House Wall Insulation
#1
House Wall Insulation
House is cold and a bugger to heat and expensive to do so.
It may be that the house is too old for cavity wall insulation as in it hasn't got cavity walls! They're possibly solid but won't know until I have a survey done.
If solid, what are my options?
It may be that the house is too old for cavity wall insulation as in it hasn't got cavity walls! They're possibly solid but won't know until I have a survey done.
If solid, what are my options?
#2
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We're in the same boat in an 19C cottage. Thick, solid walls. Heating is on all the time really and costs a fortune. (The benefit of the thick walls is that you can have the Home Cinema on real loud without the neighbours even hearing it!)
We had people out and there was nothing that could be done, that wouldn't cost an arm & leg to do. Unless you wanna put up stud walls and reduce the room spaces.
We pay £250 p/m for gas & electric.
We had people out and there was nothing that could be done, that wouldn't cost an arm & leg to do. Unless you wanna put up stud walls and reduce the room spaces.
We pay £250 p/m for gas & electric.
#3
yup, you could fit insulated plasterboard like (am i allowed to mention names and products on here?) or similar, second thing would be too look at getting the windows replaced, chances are that is where most of your heat will be being lost.
regarding the walls, how thick are they, that'll give you an idea if cavity or not
regarding the walls, how thick are they, that'll give you an idea if cavity or not
#5
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Consider removing the existing plaster, puting 1" battons on the wall, cover with the new ultra thin composite insulation, taping all the joints then board with polystyrene back plasterboard and reskim.
If you can be doing with the hassle, mess and expense then you can just dot & dab and overboard with polystyrene backed, won't be as good, but it will improve it.
Also look at getting a specialist in to look at windows, loft insulation, etc etc and see where else you may be losing heat from.
Get rid of any green light bulbs and replace with 100W incandesant
If you can be doing with the hassle, mess and expense then you can just dot & dab and overboard with polystyrene backed, won't be as good, but it will improve it.
Also look at getting a specialist in to look at windows, loft insulation, etc etc and see where else you may be losing heat from.
Get rid of any green light bulbs and replace with 100W incandesant
#6
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Our bedrooms are in the loft and the developer didn't put any insulation in. All the walls would need to be knocked down (the several insulation specialists words, not mine) and redone.
I have insulated the only flat piece in the loft, but it's about 1m across, so probably has no effect.
Get this, i can see bits of light when the loft light is on from the back garden.
I have insulated the only flat piece in the loft, but it's about 1m across, so probably has no effect.
Get this, i can see bits of light when the loft light is on from the back garden.
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#8
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Think you lose 25% out of your roof 35% out your wall guess the other lot is windows and doors!
get at LEAST 270mm (if you already got some put the new stuff ontop)in your loft that would pay for itself within about 4-5 months the amount your paying check doors and windows for drafts maybe even your letter box!
I like the 100w bulbs!!!! but you know you can get 150W tho don't forget your
get at LEAST 270mm (if you already got some put the new stuff ontop)in your loft that would pay for itself within about 4-5 months the amount your paying check doors and windows for drafts maybe even your letter box!
I like the 100w bulbs!!!! but you know you can get 150W tho don't forget your
#9
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NEVER FEEL COLD AGAIN!
Heat Rad - Industrial Radiant Heating System
Note the HR.130.FD 38KW
you wont need lights either cus your house would be glowing white welll red hot!
Heat Rad - Industrial Radiant Heating System
Note the HR.130.FD 38KW
you wont need lights either cus your house would be glowing white welll red hot!
#10
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We have D/G every window and door.
All of the downstairs has had insulation boards put under the laminate.
The expense of re-doing the walls and roof is just not worth it as we are leaving in a year (hopefully!)
All of the downstairs has had insulation boards put under the laminate.
The expense of re-doing the walls and roof is just not worth it as we are leaving in a year (hopefully!)
#11
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As above, windows and doors are where major heat loss occurs. I live in an old Victorian house and had the rear elevation double glazed ; I left in the original windows on the front elevation until I could afford to have them restored properly (old style sash windows) and the temp difference from the front to the back of the house is unbelievable !
Its highly unlikely you'll be able to have cavity wall insulation, so I'd recommend re-insulating the loft to start with then maybe look at insulated plaster boards. However the saving these will produce may not be worth the hassle.
Its highly unlikely you'll be able to have cavity wall insulation, so I'd recommend re-insulating the loft to start with then maybe look at insulated plaster boards. However the saving these will produce may not be worth the hassle.
#13
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I think I need to do the lof insulation here, as it does get quite cold, and the lof insultaion currently is some weird fibre board & foam sheets not your traditional style of fibreglass
#14
Our walls are solid and 21" thick..House is cold,but cool in summer is a bonus.
We have our loft and roof well insulated,and our windows are about 5 yrs old..
House is lovely and warm when the heating is on..No problems...
Our front door does need replacing as it bends inward 1/2 inch in winter!!!,it dont half let some wind in..
We have our loft and roof well insulated,and our windows are about 5 yrs old..
House is lovely and warm when the heating is on..No problems...
Our front door does need replacing as it bends inward 1/2 inch in winter!!!,it dont half let some wind in..
#15
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Compared to you guys i am a mere peasant! However a little while ago we got our house cavity wall insulated for £49, all in (3 bed semi). The local council where giving out grants for cavity wall and loft insulation ( i had just done the loft thats why i didn't take it), it may be worth approaching the council to see what grants they have on offer. I think they will throw money at you anyway due to the hugh carbon footprint you must be creating .
Andy.
Andy.
#16
Do some research on the internet.
There is, as others have said, some quite thin insulation board now that does not need you to strip plaster and would make a big difference especially in eaves rooms where there is a lack of insulation.
Secondary double glazing is getting better and a lot cheaper if you are not planning to stay too long and obviously good draught proofing around doos can make a huge difference.
Just put the back of your hand [its the most sensitive for this] around the door frame.
I draughtproofed an old Victorian cottage for £25 - rooms were several degrees warmer.
Make sure though, if you have gas or open fires, there is enough air coming in to feed them so there's no danger of carbon monoxide poisoning .... but then again, if you're dead you won't need to pay the bills!
There is, as others have said, some quite thin insulation board now that does not need you to strip plaster and would make a big difference especially in eaves rooms where there is a lack of insulation.
Secondary double glazing is getting better and a lot cheaper if you are not planning to stay too long and obviously good draught proofing around doos can make a huge difference.
Just put the back of your hand [its the most sensitive for this] around the door frame.
I draughtproofed an old Victorian cottage for £25 - rooms were several degrees warmer.
Make sure though, if you have gas or open fires, there is enough air coming in to feed them so there's no danger of carbon monoxide poisoning .... but then again, if you're dead you won't need to pay the bills!
#17
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Do you have open chimneys?
You will loose a lot of heat up them, more the colder it gets.
I replaced my open fire with a multifuel stove. I get the wood free from work, so get free heat and lost the draft
You will loose a lot of heat up them, more the colder it gets.
I replaced my open fire with a multifuel stove. I get the wood free from work, so get free heat and lost the draft
#19
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25 year old double glazing ? That's where all your heat's escaping !! Get them switched for ones that are compliant with Document L of the Building Regulations for maximum thermal efficiency. Double glazing technology has come quite a long way in 25 years. Shop round local firms for the best price.
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