What Camera for a beginner?!?
#1
I want to buy a digital SLR camera. But I am only a beginner and I've just started to get interested in photography. I really want to buy a manual SLR.
But what camera is good for a beginner? The prices range alot and I dont really want to spend a fortune. (£700+)
I'd love to be able to take pictures like this:
I want a camera which I can learn how to use as I go along and isnt too hard for a beginner, ie too many settings.
Any advice would be great.
Cheers
[Edited by Recaro - 1/1/2004 9:19:51 PM]
But what camera is good for a beginner? The prices range alot and I dont really want to spend a fortune. (£700+)
I'd love to be able to take pictures like this:
I want a camera which I can learn how to use as I go along and isnt too hard for a beginner, ie too many settings.
Any advice would be great.
Cheers
[Edited by Recaro - 1/1/2004 9:19:51 PM]
#3
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Fully manual control digital SLR ? Take a look at the Canon 10D or similar.
That photo could be a single shot. Certainly looks doable.
Cheers
Ian
That photo could be a single shot. Certainly looks doable.
Cheers
Ian
#6
Taken from the main website:
[Edited by ianmiller999 - 1/1/2004 11:43:09 PM]
Photographed and Photoshopped by Arin Ahnell
Currently much of the work here is his Photoshop edited digital pieces. Check back soon for his negative and slide work.
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#8
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Anything less than 10D spec. will leave you with a camera that you won't have all the control you want. 10Ds are just over the grand mark but then remember you will also have to buy a lens or two on top of that. For a shot like the one above you will need something super wide, e.g. the Sigma 12-24 (just over £500) or a super wide prime.
The Canon 300D (very similar to the 10D) does much the same as a 10D but some aspects of setup are automatic and you can't do anything about it. The 300D also does not have mirror lockup, flash exposure compensation etc. You might well not need these but I would say that you do
Maybe look second hand ? Get a proper dSLR like the Canon D30 or D60.
If it doesn't have to be an SLR then the world is you oyster. Canon G3 or G5 would be a good place to start looking.
Apologies for the Canon bias. It is all I know.
Cheers
Ian
[Edited by IWatkins - 1/2/2004 1:18:21 AM]
The Canon 300D (very similar to the 10D) does much the same as a 10D but some aspects of setup are automatic and you can't do anything about it. The 300D also does not have mirror lockup, flash exposure compensation etc. You might well not need these but I would say that you do
Maybe look second hand ? Get a proper dSLR like the Canon D30 or D60.
If it doesn't have to be an SLR then the world is you oyster. Canon G3 or G5 would be a good place to start looking.
Apologies for the Canon bias. It is all I know.
Cheers
Ian
[Edited by IWatkins - 1/2/2004 1:18:21 AM]
#9
Thats a fairly technical shot but not massively difficult to reproduce. It may be photoshopped - there may be some alteration is saturation but I can't otherwise see any reason why it shouldn't be done in one exposure using any old regular camera.
There may also be some extra lighting in the car to give the blue tint on everything inside although the speed clocks or external light outside the car may have been enough to do this.
You would simply need a sturdy tripod in the back of the car fastened down, a straight bit of road and a shutter you can leave open for a fair amount of time. Easy enough. Most expensive thing there is a wide angle lens to get the view you see there.
My recommendation for a camera would be a used D30 or D60 (these predate the 10D by a few years) - same control over exposure etc. and I dare say you'd get one for around the 500 quid mark not including a lens. Maybe a bit less if you look in the right places.
Its going to end up costing you thousands on lenses so I'd forget any ideas of doing it on a budget.
Have a quick look here for an idea on price:
http://search.ebay.co.uk/ws/search/S...0020&catref=C1
[Edited by Ian Griffiths - 1/2/2004 3:01:34 AM]
There may also be some extra lighting in the car to give the blue tint on everything inside although the speed clocks or external light outside the car may have been enough to do this.
You would simply need a sturdy tripod in the back of the car fastened down, a straight bit of road and a shutter you can leave open for a fair amount of time. Easy enough. Most expensive thing there is a wide angle lens to get the view you see there.
My recommendation for a camera would be a used D30 or D60 (these predate the 10D by a few years) - same control over exposure etc. and I dare say you'd get one for around the 500 quid mark not including a lens. Maybe a bit less if you look in the right places.
Its going to end up costing you thousands on lenses so I'd forget any ideas of doing it on a budget.
Have a quick look here for an idea on price:
http://search.ebay.co.uk/ws/search/S...0020&catref=C1
[Edited by Ian Griffiths - 1/2/2004 3:01:34 AM]
#10
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Another vote for the D30 here - you won't find a cheaper camera that gives the control you're looking for. Do budget for lenses, though, it can be the start of an expensive hobby.
I reckon that shot is a composite. One frame will have been taken by a camera mounted on a tripod in the back seat, using a long exposure to capture the lights outside, and a flash (actually visible in the rear view mirror) covered with a blue gel to light the inside of the car. A slave flash is hidden just out of sight in the passenger footwell. Then, a second shot without the flash has been used to replace the dashboard and headrests, which are much darker than the rest of the interior.
For that sort of shot, you need manual control of exposure (long), aperture (small) and flash power (a Canon 550EX would do this well, and could also wirelessly control a 420EX hidden in the footwell). You'd also need a softbox to diffuse the flash.
I reckon that shot is a composite. One frame will have been taken by a camera mounted on a tripod in the back seat, using a long exposure to capture the lights outside, and a flash (actually visible in the rear view mirror) covered with a blue gel to light the inside of the car. A slave flash is hidden just out of sight in the passenger footwell. Then, a second shot without the flash has been used to replace the dashboard and headrests, which are much darker than the rest of the interior.
For that sort of shot, you need manual control of exposure (long), aperture (small) and flash power (a Canon 550EX would do this well, and could also wirelessly control a 420EX hidden in the footwell). You'd also need a softbox to diffuse the flash.
#11
My vote goes for 1 shot - otherwise the detail around the back of the hair should be better than it is......
The in-car light sources look more like a continuous source than flash to me and whatever it was has been completely absorbed by the black trim.
The overall effect makes for a very interesting picture.
I'd go with the above advice regarding cameras - a second hand D30/D60 with a mid-range zoom like the 28-135 would be ideal. However, do be warned that it can be come infectious and you will want to spend a great deal more on kit..... like a tripod, a decent flash, a bag and then you may get into lenses, then better cameras etc
The in-car light sources look more like a continuous source than flash to me and whatever it was has been completely absorbed by the black trim.
The overall effect makes for a very interesting picture.
I'd go with the above advice regarding cameras - a second hand D30/D60 with a mid-range zoom like the 28-135 would be ideal. However, do be warned that it can be come infectious and you will want to spend a great deal more on kit..... like a tripod, a decent flash, a bag and then you may get into lenses, then better cameras etc
#14
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carl longer shutter speeds dimage is 30 seconds in bulb mode, 4 seconds max auto setting, and better burst shooting.
Think thats about it
Si (dimage owner )
Think thats about it
Si (dimage owner )
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Not an expert on the 7i, but:
- the ability to change lenses means not only a much wider choice of focal lengths, but also the ability to use macro lenses, extension tubes, teleconverters, image stabilised optics and other accessories. You can also use fisheye lenses and ultra-wide apertures for shallow DoF. It's not all about zooming!
- you get a wider range of apertures and shutter speeds available.
- the larger sensor means you get better DoF control - everything doesn't have to be in focus. You get very low noise levels too.
- you can use the complete range of flashes, remote release cables and other toys. Studio work becomes possible.
You also get the 'feel' of a real SLR - manual control is quick and easy, and you have a proper sharp optical viewfinder. The batteries last ages too.
The best bit is that s/h D30s are now depressingly cheap, and although lenses aren't, they do hold their value.
HTH
Andy.
- the ability to change lenses means not only a much wider choice of focal lengths, but also the ability to use macro lenses, extension tubes, teleconverters, image stabilised optics and other accessories. You can also use fisheye lenses and ultra-wide apertures for shallow DoF. It's not all about zooming!
- you get a wider range of apertures and shutter speeds available.
- the larger sensor means you get better DoF control - everything doesn't have to be in focus. You get very low noise levels too.
- you can use the complete range of flashes, remote release cables and other toys. Studio work becomes possible.
You also get the 'feel' of a real SLR - manual control is quick and easy, and you have a proper sharp optical viewfinder. The batteries last ages too.
The best bit is that s/h D30s are now depressingly cheap, and although lenses aren't, they do hold their value.
HTH
Andy.
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