Heppy1

Hi there i have a 95 sti ra that i have been doing up over the winter and went to start it other day and fuel pump isnt working...There is a clicking sort of noise coming from the brown fuel relay under dash, i removed pump to check it was working and thats fine but when u turn ignition on the pump will not prime and theres just a noise from relay. I also checked connector under seat and wired it without crimp and still no joy.Any help would be apreciated thanks

P600wrx

iTrader: (1)

when you say it's working how do you know, can you feel it buzzing, does the car start and run, if the pump has primed and you ain't started the car then the fuel pressure is right for starting the car, mine did this, it seized up after not using the car for 2 weeks while doing a heater matrix change...........

Heppy1

i took pump out and put a live to confirm it was working.Car will not start due to pump not working.I checked fuses and all seemed ok.Why would the relay be making a noise?

markjmd

iTrader: (11)

Relays click because they have mechanical contacts inside that switch from one position to another when the relay is energized and de-energized. It's not much different from flicking a switch with your finger.

To figure out your pump problem you'll need to put a test light or multimeter on the terminals where it's normally plugged in. My guess is it's not getting power, so the live is either grounded or cut, or the earth is open. A lot of people with older classics seem to report bad connectors under the rear bench, so that's probably a good place to start.

P600wrx

iTrader: (1)

is the relay buzzing/vibrating see if you can get a new relay

Heppy1

i put in another relay and same problem..buzzing/vibrating.I cut conector under back seat and joined wires.There is live at the connection for relay as tested it with test light.Any ideas why if still getting power it would be buzzing and pump not working when turn on ignition hmmmmm

markjmd

iTrader: (11)

The buzzing sound is probably the relay flicking on and off very quickly.

You don't say whether you also put a test light on the pump connector itself, but you'll definitely need to test for a short or open-circuit here, both along the positive feed back to the relay and also on the ground/earth.

You can PM me if you're not sure how to do a continuity test. or let me know what equipment you've got at your disposal (test light, multimeter or both) and I'll do my best to explain here.