Fitted my depo 4 in 1 gauge with the help of my mate who has just recently done his.

This gauge monitors boost, oil pressure , temp and also volts.

I am very pleased with it

 

looking good

 

That's a very nice job there Pete looks ace

 

I like that where u get it from. Looks really good mate

 

Very nice mate
How hard was it to do??

 

Greedy ******

 

Tidy job, just need matching oil pressure and temp in the centre vents

 

That is a tidy job done mate, the gauge is a neat bit of kit

 

look's awesome mate good job

 

Neat work

 

Love it. That's the one I want to get but can't decide whether to mount where you did or on steering column in front of side light switch.?. How did you fix it in the vent?

 

really like that, can you write a "how to" for it ??

 

+1 loving that m8 write up would be nice :-)

 

Hi

That look real nice, Jura told be about the thread (good fella) it looks the mutz nutz where did you get the fitting kit to fix it into the vent ?

Rich

 

Thanks for the comments, I have fitted gauges before but not in this position in the air vent so had a lot of help from my mate StevoT2000 who had done the job on his a week before, cheers for that!

After searching the net, UK, US and Australian Subaru forums there are sporadic pockets of information relating to fitting this vent in the air vent but nothing all in one place. So after being guided by StevoT2000 on fitting into the air vent I am in a position to give you a rundown of what is involved when fitting this gauge. I don’t have a lot of pictures but hopefully this will serve as a written reference for others.

The Gauge
This was purchased from http://www.elise-shop.com/high-preci...-p-502177.html for roughly £94 delivered, it wasn’t advertised as the Depo item but to my surprise both StevoT2000 and I received the Depo item. It came complete with all the required sensors which are; Boost pipe, T-piece and control box. Oil Pressure sensor and Oil Temperature sensor.

Oil Pressure - It’s worth noting that the sensor fittings are 1/8 NPT , the Pressure sensor thread on the block is 1/8 BSPT, I have read various articles on the net about using PTFE to ensure a correct seal HOWEVER I didn’t risk mating NPT to BSPT therefore I bought the required LMA remote oil pressure adaptor(SUB-0951300) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...E:L:OC:GB:3160

Oil Temperature – This was fitted above number 3 cylinder using the LMA adaptor (M18x1.5 part number SUB 067) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...E:L:OC:GB:3160

I purchased both the Oil adaptors from Demon Tweeks (via eBay) as I was initially toying with the idea of mating the pressure sensor up NPT to BSPT therefore would not need the remote oil pressure adaptor, however I scrapped this idea and bought the correct remote oil pressure adaptor the day after (LMA SUB-0951300)

Engine Sensor fitting
This detailed “how to” was followed on how to do the Boost, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure type of things;
https://www.scoobynet.com/interior-1...and-boost.html

I used PTFE on every joint, be careful when screwing these into the block (oil pressure) and into the adaptor on number 3 cylinder. You can always go back and tighten if they weep oil when running. I was very careful and suffered no weeping of oil.

Power supply for Gauge
This was taken from the dashboard clock and not the cigarette lighter as it offered a more convenient location for the running of the wires, everything you need is here too. Using this method allows you to alternate between white and amber illumination by using the bright switch on the headlights.

Gaining access to the air vent
Various methods on the net (in fact all) reference the need to damage / cut things in order to achieve this fitting of the gauge, I managed to do this without damaging anything meaning the air vent COULD be replaced as it was prior to fitting (with the help of a little Ghetto style modifications!)

Step 1- Remove the plastic strip which sits under the steering wheel. This is secured with 3 x Philips screws, one next to the bonnet release catch, the other at the opposite end next to the centre console. The final one is seen from opening the driver’s side door.

Pull this down and there will be multiple wires running to the back of this strip (fog lights etc) unclip these and move the strip out of the way. You will need a torch here to shine up towards the air vent the illuminate the necessary screws.

Remove the screws which hold the rear of the vent ball onto the dashboard. I think from memory there are 4 in total.

Step 2 – From looking at the top of the dashboard remove the oblong shaped air vent which sits under the windscreen. Shine a torch in here towards the vent and you will see the final screw you need to remove. THIS IS THE ONE THAT IS A BIT OF A PAIN! I managed this with a small ratchet with an extension, it won’t sit 100% correct into the screw head but take your time (it isn’t tight) and you will loosen it off.

Step 3- The vent can be removed from the rear of the dashboard and out from the foot well area. The air tunnel running to the rear of the vent will need to be forced upward while you pull the vent downwards. Take your time and nothing will be damaged.

Step 4 – As the air vent will no longer be functional it needs to be sealed up to prevent moisture etc. being forced onto the rear of the gauge. I did this with Duct tape.



Step 5 – Remove the front silver surround which sits around the air vent. Use a flat headed screwdriver (cover it in insulation tape to prevent damage to the dash) at the 3 o’clock position and I managed to ease it out.

Now that is all removed put the vent to one side, all you need here is the front silver vent surround for the fitment of the gauge.



Securing the gauge into the vent (Ghetto mod warning!)
You will notice that even with a 60mm gauge there is a 5mm gap between that and the air vent surround which needs to be filled. I achieved this by using insulation tape, it takes a while but be neat and it will look (surprisingly) good once it’s done.



The trick here is to continually trial fit the gauge into the surround until it is a very snug fit. I initially put slightly too much on, but by removing 1 turn at a time I managed to get the fit I was looking for.



I was surprised how secure the gauge is inside the surround using this method, you can shake and move it around and it won’t budge. I secured this further by using tape around the edge too; finally as a bit of a “just in case” I used some 15lb fishing line which secured this from the rear, I used the small bolts on the rear to secure the line. This is a real Ghetto mod as they call it but it does the trick without having to cut & reuse the air vent in some way. This is only one option but many other methods could be used.

Here is the finished article



Hope this helps others to do the same modification. Any questions just fire away.

 

Good write up mate, will be attempting this soon!
Cheers

 

+1

 

Good write up that mate

 

Looks.very good like the gauge

 

Cheers

 

Top Job mate!

 

Good stuff. Neat and functional and saves scanning 4 different gauges

 

Yes it is, nice and visible too. I can recommend this gauge

 

Hi

Bought one of these gauges from Elise-shop arrived quickly, please with the look and service from them.

Because I could, I check how accurate the gauge is.

Boost gauge
Injected indicated
-0.80bar -0.82bar
-0.60bar -0.61bar
-0.40bar -0.41bar
-0.20bar -0.20bar
0.00bar 0.00bar
0.50bar 0.56bar
1.00bar 1.09bar
1.50bar 1.60bar
1.90bar 2.00bar

Pressure indicator
Injected indicated
0.0bar 0.0bar
1.0bar 1.0bar
2.0bar 2.1bar
3.0bar 3.1bar
4.0bar 4.1bar
5.0bar 5.2bar
6.0bar 6.2bar
7.0bar 7.2bar
8.0bar 8.3bar
9.0bar 9.3bar

Temperature indicator
Injected indicated
20 degrees C 21 degrees C
30 degrees C 31 degrees C
40 degrees C 42 degrees C
50 degrees C 53 degrees C
60 degrees C 64 degrees C
70 degrees C 76 degrees C
80 degrees C 86 degrees C
90 degrees C 96 degrees C

Voltage indication is reading 0.1volt high at all values.

I was slightly disappointed, but not surprise about how far out this is, but for a 4-in 1 gauge for under £100 you are not going to get a very accurate gauge. As long as you use it with this knowledge and don't take the readings as gospel it should be OK to use. I intend to use mine to monitor any changes in the parameters when driving.

Cheers

 

so if you cant count on an accurate reading why are people buying them, Defi's are the way forward

 

Has anybody independently check Defi's instruments against a calibrated source?

 

How did you carry out these checks out of interest?

Interesting work, it would be good to do something similar with defis - although there is a big ££££ difference between the 2 brands.

 

No idea mate, all I meant was that they are regarded as the best on the market so I would like to hope that they are most accurate out there. Would be nice to see a comparison though.

Oh and that was in no way meant as a knock on the fitting of this gauge as it looks top notch

 

I am an instrument technician and I work calibrate instruments most days; we use high quality test equipment (tolerance 0.25%). The pressures are done by using a calibrated pressure source. The temperature is done by immersing the temperature probe in a water bath, with the temperature again being monitored by a calibrated meter (the temperature check takes the longest to do) and the voltage again by a calibrated meter. All our test equipment is checked annually.

I would like to think that you get what you pay for.


Yes I agree, I don't want to buy one just tho check though!

Like I said earlier, just use it to monitor any changes from the normal value.