oil and boost gauges
08 October 2010, 11:30 PM
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oil and boost gauges
how big a job is it to fit oil temp.pressure and a boost gauge.to an 04 sti.?
do they plug into the ecu or do they need plumbing in,ive read about a sandwich plate.what does this do,cheers
do they plug into the ecu or do they need plumbing in,ive read about a sandwich plate.what does this do,cheers
09 October 2010, 10:03 AM
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Hi mate it's not too bad a job. There are plenty of posts on here about how to fit them but as a guide you can use a sandwich plate for the oil temp and pressure sensors which goes in between the oil filter and the engine but you don't an accurate reading. The best place for the pressure sensor is behind the alternator ( I think it connects to the oem sensor but not sure how.)
The oil temp sensor gets fitted using an adaptor into the engine block above cylinder four I think ( from the front of the engine it is under the intercooler back left of the block )
The boost gauge is the easiest as you need to cut the small vacuum pipe from your dump valve and put in a t piece to run a new pipe to your gauge.
Hope this helps you mate I have fitted a boost and oil temp gauge to my bugeye and it wasn't too bad a job just take your time
The oil temp sensor gets fitted using an adaptor into the engine block above cylinder four I think ( from the front of the engine it is under the intercooler back left of the block )
The boost gauge is the easiest as you need to cut the small vacuum pipe from your dump valve and put in a t piece to run a new pipe to your gauge.
Hope this helps you mate I have fitted a boost and oil temp gauge to my bugeye and it wasn't too bad a job just take your time
09 October 2010, 01:09 PM
#3
Nearly right, Martin
Oil pressure: The sender can go IN PLACE of the OE oil pressure switch, which is set so low that by the time it comes on, the engine has had it, so it's redundant with a gauge. It's situated on top front of the block, under the alternator belt. Remove the belt, and swing the laternator out of the way for better access.
Oil temperature The sender screws into a taping on top of No3 cylinder, which is rearmost, driver's side. The tapping has a plug in it, with an 8mm hex socket, so you need a LONG Allen key to get it out. It can be seen down in front of the intercooler and turbo, and the plug is block coloured and about 25mm across. Removal of the intercooler gives better access.
Boost As above, but some cars have an unused nipple on top of the inlet manifold, front n/s, which avoids having to cut any pipes. Just remove the cover and place boost pipe onto nipple.
Tip: when fitting senders into block, etc, wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the threads to help them seal. DO NOT overtighten, senders often have TAPER threads.
Oil pressure: The sender can go IN PLACE of the OE oil pressure switch, which is set so low that by the time it comes on, the engine has had it, so it's redundant with a gauge. It's situated on top front of the block, under the alternator belt. Remove the belt, and swing the laternator out of the way for better access.
Oil temperature The sender screws into a taping on top of No3 cylinder, which is rearmost, driver's side. The tapping has a plug in it, with an 8mm hex socket, so you need a LONG Allen key to get it out. It can be seen down in front of the intercooler and turbo, and the plug is block coloured and about 25mm across. Removal of the intercooler gives better access.
Boost As above, but some cars have an unused nipple on top of the inlet manifold, front n/s, which avoids having to cut any pipes. Just remove the cover and place boost pipe onto nipple.
Tip: when fitting senders into block, etc, wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the threads to help them seal. DO NOT overtighten, senders often have TAPER threads.
09 October 2010, 05:02 PM
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Nearly right, Martin
Oil pressure: The sender can go IN PLACE of the OE oil pressure switch, which is set so low that by the time it comes on, the engine has had it, so it's redundant with a gauge. It's situated on top front of the block, under the alternator belt. Remove the belt, and swing the laternator out of the way for better access.
Oil temperature The sender screws into a taping on top of No3 cylinder, which is rearmost, driver's side. The tapping has a plug in it, with an 8mm hex socket, so you need a LONG Allen key to get it out. It can be seen down in front of the intercooler and turbo, and the plug is block coloured and about 25mm across. Removal of the intercooler gives better access.
Boost As above, but some cars have an unused nipple on top of the inlet manifold, front n/s, which avoids having to cut any pipes. Just remove the cover and place boost pipe onto nipple.
Tip: when fitting senders into block, etc, wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the threads to help them seal. DO NOT overtighten, senders often have TAPER threads.
Oil pressure: The sender can go IN PLACE of the OE oil pressure switch, which is set so low that by the time it comes on, the engine has had it, so it's redundant with a gauge. It's situated on top front of the block, under the alternator belt. Remove the belt, and swing the laternator out of the way for better access.
Oil temperature The sender screws into a taping on top of No3 cylinder, which is rearmost, driver's side. The tapping has a plug in it, with an 8mm hex socket, so you need a LONG Allen key to get it out. It can be seen down in front of the intercooler and turbo, and the plug is block coloured and about 25mm across. Removal of the intercooler gives better access.
Boost As above, but some cars have an unused nipple on top of the inlet manifold, front n/s, which avoids having to cut any pipes. Just remove the cover and place boost pipe onto nipple.
Tip: when fitting senders into block, etc, wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the threads to help them seal. DO NOT overtighten, senders often have TAPER threads.
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