Has Anyone...............
03 March 2011, 10:34 PM
#1
Has Anyone...............
Fitted the bugeye UK300 headlights onto a bugeye STI and got the adjustable headlight motor to work?
I have an MY01 STI JDM and fitted the UK300 headlights a few years ago but the plugs on the cars loom dont match the motor and also there are a different number of pins.
Its buged the hell out of me these not working.
I have an MY01 STI JDM and fitted the UK300 headlights a few years ago but the plugs on the cars loom dont match the motor and also there are a different number of pins.
Its buged the hell out of me these not working.
04 March 2011, 07:35 PM
#4
http://forums.nasioc.org/forums/show...=262151&page=3 This might help? ive got a wrx diagram somwhere which if i remember is a 4 pin switch going to a 3 pin motor will see if i can fin it.
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05 March 2011, 03:49 PM
#8
http://forums.nasioc.org/forums/show....php?t=1891595 thats a diagram for a later model which is the same apart from a extra live feed to the switch. I wired a i/c system to my bugeye today and multi metered my levellers and this is what ive got.On the switch the top terminal is a black earth,the next down is the power feed red/with a stripe cant remember colour lol.Third down is purple for the light in the switch,and the 4th down is black which is the variable power feed to the leveller (this reads as a resisted earth with switch not connected).On the leveller top is black earth,next down is the feed from the switch red/green stripe,and third down is power supply white/red stripe.Ps if you go to take readings of yours with a meter,you need the headlights on with engine running. john
Last edited by bugeyejohn; 05 March 2011 at 05:12 PM.
05 March 2011, 04:16 PM
#9
From memory they run differently the 4 pin & 6 pin switches, In reality it is easier to do a 4 pin as i think they use different voltage for different positions on the lights, You would get the live from near the fuse box in the car, Then run 3 additional wires from the remaining pins on the switch to the headlight leveler on the headlights and run another set off the ones you have just fitted, so another 3 wires to do the passenger light, Pretty simple really just cant remember off the top of my head which wires/colours go to which pins but you get the genral idea, I got all my info off nasoic too but it was about 3 years ago now.
05 March 2011, 04:25 PM
#10
From memory they run differently the 4 pin & 6 pin switches, In reality it is easier to do a 4 pin as i think they use different voltage for different positions on the lights, You would get the live from near the fuse box in the car, Then run 3 additional wires from the remaining pins on the switch to the headlight leveler on the headlights and run another set off the ones you have just fitted, so another 3 wires to do the passenger light, Pretty simple really just cant remember off the top of my head which wires/colours go to which pins but you get the genral idea, I got all my info off nasoic too but it was about 3 years ago now.
06 March 2011, 09:27 PM
#12
Not sure about the 6 pin switch ?? but the 4 pin i have is numbered 0 to 3. Id proberly use one of them i know they have built in resisters to work the 3 pin leveller.If you dont want to trace the wires from the switch to the levellers id earth the motor on the inner wing and give it a live feed of the headlight,then send the control wire into the car to the switch.The other 3 wires for the switch ie earth, live, and switch bulb, id take of the wires already there on your old switch. john
06 March 2011, 10:06 PM
#14
Thats right its a real small square connector with 4 vertical pins , the only real way of testing is to connect it up through the switch as its controlled by different amounts of voltage going to the leveller motor centre pin.I suppose you could make a mini harness at the front of the car to test.
06 March 2011, 10:22 PM
#15
Ive just thought it might be possible to test the motors by giving them the earth/12v live on the end terminals and then giving the centre terminal 12v this would tip the bulb them from high to low.will check my centre pin on the motor receives a 12v current to make sure its safe.
Last edited by bugeyejohn; 06 March 2011 at 10:29 PM.
07 March 2011, 09:36 PM
#16
Im afraid the only way appears to be wire it up with the switch.The voltage has a range of 0v up to 9.6v not as high as 12v. Im pretty sure the leveller motor has resisters built in as well,so if the wrong voltage is sent to them they get cooked.
