ICE install for dumies
31 January 2001, 06:34 PM
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I just fitted the latest 6 1/2 Kappas (60.2 CS), and a Kenwood 7080 headunit & changer. I was flying blind...apart from the door skin removals on Chiark's FAQ (where's the dynamic version, M8?)So....
The Kappas didn't quite fit the standard mounts at first, but 10 minutes with a sander solved this - removed 3 little triangular flanges and a general all-round chamfer of about 0.2 mm.
Install using the Infinity mounting spacer, and the standard screws, DON'T tighten them all up as you need the play in the speaker-to-spacer screws to get a screwdriver on the spacer-to-door screws! You'll need to cut out the sealing rubber to allow the connecting wires to run OK.
You have to be very careful to angle the speaker so the side with the connections goes into the spacer first, otherwise you'll bend them or worse.
The tweeters mounted easily onto the standard scooby mounting brackets - if you don't have these, take a careful look ahead of the door handleand you'll see 2 screws - make up a sheet-metal bracket that rins butween these and angles the tweeters towards your ear.
Beware - my tweeters came with the bayonet-mount already on them - it took a while of careful fiddling to get them off so we could put a screw through the bayonet mount. You will need countersunk bolts, OR use the self-tappers provided with a piece of plastic - e.g. the spine of a pack of rawlplugs. 2 bodge points but works.
To mount the crossover, get 2 pieces (1 packet) of mounting strip (looks like meccano) from Halfords, mount it to the nut above the rear of the kidney-shaped hole in the doorskin which holds part of the window mechanism, and drill a hole in the flange at the bottom of the doorskin hole. You'll need to bend the strip to make it fit nicely. Then grease or waxoyl the hole you've drilled!
The crossover mount will be outside the plastic sheet, though you'll need to cut a slit in this, so install it AFTER you've done your dynamatting.
You will need to extend the input and the tweeter wires to reach the crossover in this position. Time for connectors and crimpers! Oh and the +ve is the red and yellow speaker wire on an MY00, but to chack yours trace the wires from the ISO output on the headunit to the subaru loom. Fun - not.
Once you've fitted the wires to the crossover, grease or vaseline the contacts!
To Dynamat the doors, what I did was this
(This assumes that the speaker is out as you need to get your hand through the hole to do all this!)
Carefully peel back the bottom half of the
Starting with a 4 SQ foot piece, about an 8 or 10 inch wide piece (along the short side) of the dynamat will cover the bottom third of the inner skin. Make a U-shape hole (open side at bottom) where the speaker will go. Save this piece. Then just peel part of the backing off and pregressively stick it down. Then rub it into the nooks and crannies with something round (I used the end of a screwdriver handle - the ideal tool would be one of those little hard rollers used for making lino prints. Don't worry about chopping off the bit that covers part of the "hole" as I'm sure this baffles it all nicely. Use any oddments on the flanges around the large hole in the skin.
For the outer door skin, cut what you have left into 2 (again along the short side) This will give you the right amount to go from the bottom of the skin up to the middle (where the side-impact bar is on the inside, level with the groove on the outside). For anyone of normal anatomy tho top half of the skin is out of bounds IMHO.
To install this, start at front or rear - fold the piece you have in half, fold at top, backing paper out. Peel off the backing frm the side facing you, as far as the fold, and let it hang down the back. Now put the piece into the door through the large hole, then make sure the bottom (non-sticky) edge is snugly at the bottom and corner of the door. Now fold up the folded bit, press down part od the top edge to make it stick, and you can stick it all down peeling the backing off as you go. Press it all down as before and repeat for the other (front or rear) half of the door.
Now take the piece you cut out for the speaker and stick it over the other layer, behind where the speaker will be.
You need to be a bit savvy as there's nothing Dynamat likes more than sticking to itself, but this "foldback" technique does the trick.
Lots of duck tape gets the platic sheet back down and the wires secured and flap-free.
And finally..installing the headunit:
Put several layers of insulating tape on the headunit surround before you start!
Remove the old one and its mounting, insert the new mounting, the fun comes with the wires...the OEM headunit has an ISO to Subaru adapter, the Kenwood one comes with a Kenwood to ISO adapter. You need both...that's a LOT of wire. If you just try and shove the new headunit in, it won't go. Or will at the expense of distorting the facia. What you need to do is put something (the wire to the changer, a piece of string...) up from the passenger footwell, make a neat slim bundle of the wires with a zip-tie, attach it to whatever you're using to pull it through, and pull the wires down and left as you slide the headunit in.
If you need to lift carpets to run wires - easy-peasy - there's a fastener in th passenger footwell, and four little fasteners in the kick-plate, to remove the whole kick-plate trim, then you will see some little white clips underneath the staples on the carpet - 2 seconds with your trusty electrician's screwdriver and voila. The black clips on the white cable-run are press-on screw-off. Suits you sir!
Looks like the footwell area is a good candidate for some dynamat action.
It took me a lot longer to work all this out than it's just done to type it - hope it's useful!
The setup sounds great - well worth the spend on the Kappas.
The Kappas didn't quite fit the standard mounts at first, but 10 minutes with a sander solved this - removed 3 little triangular flanges and a general all-round chamfer of about 0.2 mm.
Install using the Infinity mounting spacer, and the standard screws, DON'T tighten them all up as you need the play in the speaker-to-spacer screws to get a screwdriver on the spacer-to-door screws! You'll need to cut out the sealing rubber to allow the connecting wires to run OK.
You have to be very careful to angle the speaker so the side with the connections goes into the spacer first, otherwise you'll bend them or worse.
The tweeters mounted easily onto the standard scooby mounting brackets - if you don't have these, take a careful look ahead of the door handleand you'll see 2 screws - make up a sheet-metal bracket that rins butween these and angles the tweeters towards your ear.
Beware - my tweeters came with the bayonet-mount already on them - it took a while of careful fiddling to get them off so we could put a screw through the bayonet mount. You will need countersunk bolts, OR use the self-tappers provided with a piece of plastic - e.g. the spine of a pack of rawlplugs. 2 bodge points but works.
To mount the crossover, get 2 pieces (1 packet) of mounting strip (looks like meccano) from Halfords, mount it to the nut above the rear of the kidney-shaped hole in the doorskin which holds part of the window mechanism, and drill a hole in the flange at the bottom of the doorskin hole. You'll need to bend the strip to make it fit nicely. Then grease or waxoyl the hole you've drilled!
The crossover mount will be outside the plastic sheet, though you'll need to cut a slit in this, so install it AFTER you've done your dynamatting.
You will need to extend the input and the tweeter wires to reach the crossover in this position. Time for connectors and crimpers! Oh and the +ve is the red and yellow speaker wire on an MY00, but to chack yours trace the wires from the ISO output on the headunit to the subaru loom. Fun - not.
Once you've fitted the wires to the crossover, grease or vaseline the contacts!
To Dynamat the doors, what I did was this
(This assumes that the speaker is out as you need to get your hand through the hole to do all this!)
Carefully peel back the bottom half of the
Starting with a 4 SQ foot piece, about an 8 or 10 inch wide piece (along the short side) of the dynamat will cover the bottom third of the inner skin. Make a U-shape hole (open side at bottom) where the speaker will go. Save this piece. Then just peel part of the backing off and pregressively stick it down. Then rub it into the nooks and crannies with something round (I used the end of a screwdriver handle - the ideal tool would be one of those little hard rollers used for making lino prints. Don't worry about chopping off the bit that covers part of the "hole" as I'm sure this baffles it all nicely. Use any oddments on the flanges around the large hole in the skin.
For the outer door skin, cut what you have left into 2 (again along the short side) This will give you the right amount to go from the bottom of the skin up to the middle (where the side-impact bar is on the inside, level with the groove on the outside). For anyone of normal anatomy tho top half of the skin is out of bounds IMHO.
To install this, start at front or rear - fold the piece you have in half, fold at top, backing paper out. Peel off the backing frm the side facing you, as far as the fold, and let it hang down the back. Now put the piece into the door through the large hole, then make sure the bottom (non-sticky) edge is snugly at the bottom and corner of the door. Now fold up the folded bit, press down part od the top edge to make it stick, and you can stick it all down peeling the backing off as you go. Press it all down as before and repeat for the other (front or rear) half of the door.
Now take the piece you cut out for the speaker and stick it over the other layer, behind where the speaker will be.
You need to be a bit savvy as there's nothing Dynamat likes more than sticking to itself, but this "foldback" technique does the trick.
Lots of duck tape gets the platic sheet back down and the wires secured and flap-free.
And finally..installing the headunit:
Put several layers of insulating tape on the headunit surround before you start!
Remove the old one and its mounting, insert the new mounting, the fun comes with the wires...the OEM headunit has an ISO to Subaru adapter, the Kenwood one comes with a Kenwood to ISO adapter. You need both...that's a LOT of wire. If you just try and shove the new headunit in, it won't go. Or will at the expense of distorting the facia. What you need to do is put something (the wire to the changer, a piece of string...) up from the passenger footwell, make a neat slim bundle of the wires with a zip-tie, attach it to whatever you're using to pull it through, and pull the wires down and left as you slide the headunit in.
If you need to lift carpets to run wires - easy-peasy - there's a fastener in th passenger footwell, and four little fasteners in the kick-plate, to remove the whole kick-plate trim, then you will see some little white clips underneath the staples on the carpet - 2 seconds with your trusty electrician's screwdriver and voila. The black clips on the white cable-run are press-on screw-off. Suits you sir!
Looks like the footwell area is a good candidate for some dynamat action.
It took me a lot longer to work all this out than it's just done to type it - hope it's useful!
The setup sounds great - well worth the spend on the Kappas.
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