lamco dials
#1
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lamco dials
i have just bought a set of lamcos dials. boost,volts and what i think is oil temp. on the back is a nice block connector that goes nicely into the cars wiring loom
however there are 2 white wires comin from the temp gauge
on the car side of the loom is a different connector with 1 black and 1 white wire.
the temp gauge jumped to 45 when i placed one of the 2 white wires in either of the black/white connections and does nothing with the second white wire
anybody ideas on what the black/white connector is for or where the 2 white wires from gauge go
and........
if i have no spare connector on my manifold for a boost gauge pipe do i just t-piece off of the recirc pipe
however there are 2 white wires comin from the temp gauge
on the car side of the loom is a different connector with 1 black and 1 white wire.
the temp gauge jumped to 45 when i placed one of the 2 white wires in either of the black/white connections and does nothing with the second white wire
anybody ideas on what the black/white connector is for or where the 2 white wires from gauge go
and........
if i have no spare connector on my manifold for a boost gauge pipe do i just t-piece off of the recirc pipe
Last edited by greendragonkungfu; 27 January 2011 at 12:35 PM. Reason: more questions, lol.
#2
is it definitely oil temp and not outside temp? if its oil temp/air temp then the sender wont be on your car it will be left on the car the gauges have come from, the lamco gauges only work with the lamco sender units and the sender unit would have connected by the bullet connectors on the gauges loom.
#3
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My thoughts, exactly.
You'll need to source the sender, which will connect to the two white wires. Ask the seller?
As for boost, if it's electrical, did you get the piece of kit that converts the pressure to a voltage, to connect to?
On mine, the boost gauge has a rubber tube which goes to an unused nipple on the front of the inlet manifold. It HAD a rubber cover on it.
You'll need to source the sender, which will connect to the two white wires. Ask the seller?
As for boost, if it's electrical, did you get the piece of kit that converts the pressure to a voltage, to connect to?
On mine, the boost gauge has a rubber tube which goes to an unused nipple on the front of the inlet manifold. It HAD a rubber cover on it.
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after rooting around on the interweb i have found out it should be the oil temp and it uses a sump plug sender (the -20 to +50c or -4f to 122f gauge)
http://www.type-ra.co.uk/vB/showthread.php?t=9791
boost gauge is sorted, got no spare nipples on my manifold tho, all three being used? so iv t'd off from the recirc pipe. pulling 0.8 on full boost.
so then. gonna try source a sender from subaru tomorrow.
http://www.type-ra.co.uk/vB/showthread.php?t=9791
boost gauge is sorted, got no spare nipples on my manifold tho, all three being used? so iv t'd off from the recirc pipe. pulling 0.8 on full boost.
so then. gonna try source a sender from subaru tomorrow.
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that will be why i have a wire running down to the bottom of my car then , not removed it yet as just stuffed the wire down by the battery
if you struggle to source one , give me a shout
if you struggle to source one , give me a shout
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jus got off phone to subaru dealer and they can only go back in the records to 1999 and cant find owt. im thinking these dials were out before that. so im probably in the market for a lamco sump plug sensor and wiring. just waiting for the breaker who i bought dials off to get back to me.
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have jus got a message from the breaker, the sender was sold with the engine.
so then. i now need a sender/wiring to fit a lamco oil temp gauge that reads -20 to +50C which should go to the sump plug as standard.
and some interwebbing later........
i need a h5010fc025 temp sensor and an h5010fc026 temp cord. i shall retry subaru in the morrow.
so then. i now need a sender/wiring to fit a lamco oil temp gauge that reads -20 to +50C which should go to the sump plug as standard.
and some interwebbing later........
i need a h5010fc025 temp sensor and an h5010fc026 temp cord. i shall retry subaru in the morrow.
Last edited by greendragonkungfu; 27 January 2011 at 05:52 PM.
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so ive managed to get a price off subaru for the temp sensor. a bargain 104+vat, theres none in stock in the uk and may take 4 weeks to ship from japan. waiting on roger clark to get back to me.
Last edited by greendragonkungfu; 01 February 2011 at 04:33 PM. Reason: oops
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after rooting around on the interweb i have found out it should be the oil temp and it uses a sump plug sender (the -20 to +50c or -4f to 122f gauge)
http://www.type-ra.co.uk/vB/showthread.php?t=9791
http://www.type-ra.co.uk/vB/showthread.php?t=9791
If you look at page 10 on your link it shows the range of the oil temp gauge as 50C to 150C.
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I've got a wiring diagram for the lamco's if anyone need it
Volt Meter
Yellow = Lights 12v+
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
Black = Earth
Oil Temp Guage
Yellow = Lights 12v+
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
Blue/White = Earthed AND connected to Blue/White on Black Box
White = Temp Sensor
Oil Temp Sensor
White = Temp Guage Signal
Black = Earth
Oil Pressure Guage
Yellow = Lights 12v+
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
White = White on the black box
Blue/White = Earth AND connected to Blue/White on black box
Oil Pressure Sensor
Blue = Blue on black box
Yellow = White on black box
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
Black = Black in the black box
The extra Black wire that runs with the oil pressure sensor loom connects to the wire that WAS connected to your old factory oil pressure switch. The other end of the black wire connects to the black wire in the black box. This is the bit that makes your ECU think the original pressure switch is still connected so it doesn't throw up a fault code.
Clear as mud???
Volt Meter
Yellow = Lights 12v+
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
Black = Earth
Oil Temp Guage
Yellow = Lights 12v+
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
Blue/White = Earthed AND connected to Blue/White on Black Box
White = Temp Sensor
Oil Temp Sensor
White = Temp Guage Signal
Black = Earth
Oil Pressure Guage
Yellow = Lights 12v+
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
White = White on the black box
Blue/White = Earth AND connected to Blue/White on black box
Oil Pressure Sensor
Blue = Blue on black box
Yellow = White on black box
Red = 12v+ (switched ignition)
Black = Black in the black box
The extra Black wire that runs with the oil pressure sensor loom connects to the wire that WAS connected to your old factory oil pressure switch. The other end of the black wire connects to the black wire in the black box. This is the bit that makes your ECU think the original pressure switch is still connected so it doesn't throw up a fault code.
Clear as mud???
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holy thread resurrection batman....
its an extreme long shot but do any of you guys out there have the correct sender/sensor and wiring for the oil temp lamco gauge
I read that one or two of you still had it on your cars..as stated its a long shot but I'm trying my hardest to find one to no avail at the moment
its an extreme long shot but do any of you guys out there have the correct sender/sensor and wiring for the oil temp lamco gauge
I read that one or two of you still had it on your cars..as stated its a long shot but I'm trying my hardest to find one to no avail at the moment
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I'm in a similar situation - got the gauge cluster (Volt, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure) but not the sump temperature sender.
Somewhere on rs25 there's a big post that recons it has the oil temperature sensor sussed, and that a Defi sensor is a direct replacement...
So I ordered one from America, the "correct" item, it not being up for grabs in the UK - and duly paid import duty and the effin' £8 handling fee when it landed in the country. However, I'm the thorougher/suspicious type and decided to test the sender with a cup of (what once was) boiling water and a fairly accurate digital thermometer - the results were less than inspiring. With the sender hooked up the the gauge a water temperature of 85C at the thermometer showed 60C on the gauge; 65C showed 50C.
I was not a happy puppy, the internet had lied to me! How dare it!
A cup of (what was once again, once) boiling water, the sender, the digital thermometer, and a multi-meter gave me a temp/resistance curve of approximately;
50C = 4K17Ω
55C = 3K5Ω
60C = 3K15Ω
65C = 2K565Ω
70C = 2K2Ω
75C = 1K9Ω
80C = 1K7Ω
85C = 1K5Ω
After that I took a slide pot and multi-meter to the gauge and got input/output of approximately;
50C = 2K7Ω
60C = 1K75Ω
70C = 1K2Ω
80C = 0K87Ω
90C = 0K65Ω
100C = 0K5Ω
110C = 0K4Ω
120C = 0K3Ω
130C = 0K24Ω
140C = 0K185Ω
150 = 0K140Ω
Whilst there isn't a massive overlap in temperatures tested, it's easy to see that the two do not match at all, perticularly at the low/mid temperature area, which is the most important for those of us trying to avoid putting too much stress on a cold engine.
I've just received a Subaru OE sender which I'm going to put through the same passes as the Defi one, and whichever is better (I don't expect the Subaru OE to be a perfect match) will get a balance resistor in parallel to make the "best" curve possible.
I'll either update here, or make a whole new thread about it. And I'll tag a comment onto the end of the rs25 topic, 'cause if anyone's relying on the defi sender hooked up to lamco gauges to let them know when they can push their engine hard, then they're looking at a spot of bother...
Somewhere on rs25 there's a big post that recons it has the oil temperature sensor sussed, and that a Defi sensor is a direct replacement...
So I ordered one from America, the "correct" item, it not being up for grabs in the UK - and duly paid import duty and the effin' £8 handling fee when it landed in the country. However, I'm the thorougher/suspicious type and decided to test the sender with a cup of (what once was) boiling water and a fairly accurate digital thermometer - the results were less than inspiring. With the sender hooked up the the gauge a water temperature of 85C at the thermometer showed 60C on the gauge; 65C showed 50C.
I was not a happy puppy, the internet had lied to me! How dare it!
A cup of (what was once again, once) boiling water, the sender, the digital thermometer, and a multi-meter gave me a temp/resistance curve of approximately;
50C = 4K17Ω
55C = 3K5Ω
60C = 3K15Ω
65C = 2K565Ω
70C = 2K2Ω
75C = 1K9Ω
80C = 1K7Ω
85C = 1K5Ω
After that I took a slide pot and multi-meter to the gauge and got input/output of approximately;
50C = 2K7Ω
60C = 1K75Ω
70C = 1K2Ω
80C = 0K87Ω
90C = 0K65Ω
100C = 0K5Ω
110C = 0K4Ω
120C = 0K3Ω
130C = 0K24Ω
140C = 0K185Ω
150 = 0K140Ω
Whilst there isn't a massive overlap in temperatures tested, it's easy to see that the two do not match at all, perticularly at the low/mid temperature area, which is the most important for those of us trying to avoid putting too much stress on a cold engine.
I've just received a Subaru OE sender which I'm going to put through the same passes as the Defi one, and whichever is better (I don't expect the Subaru OE to be a perfect match) will get a balance resistor in parallel to make the "best" curve possible.
I'll either update here, or make a whole new thread about it. And I'll tag a comment onto the end of the rs25 topic, 'cause if anyone's relying on the defi sender hooked up to lamco gauges to let them know when they can push their engine hard, then they're looking at a spot of bother...
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