Defi link or defi advanced
#1
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Defi link or defi advanced
Hi guys. In a bit of a pickle.
I have currently a defi link boost gauge sat on my steering column. I have an opportunity to buy a set of defi advance gauges ( water temp, oil pressure and oil temp).
my question is is it worth getting the advanced gauges or hold out and wait for a set of defi link gauges to come along and compliment my existing boost link gauge.
cheers
I have currently a defi link boost gauge sat on my steering column. I have an opportunity to buy a set of defi advance gauges ( water temp, oil pressure and oil temp).
my question is is it worth getting the advanced gauges or hold out and wait for a set of defi link gauges to come along and compliment my existing boost link gauge.
cheers
#2
Scooby Regular
deffis looks nice in the centre pod,im not a fan of the ones on steering column or A pillar,in the other hand i have some bits stick in air wents😂
i have oil temp,boost and oil pressure,
think i will avoid buying water temp gauge,its in cluster anyway
Last edited by JdmSti2006; 11 November 2021 at 08:24 AM.
#3
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Got boost, o/p, oil temp, guel pressure and water temp.
You'd be surprised at how poor the stock eater temp gauge is compared to the defi.
And the furl pressure gauge, set to show how far below boost the fuel pressure is, has saved my engine at least once.
My KnockLink LED's are mounted round the f/p gauge at eye level.
You'd be surprised at how poor the stock eater temp gauge is compared to the defi.
And the furl pressure gauge, set to show how far below boost the fuel pressure is, has saved my engine at least once.
My KnockLink LED's are mounted round the f/p gauge at eye level.
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#4
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I'd buy the Link ones. That gives you nice and easy opportunity to add more gauges if needed. I have 5 gauges linked via it, originally there was only 3. The so called "chain connection" (or such) is really easy way to add em up. Also being able to record something for .. 3 min? I used the record option for example when tested my car 100 -> 200km/h accelerations, quarter mile runs, just to be sure IF something would have happened.
Defi Link
Defi Link
#5
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thanks for the posts guys. bit the bullet and bought the gauges.
where did you guys plumb the sensors in. as far as I understand, above cylinder 3 there is a bung for the oil sensors.
https://rspec.co.uk/gauge-adaptors-s...npt-p-437.html
did you guys purchase something like this for the oil temp and pressure sensors??
in regards to the water temp. where did you guys fit this sensor?
looking to fit 3 gauges in the triple cluster pod above the clock and the remaining gauge on the a pillar
where did you guys plumb the sensors in. as far as I understand, above cylinder 3 there is a bung for the oil sensors.
https://rspec.co.uk/gauge-adaptors-s...npt-p-437.html
did you guys purchase something like this for the oil temp and pressure sensors??
in regards to the water temp. where did you guys fit this sensor?
looking to fit 3 gauges in the triple cluster pod above the clock and the remaining gauge on the a pillar
#6
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Been a while since I did mine, but here's my thoughts.
You've bought probably the best gauges, so fit 'em right.
Oil pressure: fit into the existing oil pressure switch tappings. With a gauge, the switch is redundant.
Oil temperature: fit into the tappings on top of No3 cylinder. It needs an adaptor that looks like a large nut with a threaded outside. eBay.
Don't use an adaptor like the one you showed, but you CAN use that to fit the pressure sender if you really want the op switch.
The blanking plug needs a good quality long 8mm Allen key, preferably NOT ball ended.
Water temp: mines in the OE tappings for the OE gauge. Since i couldn't get on with out the OE temp gauge, (it showed cold all the time), I've refitted it into an adaptor inserted in the top hose. The Defi gets the OE tappings as that's the prime position.
Do ensure a decent earth.
You've bought probably the best gauges, so fit 'em right.
Oil pressure: fit into the existing oil pressure switch tappings. With a gauge, the switch is redundant.
Oil temperature: fit into the tappings on top of No3 cylinder. It needs an adaptor that looks like a large nut with a threaded outside. eBay.
Don't use an adaptor like the one you showed, but you CAN use that to fit the pressure sender if you really want the op switch.
The blanking plug needs a good quality long 8mm Allen key, preferably NOT ball ended.
Water temp: mines in the OE tappings for the OE gauge. Since i couldn't get on with out the OE temp gauge, (it showed cold all the time), I've refitted it into an adaptor inserted in the top hose. The Defi gets the OE tappings as that's the prime position.
Do ensure a decent earth.
Last edited by alcazar; 03 December 2021 at 08:58 PM.
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#7
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Been a while since I did mine, but here's my thoughts.
You've bought probably the best gauges, so fit 'em right.
Oil pressure: fit into the existing oil pressure switch tappings. With a gauge, the switch is redundant.
Oil temperature: fit into the tappings on top of No3 cylinder. It needs an adaptor that looks like a large nut with a threaded outside. eBay.
Don't use an adaptor like the one you showed, but you CAN use that to fit the pressure sender if you really want the op switch.
The blanking plug needs a good quality long 8mm Allen key, preferably NOT ball ended.
Water temp: mines in the OE tappings for the OE gauge. Since i couldn't get on with out the OE temp gauge, (it showed cold all the time), I've refitted it into an adaptor inserted in the top hose. The Defi gets the OE tappings as that's the prime position.
Do ensure a decent earth.
You've bought probably the best gauges, so fit 'em right.
Oil pressure: fit into the existing oil pressure switch tappings. With a gauge, the switch is redundant.
Oil temperature: fit into the tappings on top of No3 cylinder. It needs an adaptor that looks like a large nut with a threaded outside. eBay.
Don't use an adaptor like the one you showed, but you CAN use that to fit the pressure sender if you really want the op switch.
The blanking plug needs a good quality long 8mm Allen key, preferably NOT ball ended.
Water temp: mines in the OE tappings for the OE gauge. Since i couldn't get on with out the OE temp gauge, (it showed cold all the time), I've refitted it into an adaptor inserted in the top hose. The Defi gets the OE tappings as that's the prime position.
Do ensure a decent earth.
thanks for the reply.
1. if I remove the existing oe oil pressure switch will I not get a fault code? im assuming I just leave the existing loom there.
2. that threaded nut you mentioned. in that link I posted up. I can see a nut on there, is that what you mean? they sell that separately too
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#8
Scooby Regular
Got boost, o/p, oil temp, guel pressure and water temp.
You'd be surprised at how poor the stock eater temp gauge is compared to the defi.
And the furl pressure gauge, set to show how far below boost the fuel pressure is, has saved my engine at least once.
My KnockLink LED's are mounted round the f/p gauge at eye level.
You'd be surprised at how poor the stock eater temp gauge is compared to the defi.
And the furl pressure gauge, set to show how far below boost the fuel pressure is, has saved my engine at least once.
My KnockLink LED's are mounted round the f/p gauge at eye level.
other gauges do not exist on dashboard thats why we fit aftermarker ones
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
thanks for the reply.
1. if I remove the existing oe oil pressure switch will I not get a fault code? im assuming I just leave the existing loom there.
2. that threaded nut you mentioned. in that link I posted up. I can see a nut on there, is that what you mean? they sell that separately too
1. if I remove the existing oe oil pressure switch will I not get a fault code? im assuming I just leave the existing loom there.
2. that threaded nut you mentioned. in that link I posted up. I can see a nut on there, is that what you mean? they sell that separately too
Yes that nut thingy, adaptor.
There was also an unused nipple on the intake manifold with a rubber cover.
The cover came off, the boost gauge sensor went on.
#10
Scooby Newbie
Been a while since I did mine, but here's my thoughts.
You've bought probably the best gauges, so fit 'em right.
Oil pressure: fit into the existing oil pressure switch tappings. With a gauge, the switch is redundant.
Oil temperature: fit into the tappings on top of No3 cylinder. It needs an adaptor that looks like a large nut with a threaded outside. eBay.
Don't use an adaptor like the one you showed, but you CAN use that to fit the pressure sender if you really want the op switch.
The blanking plug needs a good quality long 8mm Allen key, preferably NOT ball ended.
Water temp: mines in the OE tappings for the OE gauge. Since i couldn't get on with out the OE temp gauge, (it showed cold all the time), I've refitted it into an adaptor inserted in the top hose. The Defi gets the OE tappings as that's the prime position.
Do ensure a decent earth.
You've bought probably the best gauges, so fit 'em right.
Oil pressure: fit into the existing oil pressure switch tappings. With a gauge, the switch is redundant.
Oil temperature: fit into the tappings on top of No3 cylinder. It needs an adaptor that looks like a large nut with a threaded outside. eBay.
Don't use an adaptor like the one you showed, but you CAN use that to fit the pressure sender if you really want the op switch.
The blanking plug needs a good quality long 8mm Allen key, preferably NOT ball ended.
Water temp: mines in the OE tappings for the OE gauge. Since i couldn't get on with out the OE temp gauge, (it showed cold all the time), I've refitted it into an adaptor inserted in the top hose. The Defi gets the OE tappings as that's the prime position.
Do ensure a decent earth.
#11
Scooby Regular
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But the tappings above cylinder 3 are there for a reason: that cylinder is known to run hottest.
See, the oil temperature isn't just so you can wait until it warms sufficient to give it some beans, it's also above that cylinder yo give you warning that that particular cylinder is running too hot, so back off.
In the sump plug it can't do that.
See, the oil temperature isn't just so you can wait until it warms sufficient to give it some beans, it's also above that cylinder yo give you warning that that particular cylinder is running too hot, so back off.
In the sump plug it can't do that.
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14 September 2011 11:12 AM