watch back removal tool
#1
watch back removal tool
Where can I get hold of a tool to unscrew the back of a watch?
I have 4 watches that I can open with care using a small flat screwdriver, but two watches require some kind of device to unscrew the back. As these watches were relatively expensive I dont wish to damage the back trying to bodge the removal.
I have 4 watches that I can open with care using a small flat screwdriver, but two watches require some kind of device to unscrew the back. As these watches were relatively expensive I dont wish to damage the back trying to bodge the removal.
#2
You can get what you want from Maplin's. Made by Rolson it has 3 pins that can be adjusted for distance and sit in the recesses on the plate on the back of the watch. Can't remember the cost, but £10 ish I should think.
Kevin
Kevin
#4
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Do you know what your doing once the back is off ?
I have x2 three prong adjustable case back removal tools with interchangable blades, one twin prong, a Rolex case back removal set with 6 dies and an orb. (Note genuine Rolex case backs are always different to replica ones, so the dies dont fit on fakes.)
I take it you need battery changes, let me know what the watches are and I will tell you of any pit falls.
Most battery changes are straight forward, some are not and require a elliment of skill and knowledge.
Some " pop off " backs you remove using a spoon/blade require a press tool to replace them, you will never do it by hand as they need to be held flat, and pressure applied evenly. The ones I use look like a G clamp and vice grip tool.
You will also need a seal kit if you want to re-seal the watch, not all seals are re-usable as they pinch/stretch as you remove the case back.
Some watches have a battery locking bar which you simply move across with a spike tool to remove the battery (the battery will actually pop out as the connector on the rear is sprung).
Some have screw in lock bars or plates which require a steady hand, so you will need a loupe and fine flat blade driver.(Note not all screws need to be removed, if there are two then only one needs loosening to release the hook, then rotate it around the second screw.
Some batteries have to be shorted out from the battery to a point marked +.
I always work on a watch in a watch vice/holder so I can use both hands, so I need to take off the strap, again you will then need a springbar removal tool.
Then you will need ceramic/plastic tweezers for handling the battery, if you touch it by hand/finger it will last only 30-50% of its predicted life.
You will need a good light and clean working area, work on a large felt tray so if you drop any parts they wont be lost.
Also work on a low stool so your chest is level with the bench your working on.
You may need magnifiers....blowers....drivers....spikes....and so it goes on, and these are just for battery changing.
I have found Bergeon tools to be the best, I have used their drivers for 2 years and never needed to hone them.
Always buy quality batteries and never use the ones off a large card from the pound shop, as they dont last more than a week.
Never leave a dead battery in a watch as it will leak and ruin the watch.
Always pull out the crown when not wearing a Quartz watch for long periods.
Let me know when you are re building a 27 jewel auto, and I will give you a list of tools required......
I know this was long winded, but it may save your more expensive watches fron the bin.
Later "the watch doctor"... LOL
I have x2 three prong adjustable case back removal tools with interchangable blades, one twin prong, a Rolex case back removal set with 6 dies and an orb. (Note genuine Rolex case backs are always different to replica ones, so the dies dont fit on fakes.)
I take it you need battery changes, let me know what the watches are and I will tell you of any pit falls.
Most battery changes are straight forward, some are not and require a elliment of skill and knowledge.
Some " pop off " backs you remove using a spoon/blade require a press tool to replace them, you will never do it by hand as they need to be held flat, and pressure applied evenly. The ones I use look like a G clamp and vice grip tool.
You will also need a seal kit if you want to re-seal the watch, not all seals are re-usable as they pinch/stretch as you remove the case back.
Some watches have a battery locking bar which you simply move across with a spike tool to remove the battery (the battery will actually pop out as the connector on the rear is sprung).
Some have screw in lock bars or plates which require a steady hand, so you will need a loupe and fine flat blade driver.(Note not all screws need to be removed, if there are two then only one needs loosening to release the hook, then rotate it around the second screw.
Some batteries have to be shorted out from the battery to a point marked +.
I always work on a watch in a watch vice/holder so I can use both hands, so I need to take off the strap, again you will then need a springbar removal tool.
Then you will need ceramic/plastic tweezers for handling the battery, if you touch it by hand/finger it will last only 30-50% of its predicted life.
You will need a good light and clean working area, work on a large felt tray so if you drop any parts they wont be lost.
Also work on a low stool so your chest is level with the bench your working on.
You may need magnifiers....blowers....drivers....spikes....and so it goes on, and these are just for battery changing.
I have found Bergeon tools to be the best, I have used their drivers for 2 years and never needed to hone them.
Always buy quality batteries and never use the ones off a large card from the pound shop, as they dont last more than a week.
Never leave a dead battery in a watch as it will leak and ruin the watch.
Always pull out the crown when not wearing a Quartz watch for long periods.
Let me know when you are re building a 27 jewel auto, and I will give you a list of tools required......
I know this was long winded, but it may save your more expensive watches fron the bin.
Later "the watch doctor"... LOL
Last edited by yoza; 06 September 2009 at 08:44 AM.
#5
Do you know what your doing once the back is off ?
Changing the battery
I have x2 three prong adjustable case back removal tools with interchangable blades, one twin prong, a Rolex case back removal set with 6 dies and an orb. (Note genuine Rolex case backs are always different to replica ones, so the dies dont fit on fakes.)
Nothing fake here - would sooner buy something cheap from the high street than keep the counterfitters in business.
I take it you need battery changes, let me know what the watches are and I will tell you of any pit falls.
Maurice Lacroix Sphere Maurice Lacroix Watches & Maurice Lacroix Watch, SH1018-SS002-120, MLACROIX-SH1018-SS002-120 at WorldofWatches.com
Marco Ceroni MC-6 Milano
Marco Ceroni
Most battery changes are straight forward, some are not and require a elliment of skill and knowledge.
Some " pop off " backs you remove using a spoon/blade require a press tool to replace them, you will never do it by hand as they need to be held flat, and pressure applied evenly. The ones I use look like a G clamp and vice grip tool.
Reckon the Maurice Lacroix back could be a tricky one, as the whole back of the watch is curved.
You will also need a seal kit if you want to re-seal the watch, not all seals are re-usable as they pinch/stretch as you remove the case back.
Not too worried about the seals being replaced, as neither of them ever see water.
Some watches have a battery locking bar which you simply move across with a spike tool to remove the battery (the battery will actually pop out as the connector on the rear is sprung).
Some have screw in lock bars or plates which require a steady hand, so you will need a loupe and fine flat blade driver.(Note not all screws need to be removed, if there are two then only one needs loosening to release the hook, then rotate it around the second screw.
Some batteries have to be shorted out from the battery to a point marked +.
I'll take your advice on this....
I always work on a watch in a watch vice/holder so I can use both hands, so I need to take off the strap, again you will then need a springbar removal tool.
I have a contraption for driving out the pins in the straps so I can work with just the watch body.
Then you will need ceramic/plastic tweezers for handling the battery, if you touch it by hand/finger it will last only 30-50% of its predicted life.
Interesting, I would always clean button batteries with meths before inserting them - have seen jewellers change batteries in my other watches using only fingers. Can you explain how this reduces their life?
You will need a good light and clean working area, work on a large felt tray so if you drop any parts they wont be lost.
Also work on a low stool so your chest is level with the bench your working on.
You may need magnifiers....blowers....drivers....spikes....and so it goes on, and these are just for battery changing.
Not sure the outlay will be affordable would maybe be a better idea to seek out a decent specialist and use their services.....
I have found Bergeon tools to be the best, I have used their drivers for 2 years and never needed to hone them.
Always buy quality batteries and never use the ones off a large card from the pound shop, as they dont last more than a week.
Can you recommend a source for decent batteries. Are there such things as leak proof button cell batteries?
Never leave a dead battery in a watch as it will leak and ruin the watch.
Found out the hard way on this one.
Always pull out the crown when not wearing a Quartz watch for long periods.
Why?
Let me know when you are re building a 27 jewel auto, and I will give you a list of tools required......
I know this was long winded, but it may save your more expensive watches fron the bin.
Later "the watch doctor"... LOL
Changing the battery
I have x2 three prong adjustable case back removal tools with interchangable blades, one twin prong, a Rolex case back removal set with 6 dies and an orb. (Note genuine Rolex case backs are always different to replica ones, so the dies dont fit on fakes.)
Nothing fake here - would sooner buy something cheap from the high street than keep the counterfitters in business.
I take it you need battery changes, let me know what the watches are and I will tell you of any pit falls.
Maurice Lacroix Sphere Maurice Lacroix Watches & Maurice Lacroix Watch, SH1018-SS002-120, MLACROIX-SH1018-SS002-120 at WorldofWatches.com
Marco Ceroni MC-6 Milano
Marco Ceroni
Most battery changes are straight forward, some are not and require a elliment of skill and knowledge.
Some " pop off " backs you remove using a spoon/blade require a press tool to replace them, you will never do it by hand as they need to be held flat, and pressure applied evenly. The ones I use look like a G clamp and vice grip tool.
Reckon the Maurice Lacroix back could be a tricky one, as the whole back of the watch is curved.
You will also need a seal kit if you want to re-seal the watch, not all seals are re-usable as they pinch/stretch as you remove the case back.
Not too worried about the seals being replaced, as neither of them ever see water.
Some watches have a battery locking bar which you simply move across with a spike tool to remove the battery (the battery will actually pop out as the connector on the rear is sprung).
Some have screw in lock bars or plates which require a steady hand, so you will need a loupe and fine flat blade driver.(Note not all screws need to be removed, if there are two then only one needs loosening to release the hook, then rotate it around the second screw.
Some batteries have to be shorted out from the battery to a point marked +.
I'll take your advice on this....
I always work on a watch in a watch vice/holder so I can use both hands, so I need to take off the strap, again you will then need a springbar removal tool.
I have a contraption for driving out the pins in the straps so I can work with just the watch body.
Then you will need ceramic/plastic tweezers for handling the battery, if you touch it by hand/finger it will last only 30-50% of its predicted life.
Interesting, I would always clean button batteries with meths before inserting them - have seen jewellers change batteries in my other watches using only fingers. Can you explain how this reduces their life?
You will need a good light and clean working area, work on a large felt tray so if you drop any parts they wont be lost.
Also work on a low stool so your chest is level with the bench your working on.
You may need magnifiers....blowers....drivers....spikes....and so it goes on, and these are just for battery changing.
Not sure the outlay will be affordable would maybe be a better idea to seek out a decent specialist and use their services.....
I have found Bergeon tools to be the best, I have used their drivers for 2 years and never needed to hone them.
Always buy quality batteries and never use the ones off a large card from the pound shop, as they dont last more than a week.
Can you recommend a source for decent batteries. Are there such things as leak proof button cell batteries?
Never leave a dead battery in a watch as it will leak and ruin the watch.
Found out the hard way on this one.
Always pull out the crown when not wearing a Quartz watch for long periods.
Why?
Let me know when you are re building a 27 jewel auto, and I will give you a list of tools required......
I know this was long winded, but it may save your more expensive watches fron the bin.
Later "the watch doctor"... LOL
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I'm sure quite a few of us would be interested, I used to think that modern watch movements were unserviceable, almost like a sealed unit and binned once faulty, so reading Yoza's posts is quite interesting.
Bollocks to the watch thread haters!
Bollocks to the watch thread haters!
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So far as I know, no watch is un-servicable.
Some are un-economical repairs as the bill my exceed the value of the watch.
I have learnt fast never to say this though...sentimentle value is a powerful thing.
Infact I did a job on a guys watch from work it was an overwound Sekonda...no big deal until he told me why it was so dear to him....It was worst than working on a £3000 breitling, my nerves were shot.
Some are un-economical repairs as the bill my exceed the value of the watch.
I have learnt fast never to say this though...sentimentle value is a powerful thing.
Infact I did a job on a guys watch from work it was an overwound Sekonda...no big deal until he told me why it was so dear to him....It was worst than working on a £3000 breitling, my nerves were shot.
#9
Thanks for the PM earlier Yoza - good advice and good to have a recommended source for battery too.
I have a Citizen watch where the battery leaked and ruined it. It has significant sentimental value. Worth no more than £50 in working order, but even though its internals are totalled, I wouldn't get rid of it.
I have a Citizen watch where the battery leaked and ruined it. It has significant sentimental value. Worth no more than £50 in working order, but even though its internals are totalled, I wouldn't get rid of it.
Last edited by tarmac terror; 06 September 2009 at 10:25 PM.
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Thanks for the PM earlier Yoza - good advice and good to have a recommended source for battery too.
I have a Citizen watch where the battery leaked and ruined it. It has significant sentimental value. Worth no more than £50 in working order, but even though its internals are totalled, I wouldn't get rid of it.
I have a Citizen watch where the battery leaked and ruined it. It has significant sentimental value. Worth no more than £50 in working order, but even though its internals are totalled, I wouldn't get rid of it.
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