Wizzbang

Well.....BOLTS actually


Im in need of getting some High Tensile bolts for a motorbike project Im doing


I need to know how to identify a HT bolt from a normal stainless bolt




I think I remember reading somewhere that HT is 8.8 grade and stainless is A2 grade....I looked at a few bolts in B&Q today and some had 8.8 stamped on the head does that mean that theyre HT...cos the box was only marked up as zinc plated.


Or do I just throw a **** load of money at it and get Titanium bolts instead.

Mk2_heaven

all about tittytanium

Odds on

Yes, there HT. They may rust quicker though.

Not really required. Depends on how flush you are.

Just be sure you don't use stainless against a steel frame unless you isolate the 2. They'll react otherwise.

Stainless will be marked as A2 or A4. If you live near the sea, use A4. Zinc will look similar but be unmarked (non HT), or have 8.8 on them (HT). Galv will normally be marked 8.8 and look noticeably different in texture.

HTH

mart360

Possibly there would be some galvanic action steel / stainless, you really need to consult the latest galvanic table to see what will work

Re the bolt markings, do a google search, there are many ways of marking bolts for tensile strength, dots and lines are another method.

8.8 i believe has another standard, 10.0 i,m not to sure exactly i havnt come across them yet.

Mart

Odds on

8.8 is the minimum for holding a structure together. - As in buildings, including the 40+ floor types....

Galv & stainless will react. Trust me, we use both daily. The consultants/ building controllers/ agents & myself all insist on separation. (Also, doesn't electricity speed this up? Like a vehicle using the frame as negative maybe...)

Markings - he's looking to buy bolts from a standard supplier. Not one's specially made for a certain application.

Google can supply anyone knowledge, whether its any good or not is debatable.

Back to topic. Wizzbang, any bolt stamped 8.8 or stainless should be fine for your requirements. In your case it just depends on the type of materials your joining, how you go about it and what environment you'll be using them under. If you would like any further info, I'll be happy to help.

Fuzz

In short, 8.8 is the basic minimum that is classed as High tensile and would certainly hold your car project together fine (unless it's the flywheel to crankshaft ones )

If you are going to use galv bolts then also buy nylon washers to separate from the steel bodywork.

Standard stainless bolts would also do the job and look prettier.
Titanium if you are just being an uber geek about your project.

mart360

The galvanic table

The Galvanic Table
Active (Anodic)

1. Magnesium
2. Mg alloy AZ-31B
3. Mg alloy HK-31A
4. Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
5. Beryllium (hot pressed)
6. Al 7072 clad on 7075
7. Al 2014-T3
8. Al 1160-H14
9. Al 7079-T6
10. Cadmium (plated)
11. Uranium
12. Al 218 (die cast)
13. Al 5052-0
14. Al 5052-H12
15. Al 5456-0, H353
16. Al 5052-H32
17. Al 1100-0
18. Al 3003-H25
19. Al 6061-T6
20. Al A360 (die cast)
21. Al 7075-T6
22. Al 6061-0
23. Indium
24. Al 2014-0
25. Al 2024-T4
26. Al 5052-H16
27. Tin (plated)
28. Stainless steel 430 (active)
29. Lead
30. Steel 1010
31. Iron (cast)
32. Stainless steel 410 (active)
33. Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
34. Nickel (plated)
35. Chromium (Plated)
36. Tantalum
37. AM350 (active)
38. Stainless steel 310 (active)
39. Stainless steel 301 (active)
40. Stainless steel 304 (active)
41. Stainless steel 430 (active)
42. Stainless steel 410 (active)
43. Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
44. Tungsten
45. Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
46. Brass, Yellow, 268
47. Uranium 8% Mo.
48. Brass, Naval, 464
49. Yellow Brass
50. Muntz Metal 280
51. Brass (plated)
52. Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
53. Stainless steel 316L (active)
54. Bronze 220
55. Copper 110
56. Red Brass
57. Stainless steel 347 (active)
58. Molybdenum, Commercial pure
59. Copper-nickel 715
60. Admiralty brass
61. Stainless steel 202 (active)
62. Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
63. Monel 400
64. Stainless steel 201 (active)
65. Carpenter 20 (active)
66. Stainless steel 321 (active)
67. Stainless steel 316 (active)
68. Stainless steel 309 (active)
69. Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
70. Silicone Bronze 655
71. Stainless steel 304 (passive)
72. Stainless steel 301 (passive)
73. Stainless steel 321 (passive)
74. Stainless steel 201 (passive)
75. Stainless steel 286 (passive)
76. Stainless steel 316L (passive)
77. AM355 (active)
78. Stainless steel 202 (passive)
79. Carpenter 20 (passive)
80. AM355 (passive)
81. A286 (passive)
82. Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
83. Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
84. Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
85. Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
86. Titanium 8Mn
87. Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
88. Titanium 75A
89. AM350 (passive)
90. Silver
91. Gold
92. Graphite

End - Noble (Less Active, Cathodic)

We use both daily too

As he tried the usual outlets, i gave him details of suppliers ive used, for one off's and odd sizes

re bolt markings
Keeping It All Together, Part 1

Mart


Mart

Odds on

OMG!

OK, Whizzbang. If your thinking of riding your bike across the bottom of the ocean for a few years before using a nearby volcano as a ramp to get a launch into space, then please pay attention to Mart's guide. Its vitally import if you are also considering storing it in acid when not in use.

Wizzbang

Just for clarification, I need the bolts to connect the brake calipers to the fork legs, as Im changing these weedy calipers




To these funky looking bad boys





I cant use the bolts in the top pic cos they dont fit the new calipers (old caliper 10mm...new caliper 8mm)

mart360

Nip down to your nearest, motorbike dealer, take the bolt in question, and ask them for a 8mm version.

There parts dept will be able to help....

DO not use anodised fittings (funky coloured ones), they are not suitable

and failures are known (sorry if its teaching you to suck eggs, i dont know your bike background, or length of time spent with bikes)

you cannot use nylon washers, between the bolt and the stanchion, the bolt must be torqued to its correct value.

if the new bolts are smaller, you may need to sleeve the bolt holes, as you may suffer alignment issues with the caliper.

Just a thought, the stanchion bolt holes arnt threaded are they? that will cause probs if they are...


For what its worth, i always used to make sure my bolts had a smear of coppa slip on the threads, made dissasembly easier...

whats the bike btw?

Mart

Wizzbang

Cheers Mart

The bike in question is a Kawasaki ZXR400 (ex race bike), and the stanchion holes arent threaded, but do need sleeving down.

Ive just made up the sleeves and spacers to get the right alignment of the new calipers (GSXR1000 K1-K2) to the discs.


The problem is down here in Portmouth the bike dealers are all pap and arent interested in helping unless your either buying a brand new bike or are having your bike through their service department. The original Kawasaki bolts are too wide (10mm) and the Suzuki bolts are too short.


As far as funky anodised carp, the day one of them touches any of my bikes is the day that Satan iceskates to work !!

mart360

Try CMW in Chi they used to pretty good....although most parts depts may be closed now...

Ar,nt any of the B&Q depo,s open, they shoult have what you need, may take some digging....

failing that..Halford,s, they often have odd nuts & bolts knocking around...

you could also try any of the local motor factors to see what they have in the parts bins...

i dont think ive got anything in my bit boxes that would suffice, most of the stuff i use is M8 but in 100mm lengths

mart

Wizzbang

Just got back from Screwfix (new trade outlet in Hilsea) with a box of 100 M8x40mm High Tensile bolts for £4......jobs a gooden

mart360

We've got one opening in Chi very soon.

so we know what you'll be doing later/ tommorow


Mart

Wizzbang

Done now





Cheers for all the help guys

Odds on

Looking good

Mart was correct (when he found out the application) BTW. Nylon separators shouldn't be used in this case.

Looks like it will be a good weekend to give them a test run......

Fuzz

LOL I think you might be right

Chip

Remember as well that just as important as the type of bolt you use on your calipers are the torque settings that are applied.

Chip