Defi gauges.....fitting??
Trending Topics
19 May 2012, 05:22 PM
#14
Oil PRESSURE may not vary much, but is certainly less just before the pump than after it.
As for oil temperature, even the Scoob designers knew that there is a notorious hotspot over cylinder No3,
which runs hottest anyway so they chose to put tappings there JUST so that a temperature probe could go in.WHY put it anywhere else?
And the bung for that place is £8, how much is a sandwich bodge?
19 May 2012, 05:30 PM
#16
It certainly isn't.
Oil PRESSURE may not vary much, but is certainly less just before the pump than after it.
As for oil temperature, even the Scoob designers knew that there is a notorious hotspot over cylinder No3, which runs hottest anyway so they chose to put tappings there JUST so that a temperature probe could go in.
WHY put it anywhere else?
And the bung for that place is £8, how much is a sandwich bodge?
Oil PRESSURE may not vary much, but is certainly less just before the pump than after it.
As for oil temperature, even the Scoob designers knew that there is a notorious hotspot over cylinder No3,
which runs hottest anyway so they chose to put tappings there JUST so that a temperature probe could go in.WHY put it anywhere else?
And the bung for that place is £8, how much is a sandwich bodge?
If it was that BIG a problem with the hot spot I think subaru would have put a oil temp gauge in as standard Jeff,don't try to make it into something it's not fella,you'll scare the poor man
Also given the extra time involved to get the bung/sensor into and above cylinder No3 it does work out cheaper to have a sandwich plate
Edit,ask Tim from JTinnovations where the sensors for oil pressure/temp fit that come in the package for the toucan touch screen to go with an alcatek/syvecs ecu if you feel a sandwich plate isn't up to the grade!
Last edited by prodriverules; 19 May 2012 at 05:58 PM.
19 May 2012, 06:23 PM
#17
Where would I recommend...near alternator for pressure, using a remote hose to make sure vibration is minimised (can kill sensors otherwise) and a t-piece to keep OEM pressure switch if wished, and temp from above cylinder #3. It takes but a short while to remove and replace a TMIC, and maybe a few minutes - with lots of swearing - to remove the bung in the block if you have the right tools.
Cylinder #3 really is the best place...but I do understand that many are quite happy with a sandwich plate as it is easier and, as Ryan says, on a stock car it may not be such a big deal.
YMMV
19 May 2012, 06:35 PM
#18
Cheers Tim,I fully agree the best place for them is as you mention,but on a stock motor it isn't essential by any means.
The cheapest way which is what the OP is looking to do with asking about the cost is a sandwich plate which will more than suffice in this application
I also don't like the look of the braided line from the alternator area,looks messy to me imo.
The cheapest way which is what the OP is looking to do with asking about the cost is a sandwich plate which will more than suffice in this application
I also don't like the look of the braided line from the alternator area,looks messy to me imo.
Last edited by prodriverules; 19 May 2012 at 06:38 PM.
19 May 2012, 09:44 PM
#20
I agree with all of you, but your fitting the gauges for what reaso, cus they look cool or because you want to see what's going on inside your engine, me personally fitted them in the block direct, a mate did the sandwich filling and then we both went for a spirited drive, dwolves to Stafford and back, oil pressure was neither here nor there but the temp was 10 degrees different, but it's your car bud so therefore your choice
20 May 2012, 11:03 AM
#22
Dave, HONESTLY mate, unless you are a complete dipsick, you CAN do it....assuming you have a day to do it in.
The gauge instructions are decent.
There are loads of threeads on here to help, many with photos.
I'll PM you my phone number for instant advice.
Do you have the gauges? A pod?
Then you need BASIC tools like a screwdriver set, wire strippers, pliers, and one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-CIRCUI...item563a0e4542 or similar. DO NOT buy dear.
What car is this on, btw? And have you an idea as to where you want the gauges?
It really ISN'T rocket science, mate. Just take your time, think about it, make sure you have all the bits you need before starting, and have plenty of coffee breaks.
The gauge instructions are decent.
There are loads of threeads on here to help, many with photos.
I'll PM you my phone number for instant advice.
Do you have the gauges? A pod?
Then you need BASIC tools like a screwdriver set, wire strippers, pliers, and one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-CIRCUI...item563a0e4542 or similar. DO NOT buy dear.
What car is this on, btw? And have you an idea as to where you want the gauges?
It really ISN'T rocket science, mate. Just take your time, think about it, make sure you have all the bits you need before starting, and have plenty of coffee breaks.
Last edited by alcazar; 20 May 2012 at 11:05 AM.
20 May 2012, 11:27 AM
#23
i fitted mine myself and have got to say surely its easier to fit the senders in the correct place i.e. under alternator and in cylinder 3.
if you use the sandwich plate you need to run wires under the car and also need to remove oil and filter to fit( i know this can combine a service).
using the correct outlets doesnt require being under the car or draining any fluids plus the wiring will be far shorter.
the oil pressure is a 5 min job that just requires alterntor removal, the cylinder 3 takes half an hour as the intercooler needs removing and the bung can be a pain to remove but not too bad if you use the correct long allen key socket.
im going to use mine for more track than road so i fitted the gauges plus water temp and volts and did them all in a day.
im sure the sandwich method works fine though.
if you use the sandwich plate you need to run wires under the car and also need to remove oil and filter to fit( i know this can combine a service).
using the correct outlets doesnt require being under the car or draining any fluids plus the wiring will be far shorter.
the oil pressure is a 5 min job that just requires alterntor removal, the cylinder 3 takes half an hour as the intercooler needs removing and the bung can be a pain to remove but not too bad if you use the correct long allen key socket.
im going to use mine for more track than road so i fitted the gauges plus water temp and volts and did them all in a day.
im sure the sandwich method works fine though.
