Jza

Has anyone tried putting decent quaility cable into the doors. I did this on my old car and to be honest it was a complete nightmare!!! Is it really difficult?

Is the standard stuff any good or will i notice the difference? Is it worth the grief???

Im amping from the boot to the front doors into MB Quartz component speakers.

Would stripping the exisiting wire after it enters the car and soldering on the new wire be a really bad idea - or will it sound as good as the existing door speaker wire would sound.... and save me the effort if you follow

Jza

chiark

I'd say that, unfortunately, you can hear the difference...

Sorry

stevencotton

****.

I didn't bother replacing the door speaker wire as it looked like a total nightmare job. Any tips on feeding the (fatter) cable through the feeders into the door panel?

Cheers,
Steve.

chiark

Yep, use stiff cable, such as a single copper mains cable as used in lighting circuits, tape, some lubrication (wd40) and effort.

I've got two runs of 14 gauge into the doors. That was painful. The cursing when the tape slipped halfway through could probably be heard over most of the country.

Max, my friendly dealer, did help a hell of a lot . So get an adult to help you - it's what I did

PGMabley

I did it

Amp in the boot also

What an arseache of a job!

Sounds excellent though - this is the only way you will get speakers to show their quality (from my experience with home hi-fi separates - no knowledge of ICE to speak of!)

Paul

stevencotton

Wow, I've been overcome with the urge to do it on Saturday. I just popped out and took a look, there's enough room for the cable but it's going to be a sod, probably not really worth it for the Infinity components I got in there but once it's done it's done I guess. Will let you now how I fare.

Cheers,
Steve.

john banks

"probably not really worth it for the Infinity components I got in there"

Rubbish - my £90 Infinity components sounded much better after good wire - mind you they do run 150WRMS each, which is a bit much for Subaru wiring.

Do it.

ScoobyDoo555

REPLACE THE CABLE - it's ****.......

I've done it - wasn't difficult (use the existing cable as a "pull-through")

Piece of P1ss

Dan

stevencotton

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by john banks:
"probably not really worth it for the Infinity components I got in there"

Rubbish - my £90 Infinity components sounded much better after good wire<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Oh ok then - mine cost the same but they're not rated that high I don't think, I can't remember off hand. Which model is it?

Steve.

john banks

605CS. They are only rated 90W. But they sound so happy with 150WRMS that I thought it would be rude not to. They do not complain. However, in reality, just because I run them with an amplifier that produces that much cleanly, doesn't mean they get that much in reality as I would go deaf - and working in ear nose and throat that would be a bit silly. They sound so much better being run off an overpowered amp not running at max attack - the transients are so effortless and clear and the whole thing is very flexible - comparable to a big 6 or 8 cyl engine - you can feel the torque even at very low revs and it is beautifully effortless. Thanks to Rockin'Ru and others for enlightening me on this previously! The thing that kills speakers (esp tweeters) is underpowering them and clipping them (ie supply DC = fry). The rec.audio.car faq says that you would have a hard time blowing any aftermarket speaker from overpowering with most of the amps on the market. Unless your name is Rockin'Ru and you run immensely powerful American amps off the nearest electrical substation (just pulling your leg m8 - thanks for all the advice).

[This message has been edited by john banks (edited 28 June 2001).]

Jza

Thanks everyone.

New you'd say that. Damn - its an awful job to look forward to. Still, im dynamatting at the same time so at least i kill two birds.

Anyone in the midlands listen out for the screems!!!!

Jza

stevencotton

John,

Mine are only 410cs's of which I paid 90 quid for (summer 2000) from Inca Car Audio in Welwyn, was I robbed? I want to upgrade to some Kappas, any mail order suggestions?

Cheers,
Steve.

john banks

410Cs 4" 2-Way component system
Silk Dome tweeter
TLH woofer
Rubber surround
60 Watts
Frequency response 90-20Khz
Sensitivity 89dB@2.83 volts
Mounting depth 1.875"
Flush mount tweeter

These are four inch? Where in the Scoob do you have those fitted? Try recent postings for good websites for buying stuff.

Consider Infinity 605CS if £100(reference) or Infinity Kappas, CD Technologies, MB Quart, Focal etc if wanting to spend £200-400 for a pair of fronts.

stevencotton

Yup they're ones, mounted where the OEM bits of paper were (reused the original mount) with the tweeters in the supplied tweeter mount. My dad has kappas in his Merc and they sound great, I'm happy with the brand (sub too) so I think I'll stick with them.

Cheers for that,
Steve.

[This message has been edited by stevencotton (edited 28 June 2001).]

GraemeC

I'm about to fit a pair of 605cs in the front doors and was wondering whether it is worth replacing the leads that come pre-soldered to the tweeter? My inital thought is no as there isn't much power pulled through a tweeter wire but I'm open to suggestions/advice!!

ScoobyDoo555

Jza, if you want a hand, let me know - I live in the area.....


Dan

john banks

I replaced the 605CS tweeter wire as it was too short to reach the crossover. Probably doesn't really matter that much - I doubt if I would be able to tell any difference for the reasons you state re power.

Edited to say use a small soldering iron if you do for only a short time otherwise the plastic that is attached to the solder tags will start to melt, and you could accidentally desolder the internal wire with the heat. There is a hole in the solder tag if you desolder the originals which allows you to coil the new wire end around it, allowing a quick dab of solder for only a few seconds.

[This message has been edited by john banks (edited 29 June 2001).]

stevencotton

Ok,

HUGE respect to those of you that rewired your front door speakers. I don't know how you did it but on my MY98 it's impossible. Car-body side gromit is shielded with metal, body-side wiring is totally encased in rubber and tape and I feared cutting other wires trying to take it off to pull anything through (it's half inside the shielding and I can't reach it, wires unmoveable). On the door side, same problem - everything is shielded by both door metal and rubber/tape, short of lots of cutting of wire shielding I can't see any way I could pull it through successfully without damaging anything else, my right arm is still red from it rubbing against the speaker opening.

I took the other route - I cut a small slit in the gromits and fed the cable through there (WD40 required), and sealed it with sealant. Of course, I have speaker cable running alongside the door feeds but I can live with that and I can hardly see it. Trouble is I know in my mind it's not 100%, but I couldn't risk cutting blind and having no windows

Steve.

[This message has been edited by stevencotton (edited 30 June 2001).]

john banks

Steve! That is exactly what I did except on one side there was a blanking grommet which I used (the door side I think). Also put waterproof tape around the speaker wire so marry it to the existing conduit. I would never know and the speaker wire hasn't worn or failed.

Have to say the firewall bit for amp power is a lot easier in the Impreza than some other cars, and generally the Impreza is an easy car to wire as long as you don't damage the delicate trim.

PGMabley

Steve

Thats exactly what I did and I dont give a monkeys f*ck if its right or not (hehehe)!!!

Paul

stevencotton

Well, I like things to be perfect, unfortunately this time it wasn't meant to be Speakers sound a little better though and it's all there for when I upgrade. Noticed a lot of corrosion on the crossover connectors though, anyone else get that?

Steve.

Jza

Jeez,

So i need to a) drill a new hole or b) not use the normal lume - add a second one.

oh, and c) watch out for knuckle scrapes.

Thanks folks!

Jza

rockin'Ru

Guys,call me a knuckle-dragger if you want,but I just unbolted the door from the car and suported it along the side,drilled holes in the door and pillar the same size as the factory holes and bought the same factory styled rubber pass-throughs for protection.Looks factory,and I bet ya it's faster and easier.

rockin'Ru

Oh,and John,my amps are both american made but not the best.But the diff between my amps and higher end stuff is purely at the discretion of the judge.Both have won sq and spl competitions,but not a combo of both.
I bought both of them years ago,based on rms power at battery voltage(12.5 volts for the MTX and 12.9 for the USAcoustics).The MTX was WAYYY under rated while the USAcoustics was a class AB amp was rated at it's rms and max at the same time.400x2 rms @4 ohms and 500x2@ 2 ohms,1000x1@4 ohms,regardless of voltage.
I didn't know about class D amps then.Now I know that an MTX 500D amp for a quarter of the price of my amp can rival those #'s.The thd is higher on the class D but as far as subs go,you won't notice it.
Jeeze,sorry guys,I'm rambling again.This is one of my favorite sites but I haven't had much time.
As for the topic;don't bother replacing the factory wires unless you're going to run more than the hu's power(around 15 watts rms).Most of todays hu's push 22-plus watts and if you run an out-board amp,do the upgrade.

john banks

Sounds cool, but what is a knuckle dragger?

You do run four times as much power as my install though!

[This message has been edited by john banks (edited 03 July 2001).]

chiark

John, just think what gorillas do...

Steve, sounds extreme to me. I just know that I'd drop the door...

stevencotton

Your knuckles will be fine, it's the inside of your elbows you have to watch

Steve.