HOWY

Hi have just had a laserline 291 cat 1 alarm fitted to my new euro wrx. It comes with its own plipper which I have been told to use as if I use the open button on the key it confuese the alarm i.e sets it off when I open the door.

Does anyone know if this is poor fitting or normal. Do the UK ones have the same alarm and can you operate them with just the key?

Sigma Sam

I expect that when you operate your Laserline alarm remote the doors will lock/unlock at the same time the alarm arms/disarms (or at least it should for convenience). The problem arises if you retain the remote in the euro ignition key (2 button type) - if you press the vehicles ignition key unlock button the vehicle will unlock - probably setting the alarm off. The best solution here is to remove the batteries from the vehicles ignition key to prevent its use and getting into a mess with unlocked doors and an armed system.
UK vehicles have a Sigma system fitted as standard - the standard euro ignition key transmitter is replaced with a bespoke Sigma transmitter built into the ignition key (single button) - this avoids the need for a separate remote in additional to the bulky ignition key and also avoids the possibility of unlocking te vehicle without disarming the alarm.
In short, this aspect of your Laserline system isn't poor fitting. Unfortunately the additional remote is a necessity to meet Thatcham requirements (as the euro transmitter does not use a secure code) and this is the only way the Laserline system can provide a secure code as a universal fit system.
SS

HOWY

Would it have been possible to change the transmitter in the key for the laserline or would I have been able to specify a sigma sysem which would have been compatible with th eUk ones?

Sigma Sam

The standard Sigma transmitter was re-designed specifically for Subaru, to fit within the ignition key housing - a new top Key section was also molded with a single button.
It would not be possible to fit a standard Laserline transmitter into the Subaru ignition key and unfortunately the random code encryption used by the Sigma and Laserline systems differs, so you cannot program a Sigma transmitter to operate the Laserline system.

Your neatest option (in my opinion and to give the appearance and functionality of a UK vehicle), would have been to specify a Sigma M30 alarm system from a local Sigma dealer (not the latest S30 system, as we have not re-designed the compatible transmitter for the Subaru ignition key yet) and then to have purchased the Subaru specific Sigma transmitter that fits into the ignition key - unfortunately as a Subaru specific part it is only available from a Subaru dealer (part number SACC3507 - comes complete with the new single button housing).
The existing Subaru euro transmitter could then be removed from the ignition key and discarded, replaced with the SACC3507 transmitter and then programed to the Sigma M30 system - replacing the standard separate Sigma transmitter that would have been supplied with the alarm system.
The new SACC3507 transmitter can be programmed into the alarm system yourself, using the overide keypad that is supplied with the M30 or by your Subaru or Sigma dealer.

All a little late now I know, but if anyone else is reading.....or maybe for your next Impreza!
SS

HOWY

Yes pity I wasn't told this by the importer who arranged for the alarm to be fitted. How much is the appropriate sigma alarm when fitted?

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

Howy, according to the link below 291 is a complete cat1 alarm and immobiliser.

My car has a 270uk which is an upgrade from a std immobilser to a full cat 1 system. It uses the original key fob buttons.

The 291 has more features though:

http://www.laserlinedirect.com/features.asp

Sigma Sam

Unfortunately, the factory Subaru transponder immobiliser (whether a UK or Euro car) is not Category 2 approved, so a 2 to 1 upgrade system cannot be fitted as you do not have Category 2 to upgrade from - a full category 1 system is required with 2-circuit passive arming immobiliser.

A similar problem exists with the transmitters; the factory Subaru two button trasmitters are not ecrypted to Thatcham standard and so should not be used to switch a Category 1 alarm - your system will be susceptable to scanning and grabbing if using the original Subaru two button remote.
If you have been advised that these original Subaru two button remotes can be used, they are mis-informed and your installed system is not to Thatcham requirements.
SS

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

The car came with a certificate saying the alarm was installed to Cat1 std and showing the thatcham number for the alarm. It also has the fitters thatcham approval stamp on it.

Where do I stand ??

Sigma Sam

If, as I understand, the system fitted is a Category 2 to Category 1 upgrade, then the certificate for the alarm should also request/display the evaluation number of the existing Category 2 immobiliser that the alarm system is upgrading.
Without Category 2 approval for the immobiliser (which would be shown by its own evaluation number) you do not have a basis to upgrade to Category 1.
In short, your Category 2-1 upgrade would not be to Category 1 standard without an existing Category 2 immobiliser

I would discuss this with your installer as it could have been a genuine error, however, it should never be assumed that an immobiliser is Category 2 without confirming the system's evaluation number. This can easily be done at www.thatcham.org where listings of all approved systems can be downloaded.

SS

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

So the easiest way would be to get a complete CAT1 Alarm fitted ??

Sigma Sam

Simplest option would have been a Cat 1 for this vehicle from the outset.
Options now are:

a) Remove Cat 2-1 upgrade and fit a Cat 1
or
b) Fit a Cat 2 immobiliser (2-1 upgrade system would then be ok)

If you go with this second option, then a Cat 2 transponder immobiliser would be the most convenient option and are the most common type of immobiliser these days, but as the vehicle already has a factory transponder immobiliser fitted the two transponder systems can cause interference and reliability problems between them (due to multiple chips and antenaes) - beware!
Other types of Cat 2 immobiliser, such as touch tags, etc are not very convenient, especially as you already have a remote to press for the alarm.

I would be pushing for option a) at the expense of whoever recommended the 2-1 upgrade initially.

SS

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

Going for Option a) - at their cost. Thanks for the advice.

PS: Once the new alarm is fitted, If I remove the battery from the std key to stop inadvertent pressing, will the std immobiliser transponder still work ??

Sigma Sam

Yes, no problems there...the standard factory tranponder immobiliser will still work, it doesn't need the battery - this is only for the factory remote locking.
SS

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

Cheers for the info.

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

Sigma Sam, I have sent you a PM about this.

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

Sigma Sam

Sorry to bother you but thanks to your advice I have now got my laserline cat 2-1 upgrade alarm replaced with a full cat 1 system. (Euro Import MY05 WRX)

Only one problem remains !

When you use the laserline key fob to set the alarm it only single locks the doors - i.e. they are not deadlocked. If you use the original euro key it double locks the doors.

I have checked the wiring in the drivers footwell and the alarm fitters have connected into two wires with the wires from the alarm which lock or unlock the doors.

I think they have connected them to the wrong wires (maybe the powerlock switch wires ??) as the car is only single locking.

Can you tell me which wires/where they should connect the wires to so that I can save time when I take it back to them (AGAIN) ??

I think you said that all cars had the loom for the sigma alarm ?? Under the dash there are two green single plugs and one white multiplug which are unconnected to anything - are these for the sigma alarm ??

Any help you can give will be much appreciated as they guys who fit the alarm dont know much about Scooby's.


PS Next time I will be getting a sigma !

Sigma Sam

Glad to hear that you've managed to get things sorted with your installer.... with the possible exception of the locking.

Since the Sigma alarm loom became integrated into the vehicle harness I'm not familiar with the vehicle's wiring anymore, other than at the alarm system's multiplug, so wouldn't like to speculate as to the wires in the drivers footwell area, but thats not to say that the correct ones aren't there.

The multi plug for the Sigma alarm system is a white 20-pole connector (2x rows of 10) located in the area to the lefthand side of the glovebox when removed.

As the wiring on the vehicles has been known to change, we tend to identify wires by pin location within a connector rather than colour - if you look closely the pin numbers are moulded into the connector on the wiring harness side. If these arent visable then when holding the plug with the locking lever at the top and the wires exiting toward you the pins are 1 to 10 on the bottom row from right to left and 11 to 20 on the top row from right to left.

The lock wire can be found in pin 9 of the alarm multiplug (posibly a light green wire with a black traser and single silver dots) and the unlock wire in pin 20 (possibly a red wire with a green tracer and double silver dots) - it may be that you can confirm the wire colours in these pins and then check for them in the driver's footwell.

The standard Sigma system provides a positive pulse down these wires to the vehicles Central Door Locking unit. The vehicles CDL unit also monitors the ignition circuit and should the lock pulse from the alarm be received whilst the ignition is "on" the vehicles CDL unit singe locks, however, if the lock pulse is received and the ignition is "off" the vehicles CDL unit will dead lock.
Provided that the Laserline unit has been configured to provide positive pulses on Lock and Unlock then there is no reason why connecting the lock/unlock wires in the same way will not have the same results.

If these are the wires that the alarm is already connected to, and the system is configuered for positive lock/unlock, but still not operating correctly, then you could try unplugging the vehicles Remote CDL Receiver - this is a cream coloured unit the size of a couple of match boxes. I seem to remember that this had to be removed on the early UK cars when it was fitted (as it would be on a European car), but I think this was for pre 03MY vehicles without the deadlock feature.

Best of luck,
SS

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the information and sorry for the hassle in getting it to me.

I will have a bit of an investigate over the weekend myself.

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

The multiplug was exactly as you described and the wire colours were spot on.

The Remote CDL Receiver does need to be unplugged for a positive pulse to work.

Only problem now is I think the Laserline has been set for negative lock/unlock !!

wrxseeker

iTrader: (1)

I have now sorted this with the help of my friendly local laserline dealer.


Thanks for all your help Sigma Sam.

Taomyn

Hi SS,

I'm having to move back to the UK and I am bringing my Euro-spec WRX MY03 with me. The whole business with the alarm worries me so I'd like to get it sorted as soon as possible after I return.

Is what you have recommended above still valid?

Can you recommend a dealer I could contact in the South East (Kent or Sussex) that I could contact to organise fitting?

Cheers,
Taomyn

Sigma Sam

Sorry it's been so long, I only noticed your post today.
Yes, the above is still valid.
With regard to locating a local dealer, your best option is to give our sales line a call on 0870 4177795 - they should be able to locate a dealer for you from your post code.
SS

Mike1609

iTrader: (1)

I have an MY05 WRX Euro import that has the M30 fitted. With regards to the above i have noticed that the Euro key transmitter has 1 battery whereas the aftermarket Sigma transmitter currently has 2. Will this cause any problems with part SACC3507? Also can i swap the bonnet alarm sensor for a UK spec one?
Thanks Mike

Sigma Sam

Your quite right the SACC3507 (cap and PCB) only requires 1 lithium cell as this is already tooled into the bottom half of the ignition key housing - the Sigma PCB components are modified from those in the separate transmitter to run at this lower voltage, so there should be little difference in range. The smaller size of the cell however will reduce the total number of operations slightly.

Your current switch is likely to be drilled into a metal panel and the mounting screw provides an earth to the switch directly - the UK switch has a wire running to an existing earth point to prevent drilling of the vehicle.
The second wire on the UK switch provides the alarm with a negative input when the bonnet is raised - as will the single wire on your bonnet switch , so no need to re-wire
Part number for the bracket is SACC3532 (approx £20 from your dealer I'm afraid) and SACC3499 for the switch. A plug also connects to the bottom of the switch, but this is only available from the UK import centre - I would cut the plastic from the bottom of the switch to expose the pins and solder your wires directly on to these.

All the best,
SS

bkm

I've got a factory fitted Cat 1 alarm on my 2001 Impreza. I've mastered most of its strange features, but a couple have me stumped and are not referred to in the alarm manual.
Occasionally the alarm gives a single bleep when the ignition is turned on. It seems to relate to low outside temps. Is this the case?
When I switch off the alarm, sometimes all four indicator lights flash, but other times only the off-side ones flash! I thought is was related to whether the alarm was set with or without the internal sensors being activiated, but I'm not sure.
Anyone else had these experiences?

Sigma Sam

Most points are explained in the operating instructions, a copy of which can be found in the thread at:
http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subarutalk/viewtopic.php?t=2476


Does the single beep that you refer to occur when turning the ignition on or cranking the engine? If its actually when cranking, this is due to low battery voltage on your vehicle and a greater current draw from the starter motor when the weather is cold. The battery siren cuts in momentarily under its own power as the vehicles battery voltage falls to such a point that the battery siren thinks that the power supply has been cut to the alarm. A full triger does not occur as the siren realises the system is infact disarmed, but various chirps and bleeps will be heard when turning the engine over. This usually indicates impending vehicle battery or starter motor problems.

You will get 4 indicator flashes when arming the system, unless you have disabled the ultrasonic inerior sensors before leaving the car, when you will then get 8 indicator flashes.
If the indicators are not working intermittently on one side of the vehicle this could be down to a poor wiring connection. The output from the alarm unit's flasher relay is common to both OS and NS but split and dioded internally before emerging from the unit as separate wires.

SS

bkm

Thanks for this. It's been very helpful. Cheers.