light bulbs keep blowing
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Won't make any difference bud. The purpose of a fuse is only to limit EXCESS current flowing if a fault develops.
A 60W headlight bulb, for example, draws 5Amps on a 12V supply.
Because it draws slightly more for fraction of a second as the bulb filament heats up, the lowest fuse for it would be 7.5A.
But if you put 7.5A or 75A fuses in, it still draws only 5A.
A 60W headlight bulb, for example, draws 5Amps on a 12V supply.
Because it draws slightly more for fraction of a second as the bulb filament heats up, the lowest fuse for it would be 7.5A.
But if you put 7.5A or 75A fuses in, it still draws only 5A.
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#9
As above, Don't touch the bulb when fitting, any cracks in the lights letting moisture in?
Have problems with our work vans as our garage uses cheapo bulbs, headlights are ok but all other bulbs regularly blow.
Have problems with our work vans as our garage uses cheapo bulbs, headlights are ok but all other bulbs regularly blow.
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Somtimes the bulb can tell you why it blew.
If the glass has gone milky or has a texture to it - water/moisture has got into the fitting. Or someone has touched the glass on the bulb (the oils from your skin cause the glass to fracture when it heats up)
If its black, there is a lack of halogen gas which has caused the metal of the filament to burn off and deposit on the glass. With halogen bulbs, it should re-deposit on the filament. Non halogen bulbs also do this, and thats normal, but can be made worse if the voltage is too high.
If the filament has fell apart at each end of the holder, then this is from "necking" and is a quality issue with the bulb or its operating at too high or too low a voltage...cheap "ultra bright" extra output bulbs can fail early like this as they use thinner filaments to give a brighter light. All filaments fail this way eventually, but obviously they should last for years, not months.
Also dirty/old/corroded bulb connectors can cause bad contact which then generate lots of heat at the base of the bulb and caase it to fail by metling the internal solder joints behind the cap, and possibly melt the connector and wiring too.
If the glass has gone milky or has a texture to it - water/moisture has got into the fitting. Or someone has touched the glass on the bulb (the oils from your skin cause the glass to fracture when it heats up)
If its black, there is a lack of halogen gas which has caused the metal of the filament to burn off and deposit on the glass. With halogen bulbs, it should re-deposit on the filament. Non halogen bulbs also do this, and thats normal, but can be made worse if the voltage is too high.
If the filament has fell apart at each end of the holder, then this is from "necking" and is a quality issue with the bulb or its operating at too high or too low a voltage...cheap "ultra bright" extra output bulbs can fail early like this as they use thinner filaments to give a brighter light. All filaments fail this way eventually, but obviously they should last for years, not months.
Also dirty/old/corroded bulb connectors can cause bad contact which then generate lots of heat at the base of the bulb and caase it to fail by metling the internal solder joints behind the cap, and possibly melt the connector and wiring too.
Last edited by ALi-B; 22 January 2014 at 11:09 PM.
#15
Check headlamps are mounted securely, and the bulb holders, if they are loose, vibrations whilst bulbs are lit could make them burn out.
Check your earths, if bad it could draw more current, and burn them out.
Check main switch, is it high resistance across terminals when in on position? - will draw higher current...
Get alternator output checked ASAP - if over voltage, it can kill your battery too.
Check your earths, if bad it could draw more current, and burn them out.
Check main switch, is it high resistance across terminals when in on position? - will draw higher current...
Get alternator output checked ASAP - if over voltage, it can kill your battery too.
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jonnyboy82
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29 September 2015 01:59 PM