Defi Gauges Help
#1
Defi Gauges Help
I have a full set of the STI Genome gauges as made by Defi.
Today on the way to work they all stoped working, just froze.
Ive checked all the wires and all seams fine.
Ive checked the power lead and I have to following, Permanent Live, Switchable Live that comes on with the ignition, Switchable live when you put on your side lights and an earth.
Any Ideas??????
Today on the way to work they all stoped working, just froze.
Ive checked all the wires and all seams fine.
Ive checked the power lead and I have to following, Permanent Live, Switchable Live that comes on with the ignition, Switchable live when you put on your side lights and an earth.
Any Ideas??????
#4
Cheers Mick
I had a m8 of mine come round with his scooby who also has these fitted.
I pluged my controler, lead from controler to my gauges and my gauges into his car and they worked.
Ok so its the power lead, Nope. I striped some of the sheathing from the earth wire and ran it stright to the cars battery. Still wont work.
Ive checked the wires for a 12v feed and have got 1 live, 1 Switch on the Ign and 1 for the lights.
Im totally stumped.
I had a m8 of mine come round with his scooby who also has these fitted.
I pluged my controler, lead from controler to my gauges and my gauges into his car and they worked.
Ok so its the power lead, Nope. I striped some of the sheathing from the earth wire and ran it stright to the cars battery. Still wont work.
Ive checked the wires for a 12v feed and have got 1 live, 1 Switch on the Ign and 1 for the lights.
Im totally stumped.
#6
I tryed that last night and they still did not work.
Had abit of a fiddle at work today to try and sort this.
Some times the red lights flash on the gauges and some Not all of the needles flicker a couple of times.
The gauges light up when I put my lights on but dont do the defi sweep when you first switch the ignition on.
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#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
And you are certain it's wired as follows:
RED: permanent live,
ORANGE: switched live from ignition, (it MUST STAY ON when ignition is on, ie: NOT be momentary, so from radio etc is good).
WHITE: Switched live from lights, (this is for lighting only).
BLACK: earth.
And that ALL the wires are connected properly, are on ALL the time thety should be, no intermittent connections etc?
If you are SURE it's not the wiring, it has to be the control box. Can you get one that DOES work and sub it in yours?
Oh, and if the control box is OK, check ALL the connectors at ALL their ends for loose wires, clips, connectors etc.
RED: permanent live,
ORANGE: switched live from ignition, (it MUST STAY ON when ignition is on, ie: NOT be momentary, so from radio etc is good).
WHITE: Switched live from lights, (this is for lighting only).
BLACK: earth.
And that ALL the wires are connected properly, are on ALL the time thety should be, no intermittent connections etc?
If you are SURE it's not the wiring, it has to be the control box. Can you get one that DOES work and sub it in yours?
Oh, and if the control box is OK, check ALL the connectors at ALL their ends for loose wires, clips, connectors etc.
#9
Hi Alcazar.
Yes I have Red Permanent Live, Orange Switch live and stays on with Ignition, White Switch live from lights and black= earth.
All wires are pushed home till they click. All wires in plugs seam fine.
I have swoped Control Units for one that I know works and my gauges still wont work.
I have put MY Control Box, and Gauges out of my car into my mates who has the same as me and mine work so the Control Box WORKS, Gauges WORK and the lead that conects the 2 WORK.
Yes I have Red Permanent Live, Orange Switch live and stays on with Ignition, White Switch live from lights and black= earth.
All wires are pushed home till they click. All wires in plugs seam fine.
I have swoped Control Units for one that I know works and my gauges still wont work.
I have put MY Control Box, and Gauges out of my car into my mates who has the same as me and mine work so the Control Box WORKS, Gauges WORK and the lead that conects the 2 WORK.
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Hi Alcazar.
Yes I have Red Permanent Live, Orange Switch live and stays on with Ignition, White Switch live from lights and black= earth.
All wires are pushed home till they click. All wires in plugs seam fine.
I have swoped Control Units for one that I know works and my gauges still wont work.
I have put MY Control Box, and Gauges out of my car into my mates who has the same as me and mine work so the Control Box WORKS, Gauges WORK and the lead that conects the 2 WORK.
Yes I have Red Permanent Live, Orange Switch live and stays on with Ignition, White Switch live from lights and black= earth.
All wires are pushed home till they click. All wires in plugs seam fine.
I have swoped Control Units for one that I know works and my gauges still wont work.
I have put MY Control Box, and Gauges out of my car into my mates who has the same as me and mine work so the Control Box WORKS, Gauges WORK and the lead that conects the 2 WORK.
I hate to labour a point, but you need to check:
Is the permanently live actually PERMANENT? ie: is it still on when the ign is turned from first to second click? Could it be intermittent? Use a multimeter/circuit tester to check.
Is the SWITCHED live on at both the first ign switch click and the second? Does it stay on? As above to check.
Next, if the above SEEM OK, use your multimeter to check that all leads are OK, ie: very low resistance end to end.
Include the earth in this.
Out of interest, where do your permanent and switched lives connect to, and how are they connected?
#11
The switched only comes live at the second click of the ignition and always did.
First click of the key nothing comes on in the car at all and has always been like that.
I have a JDM Bug STI and with these gauges being JDM ones the power lead plugs stright into the car wireing loom. there is a plug by your right foot that the power lead plugs into.
I have checked all this with a multi meter and all is fine.
First click of the key nothing comes on in the car at all and has always been like that.
I have a JDM Bug STI and with these gauges being JDM ones the power lead plugs stright into the car wireing loom. there is a plug by your right foot that the power lead plugs into.
I have checked all this with a multi meter and all is fine.
#12
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
If the gauges do not perform the opening and closing sweep, then the controller has no power or a bad earth.
I know you have checked it,but the wiring connectors are very fragile where they plug into the controller and can give intermittant problems.
If you have the Defi Controller 2 - there should be a seperate 4A inline fuse on the red 12v constant wire.
If the sensors are open/short circuit, then the gauges will still do the opening and closing sweep but not show a reading.
Hope this helps,
Mick
I know you have checked it,but the wiring connectors are very fragile where they plug into the controller and can give intermittant problems.
If you have the Defi Controller 2 - there should be a seperate 4A inline fuse on the red 12v constant wire.
If the sensors are open/short circuit, then the gauges will still do the opening and closing sweep but not show a reading.
Hope this helps,
Mick
#13
Now Then.
I think I might of found out the problem
I think its the boost sensor.
I conected every thing up abart from the boost gauge and its sensor and the rest of my sensors worked.
I then conected my boost gauge and it did its sweep thing when you switch the ignition on but reads 0 as the sensor is not conected and the rest of the gauges worked.
Then conected the sensor and non of the gauges now work.
So I think the boost sensor has gone.
are theses prone to going?
I think I might of found out the problem
I think its the boost sensor.
I conected every thing up abart from the boost gauge and its sensor and the rest of my sensors worked.
I then conected my boost gauge and it did its sweep thing when you switch the ignition on but reads 0 as the sensor is not conected and the rest of the gauges worked.
Then conected the sensor and non of the gauges now work.
So I think the boost sensor has gone.
are theses prone to going?
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