Stueyb

Hi peeps,

Just after a bit of advice about cycling. Ive decided to start cycling to work and I remember I did ask about tyres, bikes and such. I do remember someone mentioning puncture proof tyres. What where they and where can I get em.

Brendan Hughes

If you're talking about thin wheels (most people don't these days!), I was recommended Panaracer Pasela TGs. Just got a pair, but haven't used them yet. (And as I don't make a habit of specifically cycling over thorns, broken glass, nails etc, I doubt my report will be much use when I do use them.) I used to use Specialised Touring X, with Kevlar strip.

No idea how much it works, but I certainly seemed to get less punctures while using them. And as mending one is a PITA, I'm all for a gadget that reduces it.

When I was researching the new ones, there were comments about keeping your tyres pumped as the sidewalls were weak, so you'd crack them rather than getting a puncture.

Graz

I'm a mountain biker myself so not too up on road bike bits and pieces. However I do seem to remember from my road biking days that you could get tyres with a layer Kevlar under the tread that should keep out most punctures.

You can also get some stuff which I think is called Slime, its a liquid you put in you inner tubes which is supposed to seal up any punctures as they happen.

Whilst on this subject anyone remember those solid tyres you could get that really were puncture proof, truly awful, gave a really harsh ride.

imlach

The ones you want are the Specialised Armadillos (they come in various tread patterns).

ie, the Specialised Nimbus Armidillo is quite a smooth treaded urban tyre. The non-armidillo version has a single kevlar layer across the tread, while the Armidillo version has a double layer of kevlar across the tread, and a single layer behind the sidewalls.

£9.95 for the non-armidillo, and £18 for the armidillo version.

In stock here : www.edinburghbicycle.com

PS I have the armidillo version and on a cycle path on the way to my work, I got no punctures in 1 year, while my mate with normal tyres averaged 2 punctures/month.

imlach

Never liked this stuff - guess what happens when you want to deflate your tube using the valve

Ciaran

iTrader: (16)

well puncture proof bollocks! no such thing unless the tyre is solid.
a tyre can be more durable but will be heavier.
i did 3k miles on a mountain bike last year on and off raod and not one puncture!

would just reccomend using heavy duty tubes and keeping them reasonably hard.

also just car a spare tube!

pm me if u want any more info as i have plenty knowledge on such things!

greasemonkey

Yep, Slime and its various copies are a pest if you subsequently want to deflate the tube (in a non-destructive manner!).

As for puncture proof tyres Stuey, you can get solid things that are literally puncture proof, but are also awful to ride on. However, there are plenty of modern, fast rolling road tyres that are very good in this respect. I've used Michelin tyres on my training wheels for years, haven't had a puncture for ages - probably not this century, covering anything between 4 and 6000 miles per annum too.

Butkus

I've had these for about 1,000 miles now and haven't had a puncture with them. They have some anti-puncture layers on them, but they're more of a racing tyre so don't expect them to wear that well.

the moose

Second the recommendation for the Armadillo tyres - 2000 miles on the road bike and not a single puncture. Mind you, a lot of the bump absorption goes as the tyre's very stiff, but that's the trade you make.

Scooby owner one day

Anyone know why my tyre keeps going flat after I fitted a knew one which then kept going flat after about a week so bought a new innertube and it was ok for a few days but now it goes completely flat after one day.

imlach

Check the inside of the tyre for any sharp bits.
Also, unlikely given a new tyre, but is your brake block rubbing on the edge of the tyre as well as the rim of the wheel? If so, it could have rubbed straight through the tyre and is puncturing the inner tube.

Or, are you using tyre levers to put the tyre back on? You could be pinching the tube and causing a tiny hole which may be a slow puncture...

greasemonkey

Couple of likely potential explanations. First one would be you not putting enough pressure in the tyre, so it's prone to snakebite damage (i.e. you trap the sidewall and tube between the floor and the rim).

Other one would be damaged rim tape allowing tube to blister through, and/or get damaged by the spoke ferrules.

Also check there are no foreign bodies inside the tyre (or sticking through it), and make sure you don't pinch the tube with the tyre levers or the tyre when you're fitting it

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

And don't go buyin poxey Latex tubes that are so porus that u end up pumping your tyres up every other day!

greasemonkey

Lol, latex tubes are for racing on B0dski, not training, so you take the lower rolling resistance and don't worry too much about pumping them up before you start. As for buying them, most of the better tubulars still come with latex liners, so in many cases you don't get the choice.

Graz

Yeah never used it myself but I thought I'd give it a mention. I think my Dad uses it on his.

Personally I just put up with the punctures. I always carry a spare tube and a few glueless patches so it only take a few mins to swap / fix. Get loads while mountain biking anyway, it's just all part of the fun.

I don't like to run my tyres too hard as the subsequent loss of traction is none to clever on a bit of rocky or rooty singletrack. May give tubeless a go one day.

the moose

Have been running tubeless for a few months on one of the MTBs. Good in the sense that you get more traction and can run at 20psi, but to be honest it's more trouble than it's worth, at least with the Stan's No-Tubes setup. Might give proper tubeless tyres (I've been using std tyres) a go at some point, but the choice isn't there at the moment.

I hammer my bikes to bits, but it's very rare that I get a puncture, even on flinty downhills.