titaniums for my VTR.
As regards jetting, it depends. On a bike such as mine it's not usually necessary as they run rich from the factory, but that's not to say that it wouldn't benefit from careful tweaking with a DJ kit. It's been on the dyno and all was fine on the stock jetting. This varies from bike to bike, and from one manufacturer to another though. A friend of mine has a G-force carbon on his ZX6R and it sounds good, and has no obvious flat spots.
One common misconception is that a race pipe will make your bike run lean, that's not strictly true. Even on stock jetting a bike will alternate between lean and rich mixtures as it runs up the rpm scale. If you can imagine a graph with an 'ideal mixture' line, adding a race pipe normally just shifts the actual mixture around the ideal. So although at certain revs it will be further away from the ideal mixture, it will also be closer to it at other revs. If you spend all day with the throttle at the leanest point you may run into problems, but despite all the horror stories of holed pistons I have yet to speak to one person that it's happened to.
Besides, jap bike engines are STRONG and even tuned ones rarely blow up.
All IMHO of course
Whip
#6
Can you still not get termi's for ZX6R's? Damn. I had a full Skorpion race system on mine. Nearly always kept it on the rev limited No probs to report, except scaring small children and old people from about 2 miles away, and I got turned away from a trackday for being too loud
#7
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You gotta go the old Dynojet & Akrapovic / Termingoni or a Yoshi Tri Oval and a decent filter, should get some induction roar and a bit of a howl on!
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#9
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Dynojet stage1 and a full Hindle Race system on an R6...
To give some idea of increases, at the wheel on a rolling road. These were mainly done in summer between a 3 week period so slighty variable. can't remember torque off the top of my head.
Stock R6 was 94.5BHP
With Remus end can, 98bhp
With Stage 1 and Hindle system , 109bhp
The bike did need adjustment even for an end can
J
To give some idea of increases, at the wheel on a rolling road. These were mainly done in summer between a 3 week period so slighty variable. can't remember torque off the top of my head.
Stock R6 was 94.5BHP
With Remus end can, 98bhp
With Stage 1 and Hindle system , 109bhp
The bike did need adjustment even for an end can
J
#10
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Simes
I am just about to do the same thing on my ZX6-R J1 and was looking about, the only race end can that I can find/have seen that says you definately dont need to re-jet is the Scorpion. These are very cheap at about £100 so I have heard but they are not the loudest
I don't know what to go for, I want VERY loud , but dont want the cost and hassle of re-jetting and dyno kit.
Please let me know how you get on as I need some help to make my mind up, as usual!
I am just about to do the same thing on my ZX6-R J1 and was looking about, the only race end can that I can find/have seen that says you definately dont need to re-jet is the Scorpion. These are very cheap at about £100 so I have heard but they are not the loudest
I don't know what to go for, I want VERY loud , but dont want the cost and hassle of re-jetting and dyno kit.
Please let me know how you get on as I need some help to make my mind up, as usual!
#11
The louder it is the less restrictive it is and therefore more power it unleashes and helps the engine breath so the more chance there is that you will need to rejet etc.. in very basic terms anyway.
The Scorpion saying there is no need to rejet and that it is not the loudest pipe means it will not give as much of a power increase I would suspect. Scorpion are a pretty popular brand though..
I know of a couple of people with Art cans without rejetting and no problems, one on an R1 and the other an old FZR.
Have a chat with a nice bike shop if you can find one as they could put it on the rolling road for not much money usually about £50 I think to check it was running okay once the pipe was on the bike..
Depends what you want, more power and more noise etc...
JGM
The Scorpion saying there is no need to rejet and that it is not the loudest pipe means it will not give as much of a power increase I would suspect. Scorpion are a pretty popular brand though..
I know of a couple of people with Art cans without rejetting and no problems, one on an R1 and the other an old FZR.
Have a chat with a nice bike shop if you can find one as they could put it on the rolling road for not much money usually about £50 I think to check it was running okay once the pipe was on the bike..
Depends what you want, more power and more noise etc...
JGM
#13
#15
Thanks for the info peeps
With the non-legal ones, are they stamped with "Not for road use" or anything obvious like that?
Anyone know roughly how much dynojetting costs?
Cheers
Simon
With the non-legal ones, are they stamped with "Not for road use" or anything obvious like that?
Anyone know roughly how much dynojetting costs?
Cheers
Simon
#16
Stamped with exactly that yes... not all but most..
Cost about £300 including pipe.. added to bike when it had 9,000miles on the clock... now has 65,000miles on the clock and not a problem..
JGM
Cost about £300 including pipe.. added to bike when it had 9,000miles on the clock... now has 65,000miles on the clock and not a problem..
JGM
#17
If you want LOUD, go for a D&D race system, they are without doubt the loudest pipes you can buy.
Yoshis are nice, but pricey and don't like British winters much.
Hindle sound like Yoshi and ar much cheaper, tend to give more power than the Yosh too.
Akrapovic are the best looking (IMHO) and are beautifully made too, but I don't think they sound all that good.
I have a Scorpion slip-on on my GSX-R and it sounds nice, deep rumble, enough volume without being obnoxios, lasted 4 years and still looks as good as new, plus it sounds better and is lighter than my mates Micron.
Most systems and slip-ons will be OK without jetting, but far from perfect. Even a standard bike can benefit from rejetting.
In fact, junk that Kwacker, and buy a real bike, you know you want a Suzuki
Yoshis are nice, but pricey and don't like British winters much.
Hindle sound like Yoshi and ar much cheaper, tend to give more power than the Yosh too.
Akrapovic are the best looking (IMHO) and are beautifully made too, but I don't think they sound all that good.
I have a Scorpion slip-on on my GSX-R and it sounds nice, deep rumble, enough volume without being obnoxios, lasted 4 years and still looks as good as new, plus it sounds better and is lighter than my mates Micron.
Most systems and slip-ons will be OK without jetting, but far from perfect. Even a standard bike can benefit from rejetting.
In fact, junk that Kwacker, and buy a real bike, you know you want a Suzuki
#19
Well said Tiggs. I always found that once they had got me down of the back wheel and chewed my nads of for half an hour about doing twice the speed limit, they didn't usually look at the writing on the 'zorst. Wonder why
NotoriousREV - The kwak is a real bike.... unlike that asthmatic think you ride
NotoriousREV - The kwak is a real bike.... unlike that asthmatic think you ride
#21
fast bloke - asthmatic? I've heard the GSX-R's being described as several things, but never asthmatic.
Ah well, I'd rather be wheezy than snot green
Keep the shiny side up, and watch out for tw*ts an 4 wheels
Ah well, I'd rather be wheezy than snot green
Keep the shiny side up, and watch out for tw*ts an 4 wheels
#23
I took my zx6-r to a chap called rhino dyno in croydon (when i had it), he tunes various bikes for road/track and TT, he put on his own carbon sleeved can made to his own spec, dynojetted it, then popped it on his rollers. Had a 10% power hike afterwards and the throttle response was immediate, no twist and wait as it had been previously and no nasty flat spot @ 6000rpm to get through emissions either.
Was great to ride after that, would recommend Nick highly, had three of my bikes taken there, all worked much better than std afterwards.
Edited to say the bike above was an f3 zx6r and final power was 112.5bhp.
I later had a g1 zx6r with scorpion can and NO dynojet kit and it was poo in comparison.
Throttle response was DIRE requiring lots of twisting before it actually did anything, and the flat spot at 6000rpm i could have driven a bus through. was also very 'lumpy' generally.
[Edited by ptholt - 4/26/2002 2:30:24 PM]
Was great to ride after that, would recommend Nick highly, had three of my bikes taken there, all worked much better than std afterwards.
Edited to say the bike above was an f3 zx6r and final power was 112.5bhp.
I later had a g1 zx6r with scorpion can and NO dynojet kit and it was poo in comparison.
Throttle response was DIRE requiring lots of twisting before it actually did anything, and the flat spot at 6000rpm i could have driven a bus through. was also very 'lumpy' generally.
[Edited by ptholt - 4/26/2002 2:30:24 PM]
#26
I can't remember the price now as it was a good few years ago, but the details are as follows :-
Rhino Dyno
79 Gloucester Rd
Croydon Surrey CR0 2DN
Tel: 020 8665 0488
Its a tiny place, chap that owns it is called Nick, nice guy, but very down to earth and swears like a trooper lol.
In total i had three bikes done by Nick, NC30 (can, air box mods + dynojet kit, went like stink afterwards!), zx6r f3 (as above) and duke 996 (50 mill termi's + fuel injection chip - STUNNING noise and performance afterwards) All three bikes came back much better than when i dropped them off, makes for a great ride home.
Rhino Dyno
79 Gloucester Rd
Croydon Surrey CR0 2DN
Tel: 020 8665 0488
Its a tiny place, chap that owns it is called Nick, nice guy, but very down to earth and swears like a trooper lol.
In total i had three bikes done by Nick, NC30 (can, air box mods + dynojet kit, went like stink afterwards!), zx6r f3 (as above) and duke 996 (50 mill termi's + fuel injection chip - STUNNING noise and performance afterwards) All three bikes came back much better than when i dropped them off, makes for a great ride home.
#28
Oh and NotoriousREV,
Suzuki was the last word I expected to see at the end of that sentence
Simon
[Edited by simes - 4/27/2002 12:09:32 AM]
In fact, junk that Kwacker, and buy a real bike, you know you want a
Simon
[Edited by simes - 4/27/2002 12:09:32 AM]
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