Diablo

Been thinking of upgrading from my EOS 300 for a while now and looking at(and had a play with)the following:-

Canon EOS 30 body

Battery pack (more for centre of gravity, balance and grip

Canon EF28-105 f3.5-4.5 II USM

Canon EF100-300mm f4.5-5.6USM or more probably 75-300mm image stabalised f4-5.6 USM

UV filters and lense hoods (of course )

The lenses are one step up from the standard (and a bit lightwight IMO) Canon EF lenses, less plastic, more glass in the optics giving noticably less grainey image, but still not too pricey.

The package seems pretty good to me for all round photography (used to be a hobby and getting back into it now). Any thoughts or comments would be welcome.

Cheers

D

Sigmund

I dunno about the EOS 30, I have a EOS5 and I think that's about as low as you would go for real quality, but it depends on the use off course.

Read nice things about the 28-105, thinking about it myself. I have the 100-300mm. I think the 75-300 with IS would be a much better buy. Better quality pics. Only thing going for the 100-300 is better build (less plastic) but don't let that put you off the IS.

I have: EOS 5, EF 50mm-F1.4USM and 100-300 F4.5-5.6

Diablo

Sigmund,

Yeah, the 28-105 is a really nice bit of kit.

The 30 replaces the 5 and is supposed to be a little better. For price in UK its hard to beat.

The IS lense is the high quality version - similar bild to the 100-300, not the lighter build of the lower spec lenses.

Anyone else?

alistair

I've got an EOS5, but went for the 35-135 4-5.6 which works better for me as I don't really use the extreme wide angle and that little bit of extra zoom was worth the trade off as I can't be ar5ed to carry extra lenses about.

AWD

I thought that the EOS 30 repaced the EOS 50E.

The EOS 3 replaced the EOS 5 didn't it?

AWD

btw the EOS30 is a great camera according to everything I've read about it.

I'm considering it myself actually.

I can post you out a photocopy of a review if you like. Let me know.

[This message has been edited by AWD (edited 27 March 2001).]

Hoppy

Diablo, nice outfit

But forget the UV filters. There's no way any UV is going to get through all that glass and you're just adding two more air/glass surfaces, right at the front of the lens, to create flare. As for physical protection, just take care. Modern lens coatings are tougher than they were and most marks should wipe off. A decent lens hood should be used at all times for optimum colour saturation, they also protect the lens quite well. If you want to pep up your pictures, try a polarising filter.

The lens has no influence on image 'grain' which is entirely down to the film emulsion.

Happy snapping,

Richard

PS Most people have trouble holding a lens steady over 200mm or so. A monopod is very easy to use and can dramatically improve sharpness.

[This message has been edited by Hoppy (edited 27 March 2001).]

davefromevonet

nice kit!!
imo its always wise to get yourself a decent prime lense to compliment your set-35 or 50 with widest aperture you can afford.
My 50/1.4 gets a lotta use-can help fend off a lot of shake,many a pic ruined at 60th on a zoom.

ps dont agree ref the Uv filter.Uv and Skylight do the same thing(one is really for colour and the other B&W)-they both will protect the lense,its cheaper to replace a filter than buy a new lense!!

Agree re the long lense and camera shake though.Monopod defo worth getting but dont even think about using a polariser at 200 mm-unless you have the reflexes of Bruce Lee!!

Best film around at the mo fuji 800 imo.See lots of "learners" using 100/200 and there is absolutely no need for 99% of pics.With the tele zoom the best chance of avoiding shake is using the 800 and using manual exposure override to get 1/500-if there is enough light.

I use the 400 nearly all the time and even overcast i can get 125th at F8-where the lense is at its best.Sunny day im at shake free 1/500.Greta films the fujis!!!!!

[This message has been edited by davefromevonet (edited 27 March 2001).]

Luke

Davefromevonet

Good info on "FUJI" . I have stated before how good their films are.
In good light do you find any difference(Using 28-105 Sigma 2.8-4) between 200-400asa If prints are 10 x 8 inch max???

Open house for answers."Fuji" reccon NO

davefromevonet

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Luke:
<B>Davefromevonet

Good info on "FUJI" . I have stated before how good their films are.
In good light do you find any difference(Using 28-105 Sigma 2.8-4) between 200-400asa If prints are 10 x 8 inch max???

Open house for answers."Fuji" reccon NO

[/quote]

highly doubt it.The main diff would be the extra stop,which at the long end of the lense could help reduce shake.At 10x8, the biggest factors are most likely shake and processing.I stick with Club 35-never been disappointed.

Ill say again,the Fuji 800 is faultless imo!!

DIGGY

For film purchase try here

Diablo

Cheers for the responses.

Happy, yup, I appreciate the lense has no effect on print grain (unless its fogged), what I meant was that the viewfinder "view" was much clearer with the higher quality lenses.

AWD, cheers for the offer, read loads of reviews!!

D