More weight reduction
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More weight reduction
A while ago I posted that I was having brake problems; anyway all new pads fitted, new rear discs, calipers checked, lines checked etc etc, couldn't find a problem so narrowed it down to the ABS - drastic I know but I decided to bin the offending item and thanks to Stevefastbikes we got this cracked last weekend
Started by getting all of the bits together...
And then to start, rip out the pump
We thought this would be an afternoon's work having found a noddy guide that meant we'd need bend a couple of pipes, put some tees in and mount the bias valve under the bonnet. After some discussion we decided to do it properly so off to the near motor factor for a length of copper brake lines and lots of scrabbling around for spare unions, bolts etc and we ripped out all but one short length of the original line that ran through the bulkhead. The front and rear tees were mounted centrally to equalise pressure across the axel...
and then they were coupled to all new brake line running from the master cylinder...
to the wheels...
Clearly for the rear they had to go via a bias valve which we now decided to mount in the car but we couldn't decide where and eventually agreed on the seat mount - it is really conveniently position for easy adjustment whilst strapped-in
The copper lines are fine for now as the seat is fixed, but in due course I'm going to get some braided lines made up so I can fit the seat runners
When bleeding the brakes Steve noted how much the master cylinder was flexing the bulkhead so, thanks to KennyC, I now have a brake stopper. No slate on Kenny as it was brand new as he described, but the quality of the Tegiwa kit is quite poor with the welds coming away on one of the nuts, and TBH it's not the best quality weld.
But it's fitted...
With the complete bleed the brakes feel spot-on and much more direct now te ABS has gone, just need to look at ripping the loom out and sorting the dash light
Started by getting all of the bits together...
And then to start, rip out the pump
We thought this would be an afternoon's work having found a noddy guide that meant we'd need bend a couple of pipes, put some tees in and mount the bias valve under the bonnet. After some discussion we decided to do it properly so off to the near motor factor for a length of copper brake lines and lots of scrabbling around for spare unions, bolts etc and we ripped out all but one short length of the original line that ran through the bulkhead. The front and rear tees were mounted centrally to equalise pressure across the axel...
and then they were coupled to all new brake line running from the master cylinder...
to the wheels...
Clearly for the rear they had to go via a bias valve which we now decided to mount in the car but we couldn't decide where and eventually agreed on the seat mount - it is really conveniently position for easy adjustment whilst strapped-in
The copper lines are fine for now as the seat is fixed, but in due course I'm going to get some braided lines made up so I can fit the seat runners
When bleeding the brakes Steve noted how much the master cylinder was flexing the bulkhead so, thanks to KennyC, I now have a brake stopper. No slate on Kenny as it was brand new as he described, but the quality of the Tegiwa kit is quite poor with the welds coming away on one of the nuts, and TBH it's not the best quality weld.
But it's fitted...
With the complete bleed the brakes feel spot-on and much more direct now te ABS has gone, just need to look at ripping the loom out and sorting the dash light
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Forgot to mention, that Saturday afternoon job started at 2pm on Saturday and Finished about 8pm Sunday - never again, but a big thanks again to Steve for his help and the use of the workshop, oh and helicoiling my front caliper mount
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I'm going shotgun with someone while I sort out the gearbox - it'll stop but not going so well yet, still gearbox to sort and then on with the VF34
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The brake stopper is fixed to the strut and then clamps to the end of the master cylinder - this should increase structural rigidity and reduce the bulk-head flex when you stamp on the stop pedal and therefore improve the pedal feel. Once the ABS was gone the pedal felt more positive anyway but I haven't been out since fitting the stopper. Can't say I've pushed the car to the limits to test the front to rear bias as I'm still bedding in the new pads and discs, but the main difference will be on track when I decide how much I want the rear to come around rather than follow the front when cornering
Last edited by JonMc; 07 September 2012 at 05:39 PM.
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It all depends what you want it for - mine is predominantly a toy with a view to some track time and used on the road infrequently (when I get the right job again) so for me it's right and the brakes (Brembo upgrade to my WRX) feel more connected if you get my drift
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On some stretches of road where the ABS used to be quite intrusive because of the uneven surface and random ABS activation when hitting ripples in the road under braking has gone and I have much more confidence in the car at these points. There was enough weight transfer to trip the ABS but not to break traction so the braking is much more positive
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Cheers Marty, it was a team effort with Stevefastbikes. A couple more bits to do which I'll be sorting next month when the car gets taxed and ready for its MOT