Sound deadening doors advice needed
#1
Sound deadening doors advice needed
Hi,
I'd like to replace my front speakers with 2 way units and add some sound deadening material to the front doors at the same time. I've seen quite a few posts on the subject but I'm a little unclear about exactly where the material goes. Does it go inside the door cavity or between the trim and the inside skin ? I'm guessing into the cavity but how is it secured and how do you prevent it from interfering with the window mechanism ?
FYI I have a MY00 classic and I'm thinking of using the Brown Bread material as it seems a lot cheaper than Dynamat.
Many thanks !
Andy.
I'd like to replace my front speakers with 2 way units and add some sound deadening material to the front doors at the same time. I've seen quite a few posts on the subject but I'm a little unclear about exactly where the material goes. Does it go inside the door cavity or between the trim and the inside skin ? I'm guessing into the cavity but how is it secured and how do you prevent it from interfering with the window mechanism ?
FYI I have a MY00 classic and I'm thinking of using the Brown Bread material as it seems a lot cheaper than Dynamat.
Many thanks !
Andy.
#4
Many thanks for the advice guys. Those pics make it a lot easier to see how it works. That was a really neat install darms, you've set a high standard for me to follow there
Did you find that the material made a good improvement in sound quality ? My original fit speakers really struggle with road and exhaust noise !
Did you find that the material made a good improvement in sound quality ? My original fit speakers really struggle with road and exhaust noise !
#5
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No worries
Cheers mate.... just make sure you heat the sound proofing up well before you start applying it. Also you get a small wallpaper roller
To be honest, in terms of sounds quality I upgraded my speakers at the same time and therefore wasnt able to do a pre and post test. But I'm sure it would make a improvement to standard speakers too.
I would recommend you cap off ya front speakers at 100hz (be that from ya head unit or using caps, if you havent already done so That should stop them from distorting.
Have fun and post some pics once ya done.... (oh yeah - make sure you have some plasters with you....you'll cut ya hands up when applying the sheets to the inner skin of the doors)
Cheers mate.... just make sure you heat the sound proofing up well before you start applying it. Also you get a small wallpaper roller
To be honest, in terms of sounds quality I upgraded my speakers at the same time and therefore wasnt able to do a pre and post test. But I'm sure it would make a improvement to standard speakers too.
I would recommend you cap off ya front speakers at 100hz (be that from ya head unit or using caps, if you havent already done so That should stop them from distorting.
Have fun and post some pics once ya done.... (oh yeah - make sure you have some plasters with you....you'll cut ya hands up when applying the sheets to the inner skin of the doors)
#6
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No worries
Cheers mate.... just make sure you heat the sound proofing up well before you start applying it. Also you get a small wallpaper roller
To be honest, in terms of sounds quality I upgraded my speakers at the same time and therefore wasnt able to do a pre and post test. But I'm sure it would make a improvement to standard speakers too.
I would recommend you cap off ya front speakers at 100hz (be that from ya head unit or using caps, if you havent already done so That should stop them from distorting.
Have fun and post some pics once ya done.... (oh yeah - make sure you have some plasters with you....you'll cut ya hands up when applying the sheets to the inner skin of the doors)
Cheers mate.... just make sure you heat the sound proofing up well before you start applying it. Also you get a small wallpaper roller
To be honest, in terms of sounds quality I upgraded my speakers at the same time and therefore wasnt able to do a pre and post test. But I'm sure it would make a improvement to standard speakers too.
I would recommend you cap off ya front speakers at 100hz (be that from ya head unit or using caps, if you havent already done so That should stop them from distorting.
Have fun and post some pics once ya done.... (oh yeah - make sure you have some plasters with you....you'll cut ya hands up when applying the sheets to the inner skin of the doors)
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I didn't do as much as the example above, but I did do the inside of the plastic door cards as well. I used Brown Bread (although Dynamat Extreme is supposedly better) which worked fine, heated the roll up on the radiator first then it's easy to work with.
I had fitted Infinity 6020cs, and at first they didn't sound great which is why I did the sound deadening. It made a big difference, you can actually notice the tune of the bass which seemed to get lost before.
I had fitted Infinity 6020cs, and at first they didn't sound great which is why I did the sound deadening. It made a big difference, you can actually notice the tune of the bass which seemed to get lost before.
Last edited by escott; 25 January 2008 at 02:21 PM.
#9
I didn't mention it but I'm planning to replace the stock speakers with Infinity 5010's from here: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/3828.html
Don't see the point of spend loads as it will always be noisy ! So it sounds like you think yours were worth the cash after you sound proofed escott ?
I think the head unit has a variable lpf so I will experiment once it's all installed !
Cheers,
Andy.
Don't see the point of spend loads as it will always be noisy ! So it sounds like you think yours were worth the cash after you sound proofed escott ?
I think the head unit has a variable lpf so I will experiment once it's all installed !
Cheers,
Andy.
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Infinity 6020 's good choise, dynamat type stuff on door skin & around speaker area, also on inside of door card worked a treat for me, massive difference especially base responce, not to mention the satisfying "clunk" when you shut the door, which now no doubt weigh twice original !!
OK door hinges will probably fail soon but its worth it !
I ended up doing the load area floor as well ( classic wagon ) which I recon also cut down some vibes up back, ( ended up grafting in a pair of infinity 6x9 references into the original holes ) probably pointless in a saloon but in a wagon I wanted some "rear" fill.
probably cost the equivalent of 10 BHP in performance due to weight.
OK door hinges will probably fail soon but its worth it !
I ended up doing the load area floor as well ( classic wagon ) which I recon also cut down some vibes up back, ( ended up grafting in a pair of infinity 6x9 references into the original holes ) probably pointless in a saloon but in a wagon I wanted some "rear" fill.
probably cost the equivalent of 10 BHP in performance due to weight.
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I didn't mention it but I'm planning to replace the stock speakers with Infinity 5010's from here: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/3828.html
Don't see the point of spend loads as it will always be noisy ! So it sounds like you think yours were worth the cash after you sound proofed escott ?
I think the head unit has a variable lpf so I will experiment once it's all installed !
Cheers,
Andy.
Don't see the point of spend loads as it will always be noisy ! So it sounds like you think yours were worth the cash after you sound proofed escott ?
I think the head unit has a variable lpf so I will experiment once it's all installed !
Cheers,
Andy.
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