Tim-H

Anyone here relay their headlights ?
Reason being on having a look around my 96 scoob electrics after reading the "earthing" post`s (I am an autoelectrician), Whilst there is some gain to doing it , it is a bit pointless if you do not uprate the + side aswell (mine loses 0.04v on - 0.14v on +)

I also had a look round the candles they call headlights, they would benifit substantionaly(sp) from some uprated wiring and relays, the readings are : alt voltage 14.31, lamp voltage 12.33, a drop of nearly 2 volts, this makes the % light down to %59, % efficency %75, and the wattage %79
(see www.gelighting.com/eu/specoem/hicalc.html)
Are there any kit`s available "off the shelf" ? or shall I get my soldering iron out :-)
Also were the later scoobs fitted with relays or is this a model wide flaw
Have a good one
Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Hadn't thought of this, but will get my trusty voltmeter out and try mine. If it's the same, I think a visit to Halfrauds is called for.

More than 2V drop
Alcazar

Tim-H

Thought you may reply to this one m8 :-) had read some of your other post`s ,
I will be relaying mine in the near future as I know it does make a serious diference, another funny thing is if you put higher power bulbs in the numbers get worse, due to the loading, have seen cars that have dimmer lights with big bulbs than standard lol,
If you do relay yours don`t forget to also uprate the earth to the lights right back to the battery again from the "pointless to do one side thing "
Also some bulbs will happily run with both dip and main filiment on at the same time, will have a play about and give you the difference`s when I have done it.
Have a good one
Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

If I do this, I'll probably do ONE SIDE to see if the difference is noticeable, then convert the other one.
Good tip about the earth too.

Cheers m8
Alcazar

Tim-H

no need to do that m8, either measure your voltage at between alt + pole and alt case , then on the back of the bulb , less than 0.5 v difference I wouldn`t bother, or a couple of bits of wire from the lamp to bat + and - against a white wall, will show up if it is worth it, also if you then go to big bulbs (130`s) they are in my opinion better than the silly money piaa`s I have now.(tried them in other car)
Have a good one
Tim

Tim-H

BTTT
Tim

spider

iTrader: (1)

Tim, speaking on behalf of the rest of us numpties who wouldn't know the right end of a soldering iron from the wrong end until we burnt ourselves , if you could put a little 'how to' guide together on this you'd be a top scooby fella.

Alternatively, if you put a kit together for this mod you could be a slightly better off top scooby fella!

Group buy on headlight relay/wiring kits anyone??

Cheers,
Steve
(Colour blind non-electrician!)

Bottomfeeder

Electrics and I do not go well together, I am toying with the idea of gaffa taping some torches to my wings to help my headlights out, so if an idiots guide could be put together I would be a very very happy man.
An idiots kit would probably cause me to sing and dance.....

I have added this thread to my favorites in hope

Tim-H

I will have a look about , to see what the parts are going to cost and what is available,
If I post the parts list and step by step instructions on what tools you will need and how to build the kit would that be any use to people ? or if there is enough interest I may build a few to order, failing that if you fancy a trip to herefordshire, can make tea and don`t mind standing about for a few hours, I can "hard wire" your lights for you,
Before any of the above I would suggest you test the voltage at the battery and the lights to see if it is worth doing. more than about 1/2 volt difference and it will make a difference you can see.
To test; any voltmeter that reads to 20 volts will do preferably a digital (about £5-£10 from halfrauds) measure the voltage between the alternator connection to the battery (under the rubber boot white on mine)and the case of the alternator ,mine is 14.42 v,then measure the voltage on the back of the bulb, main beam is the two opposite wires on the bulb either spike the wires or get the probes in the back of the holder, the light must be connected and you must test between both for correct results, my light reads 12.74 v (different from last week ? hmmm)nearly 2v difference owww :-)
Have a good one
Tim

Bottomfeeder

If you see a puff of blue smoke on the horizon and swear you can hear profanities faintly on the breeze, then that was me testing my voltage

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

<<<If you see a puff of blue smoke on the horizon and swear you can hear profanities faintly on the breeze, then that was me testing my voltage>>.

Bl**dy hell....coffee all over the keyboard again:
Alcazar

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Just had a look at a decent site for bits: I reckon a kit could be put together, and posted out for about £15.
It would include all the bits, connectors etc, and a set of (fairly) idiot proof instructions with diagrams.
Alcazar
Edited to ammend price, as I looked at the wrong relay price .

Note to self: get some glasses!:

[Edited by alcazar - 9/26/2003 10:48:43 AM]

Tim-H

If you can do it for £15.00 put me down for 1, I`ve got the bits alone to about £40.00 to do it properly :-)
Bit`s ;approx 10 m of 3mm thinwall cable in various colors £3.00,3 30 amp fused relays £22.00, (2 for main 1 for dip)2x headlight plugs and connectors £6.00, bat tags £1.00, cable protector, £1.00, relay sockets and tags £3.00, heat shrink tube £1.00, cable ties £1.00, all + vat and postage,(might be a crap website I found better sugestions welcome)
Have a good one
Tim
edited to add prices from
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/homepage/home.html
first uk site I found,
this mornings text joke , Cadbury`s have just brought out a new chocolate bar, It`s rich, Dark and Nutty,
It`s called Bruno :-)

[Edited by Tim-H - 9/26/2003 12:00:43 PM]

Bottomfeeder

<sits down at keyboard with rather spikey hair, scorch marks under eyes and on tips of fingers>

£15:00 ??

I'm in, I'll buy my own wellies and earthing mat

Tim-H

What readings did you get ?
Tim

Bottomfeeder

13.84 v alt connextion
11.23 v lights

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you're probably right, I was only thinking of doing main beam.
Can't see why you want 3 relays though?
Mind you, I've got Morettes, and the inners are already on a relay, so just a case of uprating the cable.
Alcazar

Edited to say: perhaps, before we do this, we ought to enquire from the lamp-meister, Nick at Autolamps, what effect running halogen lamps at 14.4V, instead of 12V, will have on the lamps.
Life of bulb?
Especially since PVP bulbs aren't exactly cheap.:
A

[Edited by alcazar - 9/26/2003 3:07:15 PM]

Tim-H

Yes, you're probably right, I was only thinking of doing main beam.
Can't see why you want 3 relays though?

Several reasons, 1 is for dip 2 for main (one for either side)
1: If you want to run big bulbs, eg 130w+ it is better to split the load between 2 seperate circuits, the "not so good quality ones will stick on if not,
2; You reduce the voltage drop accross them by useing two,
3:You always have a spare, if the dip relay fails you can borrow 1 of the main beam ones to get you home
4; for the above gains vs extra cost (1 more relay and a little extra wire) it is worth it, I did a peugot for the RAC a few yrs back useing 1 relay for every lamp, 8 in all :-)

Edited to say: perhaps, before we do this, we ought to enquire from the lamp-meister, Nick at Autolamps, what effect running halogen lamps at 14.4V, instead of 12V, will have on the lamps.
Life of bulb?
Especially since PVP bulbs aren't exactly cheap.:

Most bulbs are not 12v they are desigend to run at 13.8 to 14.2 depending on make, the alternator is also designed to run at 13.8 to 14.2 ,the v drop is down to poor design of the wiring, relaying of the lights is just improving the efficiancy of what is already there, it does not increase the voltage above standard, only get it closer to what it should be,lamp life should then be closer to original spec.

I relayed mine yesterday :
I attempted to buy the bit`s from halfrauds in Hereford, so I could post a list that everone could get, THEY DIDN`T HAVE 1 RELAY !!!!! @*$kers, Went to LSUK ,they had everthing including new headlight plugs. Now got A LOT brighter lights,
If theres enough interest I will go into more detail and possably do a kit or a plug and play fully assembled unit, as if I did I would guarrentee that if you have an approx 2v drop you will be happy with the cost vs improvement or refund you,
Have a good one
Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

When I get a bit of time, I'm going to try this out by connecting one side direct to the battery +ve and -ve, and leaving the other standard. Then, if I can see what is happening, I'll do it properly. (ie: if I can see the difference: )

Have you used fused relays?, or seperate inline fuses?
Alcazar
PS: got a good local supplier who RECKONS he can get me Bosch fused 30A relays at £1 less each than I saw in the Wiring products catalogue.

Tim-H

Wanted to use fused but they would have had to order them, I have used durite heavy duty waterproof inline fuse`s and standard 30`amp relays
what site are you looking at ?
Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

The site was "Vehicle Wiring Products", the local supplier is WNS Electrics in Scunny.
Alcazar

Tim-H

Finised my relay project off with a pair of piaa 150/100w ceramic based bulbs, half an hour setting them up and they now **** all over my mates R32 discharge`s
Piaa spot`s should be here next week, that will be interesting :-)
Have a good one
Tim

Tim-H

finally finished the piaa drive`s today, hmmm I`d give the relay/bulb conversion 8/10 The piaa`s 5/10 for improvement vs cost/trouble to fit,
Have a good one
Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

How many out of 10 for the relay conversion alone, Tim?
Alcazar

Tim-H

8 on the fact of very little outlay (about £30.00 is for good kit)the only downside to relaying, Is the time involved in doing a nice job,
Also if you use the correct plugs/sockets it is fittable/ removable leaving the original loom un touched in approx 10 min`s
(the time taken is to make the kit not fit it)

ps I have been doing this conversion for over 20 yr`s now,I have fitted this setup on everything from lorries to gp A rally cars,
I would not be typing this if it did not work :-)(notice I am not trying to sell you anything and even If I was to make a kit It would probably be too expensive due to my hourly rate :-)
Have a good one
Tim

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

What "correct plugs and sockets" Tim?

I'm going to have to have a go at this when I get back from France in November.

Alcazar

Tim-H

I got mine from www.lsuk.co.uk (may be .com) lot`s of branches around, they had in stock headlight plugs, you can get different tags to go in them to make them male, 3 of them, 2 femail to go on lights 1 male to go into old headlight loom , hence plug and play , oh and two battery connections (ring tag`s) one nut on existing battery clamp to hold relay plate, about 10 mins to fit / remove with 1 10 mm spanner,
Have a good one.
Tim

Father Xmas

I bought one of these a month ago. Made a huge difference with the original bulbs.

Thick 6mm wires compared to the puny 2-3mm oem ones.

http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/company/press_release_detail.htm?id=11

dualtech

After driving home last night I remembered how bad the scoob lights are at this time of year, in fact their dangerous.

So I thought I'd pop to the elecrical section on scoobynet for some ideas.

I knew just sticking larger wattage bulbs in was'nt a good idea because of the cotten thin cables Subaru use.

So out with the multimeter

Alternator output 13.98v voltage at bulbs 12.97v. So my voldrop is not as large as yours.

So down to the motor factors, buy all the bits and some 100w/80w bulbs about £40

Finished the job in a couple of hours. Lights are now lots brighter.

The volage at the bulbs is now 13.46v and to show you how much cuerrent is drawn 6.54amps just on 1 100w element!!!!

Great thread
thanks to both of you



[Edited by dualtech - 10/29/2003 5:07:45 PM]

Tim-H

Nice one , have a check of the v drop between alt + pole and bat + post , I found quite a drop on mine. this will be replaced when I get round to it, (but mine works hard, approx 40 amp lamp load
Also if you have your soldering iron out with the colder weather coming on, if you have an older model the starter + & - could do with an upgrade.
Have a good one
Tim
ps if you are feeling rich try the PIAA ceramic based bulbs, I could only stretch to the 150/100`s @ £20 ish quid each, The 180/135 are closer to £60 each, but they would make you feel guilty for dipping to slowly lol