Natski

As above would like to fit my defi Genome gauges but I had a look on the defi website and there are several PDF files to dowoad for the various types. I don't have a clue what type are the same as the genome gauges and my computer is broken so PDF files are pretty much useless anyway.

Anyone know of a good installation guide kicking about or even better a YouTube video, all I can find is people showing the startup sequence

Any help would be much appreciated guys

Natski

Would also like to point out before anybody starts that my computer is broken so I use my iPhone to come on here so the search function on the site does not work as it should

Someone please help me
Thanks

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

if you are buying genuine Defis, they come with fitting instructions.
Most of the wiring is plug and play, with just FOUR connections neding to be made on Defis that use a Controller.
These are:
Red: PERMANENT live, (even when ignition is off).
Orange: switched live to IGN second click.
White: Lighting live.
Black: Decent earth.

There are quite a few threads on here for fitting senders, but it would be best to know what gauges you have first? And second, what car, what model and what year car they are going on, so we can advise.

Natski

Thanks they are Sti genome gauges hence no instructions and I'm wanting to fit them into my 2003 impreza STi 8.

Think the wiring is straight forward enough just need help with all the senders
I have boost, oil pressure and oil temp to fit

Natski

These ones

Natski

.....

Natski

First of all the gauges i have are the defi genome STi JDM editions and i am trying to fit them into a type UK STi 2003
I have removed the clock pod from the car and chopped into the clock wires I connected the wires in the correct order as stated in this guide http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...-complete.html

When I turned on the ignition the gauges lit up and did the startup sequence. As soon as the sequence was done the little lights on the gauges turned from green to red and they where no longer backlit so you couldn't see the number dials lit up just a red flashing light on each gauge at that point i gave up

Am I right In thinking that they where no longer back lit and the red light was flashing because I had not connected any sensors yet ?

Is this what would happen if I had a fault with a sensor ( or in this case no sensor connected at all) would one of the gauges black out and flash red ?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Replied to your PM.

I would try connecting a sensor temporarily.
Does switching on the lights have any effect?

Mine are like that but white face, they are NOT lit up unless the lights are on.

Natski

Sorry should of mentioned that turning on the lights has no effect.
My friend and I are going to have another go tonight he is the one who knows how to connect all the sensors. I'm not 100% sure that the clock wiring it the same in my car as the one the guide we used as its an American site so were going to use a lamp tester to determine constant, ignition and illumination power then fit the sensors and see what happens. Fingers crossed all goes well

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

That was going to be my next suggestion.

How are you making connections to the clock wires? The best way is to strip back some of the insulation, do the same with the new wire, wrap new wire round and solder, then tape up.

Natski

We used bullet connectors to join the wires together. I thought that they must of been wired correctly because they went through the start up ceremony as they should but once that was done they just turned black and flashed red. Is that not what the start up ceremony is for though to check everything is in working order ie the sensors

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yep, supposed to be.

Not sure what you mean by "they just turned black". Those gauges don't look like BF ones?

Bullet connectors? So you cut the original wires?

Natski

What I ment by they just turned black is that the backlight went out completely, not black faced like the BF ones sorry for the confusion. They looked just like they do in the posted pic but the red lights under the peak indicator lights where flashing on all three gauges. We had no choice but to cut the connector block off the DC source lead for the control unit as it only came with one half of the connector block and we cut the connector block that is attached to the clock unit to join the wires up with bullet crimp type connectors. That shouldn't of caused a problem but we will find out tonight of it has when we test the wires in the car that where for the clock with a lamp test.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Right, it becomes clearer.

On mine, they go through the startup when switched on, then the backlight goes out unless the ignition is on and lights are on too.

Try lights AND ignition, see if you get illumination. If not, suspect the connection to lighting...check it IS live when it should be and that the connection is well made.

The flashing red warning lights, you will probably find are just to tell you no sender connected.

Natski

The illumination wire for the clock unit was dead so we have wired it off the radio instead that has sorted it out..
Didn't realise last night that the oil temp gauge needle wasn't going round on the start up sequence and it seems to be a faulty gauge it has moved a little bit and is now stuck at 60 degrees the fault light was also flashing until I drove down a pothole and that has put it out strangely. Also the oil temp is still flashing fault and not giving out a reading.

All the gauges are linked up to one another in the correct manner and can't help but think I have been sold faulty goods at this moment in time I'm not very happy to say the least.

I'm going to try and get Alyn from AS Performance to have a look at them ASAP as he is not too far away from me and is also a very well respected member of the Subaru community.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

I had an idea that lighting wire wasn't live.

You SURE that a) the wire from sender is firmly plugged into the control box, and b), the wire from sender to control box isn't damaged and IS plugged in correctly at sender end, and c) no wires are loose in the plug at the control box end?

Natski

Just fixed the stuck gauge it just needed a good hard flick

Problem with the oil pressure gauge i think is in the control unit because the oil pressure sensor plug that connects to the unit is black and all the others are white This tells me that the previous owner has changed the sensor to try and rectify the fault. I believe the original defi control units are compatible so I will buy one seen as tho they can be picked up for next to nothing