rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

My PIAA driving lights have stopped working!!!

I was told that it was the PIAA relay so i got another from Grade A, fitted it yesterday and they still dont work!!!

is there anything else i should try/look for?

the fuse inside the PIAA relay is okay.

Are there any other relays,fuses that i should be trying in the fuse box inside the car in or in the fuse box under the bonnet? I have checked all the fuses and they all seem to be in tact.

kin quick

iTrader: (2)

Mark,

Have you checked the connections on the lights for corrsion??
Or the live and earth connections for breakages or disconnections??
Or even the switch could be knackered!!! - you need to test it with a Multimeter

Ross

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Have a look at the relay.
Are you sure that it clicks when you select main beam? Use a mutimeter/circuit tester to see if it has output TO the lights. If not, does it have INPUT from the battery? Some folk fit an extra fuse here too. If you have one, check it.
Now check connections as above, for tightness, corrosion, and general well-being, especially earths.
If all else fails, suspect the bulbs.....it is DEFO NOT unheard of for both to go within hours of each other:
Alcazar

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

right, the whole loom is sheilded in that black corrugated stuff so i cant get to most of it but when i put the switch on in the car then pull the stalk to flash i can hear the relay clicking, when i turn off the switch and pull the stalk i can hear a quieter click which is obviously the otherrealy for the headlight full beam.

i think i'll have to take it to my local dealers as i dont have a multimeter and aint got a clue about electrics

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

If you're sure the relay is working, (clicking), then it can ONLY be either the feed to the relay from the battery, or the feed from the relay to the lights.
(That last assumes the bulbs are OK).
Try a local car shop: they sell a device that looks like a screwdriver, but has a long lead comimg out of the handle, with a crocodile type clip on the end. You put the croc clip on a suitable earth, battery -ve, or a bolt going into the body, then touch the tip of the "'driver" to the lead you want to kinow if it's live.
There's a little bulb in the handle that lights if you've found a live lead.
One of these will set you back only about £3, and you then test the wires going to the relay, (terminal 30), and the wire going to the lights, (terminal 87). Remember you MUST have the lights main beam selected to test this last, or it defo won't be live!
Terminal numbers are on the base of the relay.
Cheaper than a dealer!
Alcazar

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

cheers al, i will get one and give it a go

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

got tester, traced power all way back to bulbs, still power when touch back of bulb plate. must be the bulbs have blown.

is it common for both 2 blow at same time.

looked at PIAA site, replacemnts aint cheap!!!

anyone no of decent reasonable priced H3 130W halogen bulbs?

powerbulbs.com dont seem to do em.



cheers

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

i have just been out tryin to sort my driving lights out as they are not working.

i have just bought 2 new 12V 130W bulbs from Halfords, plugged them in but am still not getting any joy.

I have tried testing the power to the lights using a tester, putting the tester point after the multiplug which joins the loom to the light bulb, to the lightwhen i push the switch in on the dashboard, the tester lights up on both the black and white wires, when i turn the switch off, neither of the wires light up the tester.

this obviously means that there is power going to the bulbs!!!

why arent they working?

griffm

It sounds as if you have a poor earth (neagtive return for the current through your bulbs), there should be the feed to the bulbs from the relay and the other side of the bulb needs to go to a good earth point or the negative of the battery. :
Hope this helps.