need a new amp, but dont know how to spec up
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
need a new amp, but dont know how to spec up
Ive got this Sub :
http://thebassbin.co.uk/shop/product...s_id/1512.html
and my amp isnt too well after some entusiastic driving so i was looking to buy this one off my mate :
http://www.shop.earthlink.dealtime.c...Titanium_800_1
can someone tell me if this amp will be suitable
cheers
Simon
#4
BANNED
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Falkirk, Scotland
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The amp will probably overpower the sub. As long as you leave the gains on the amp set at a lower level then it should be ok. The first thing i would do when you have the money for and upgrade is buy a decent brand of sub. £100 is way to expensive for that one.
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: I want a Spec C!
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
get the amp. it will give you an ideal opportunity to upgrade you current sub when you kill this one it will also in the time being make the sub that you have now sound as could as it ever could do. fantastic quality is PG, have used them for years with no problems.
It will run down to 1 ohm and still be stable buut only in stereo, if you bridge it and try to run it at 1 ohm you will be running it quite hard, not that it wont take it though but your not going to get any benefit from it as you wont get any more power buy doing this.
this would be a good amp for a couple of subs of reasonable power rating, something like a JL Audio 12 w3 or even the w6's. it would sound awaesome in the correct enclosure.
It will run down to 1 ohm and still be stable buut only in stereo, if you bridge it and try to run it at 1 ohm you will be running it quite hard, not that it wont take it though but your not going to get any benefit from it as you wont get any more power buy doing this.
this would be a good amp for a couple of subs of reasonable power rating, something like a JL Audio 12 w3 or even the w6's. it would sound awaesome in the correct enclosure.
Last edited by scoobysmiff; 03 February 2006 at 05:22 PM.
#6
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Brighton no more
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sub looked to be able to handle 700W rms, amp can put out 800W (2 ohms) so they seem pretty well matched.
Sub seems to have two 4 ohm voice coils, so wire them up in parallel if you can (+ to + then to the + of the amp, - to - then to the - of the amp) so you get 2 ohm total, and get the most power from the amp.
Didn't see the bit about amp running 1 ohm in the spec, and it's mono so no bridging/stereo etc.
What you can find is that runing amps at low impedances (i.e. 2 ohm rather than 4 ohm) whilst it can give more power the damping factor can be decreased. This means the amp is less able to control the cone of woofers especially.
Assuming a well designed power supply and amp circuitry you could get as much as twice the power with a 2 ohm load compared to a 4 ohm one. This, however, would give you (at best) 3dB more volume (less probably due to power compression etc.).
So, it may not be worth running it a system at 2 ohm due to the trade-off of damping factor verses sound pressure level gain.
what was the question again???
Sub seems to have two 4 ohm voice coils, so wire them up in parallel if you can (+ to + then to the + of the amp, - to - then to the - of the amp) so you get 2 ohm total, and get the most power from the amp.
Didn't see the bit about amp running 1 ohm in the spec, and it's mono so no bridging/stereo etc.
What you can find is that runing amps at low impedances (i.e. 2 ohm rather than 4 ohm) whilst it can give more power the damping factor can be decreased. This means the amp is less able to control the cone of woofers especially.
Assuming a well designed power supply and amp circuitry you could get as much as twice the power with a 2 ohm load compared to a 4 ohm one. This, however, would give you (at best) 3dB more volume (less probably due to power compression etc.).
So, it may not be worth running it a system at 2 ohm due to the trade-off of damping factor verses sound pressure level gain.
what was the question again???
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats more like it! BTW the current amp with this sub (when it works) sounds quite nice, will it be louder/better sounding with this amp??
existing amp : KENWOOD
1 x 1600 Watts MAX Power @ 4 OHM. 1 x 1000 Watts RMS @ 1 OHM. 1x 800 Watts RMS @ 2 OHM. 1 x 400 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM Signal/Noise Ratio 100dB. Frequency Response 5Hz-200Hz. 24dB Crossover 50-200Hz, Low Pass Filter. Bass Boost Variable From 0dB to +18dB @ 40-100Hz. 24dB Infrasonic Filter OFF/15/25Hz. Variable Band Reject Filter. Variable Colour Power ON Indicator. Remote BMS Operation
ps i know the sub looks naff but its actually quite impressive when you hear it next to the branded stuff, ive still got a 10"DVC rockford fossy sub but this onesounds MUCH louder and can handle drum and bass/ hip hop better.
Thanks
Si
existing amp : KENWOOD
1 x 1600 Watts MAX Power @ 4 OHM. 1 x 1000 Watts RMS @ 1 OHM. 1x 800 Watts RMS @ 2 OHM. 1 x 400 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM Signal/Noise Ratio 100dB. Frequency Response 5Hz-200Hz. 24dB Crossover 50-200Hz, Low Pass Filter. Bass Boost Variable From 0dB to +18dB @ 40-100Hz. 24dB Infrasonic Filter OFF/15/25Hz. Variable Band Reject Filter. Variable Colour Power ON Indicator. Remote BMS Operation
ps i know the sub looks naff but its actually quite impressive when you hear it next to the branded stuff, ive still got a 10"DVC rockford fossy sub but this onesounds MUCH louder and can handle drum and bass/ hip hop better.
Thanks
Si
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Brighton no more
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seems to be more adjustments possible with Kenwood unit, so in theory it could be set up to sound better.
Doubt there'll be much in it in practice though.
You need to try and set the woofer up so it takes care of the bass up to the point where your doors speakers take over, without too much overlap (although the overlap is best set up by ear). So both the sub's top end needs a cut-off, and the door 'speakers bottom end needs a cut-off. Typcial values go from around 70Hz to around 200Hz, but this depends on lots of factors.
It also helps to filter out really really low bass (what that is depends on what your sub/enclosure can handle) so that the power is driving the 'speaker and producing useful output, not just heating it up. This cut off may be from 10Hz to 40Hz, but again varies.
It's amazing what difference it can make correctly setting up a system; you can get even cheapo stuff to sound great (and conversely get expensive stuff to sound rubbish!).
Doubt there'll be much in it in practice though.
You need to try and set the woofer up so it takes care of the bass up to the point where your doors speakers take over, without too much overlap (although the overlap is best set up by ear). So both the sub's top end needs a cut-off, and the door 'speakers bottom end needs a cut-off. Typcial values go from around 70Hz to around 200Hz, but this depends on lots of factors.
It also helps to filter out really really low bass (what that is depends on what your sub/enclosure can handle) so that the power is driving the 'speaker and producing useful output, not just heating it up. This cut off may be from 10Hz to 40Hz, but again varies.
It's amazing what difference it can make correctly setting up a system; you can get even cheapo stuff to sound great (and conversely get expensive stuff to sound rubbish!).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
crazyspeedfreakz
Wanted
17
05 October 2015 07:19 PM