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Fitted Head Unit & Sub What Next

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Old 21 February 2005, 07:24 PM
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6 pot
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Default Fitted Head Unit & Sub What Next

Fitted an Alpine CDA9833R over the weekend along with a 10' Sub + Amp, me thinks that the front speakers now need to be upgraded.

Should I upgrade fronts only or front and back and is it neccesary to use dymat on the inside of the doors to stop them from vibrating.

What type of fronts should I go for and if rears are needed what should they be.

Only just getting into this ICE thing and didn't realise how involved it can be.

At least it sounds better than the factory head unit.

Thanks

6 pot
Old 21 February 2005, 07:54 PM
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BigRed
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OK mate,the OEM speaker are crap, in MY00 classic I replaced just the fronts and removed the rears so that the sub can 'breathe' better.This improves the sound stage ,although anyone in the back hears just the sub. I went for Infinty 605's as they fit straight into the standard holes, no packers needed. You just have to fit the tweeters and cross-over , my tweeters are on the small triangle near the door mirrors and the x-overs are fitted between the door card and the moisture barrier, they JUST fit.

It is essential that you have dynamat or a good equivalent(I have Brown Bread)fitted to you doors and also boot area, it don't just stop the rattles but also improves sound quality and depth.

Have you thought about amping the fronts?? This makes one hell of a difference to sound quality and clarity, I know this involves another amp, wiring ETC but it is well worth the trouble.
Old 21 February 2005, 09:15 PM
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6 pot
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Originally Posted by BigRed
OK mate,the OEM speaker are crap, in MY00 classic I replaced just the fronts and removed the rears so that the sub can 'breathe' better.This improves the sound stage ,although anyone in the back hears just the sub. I went for Infinty 605's as they fit straight into the standard holes, no packers needed. You just have to fit the tweeters and cross-over , my tweeters are on the small triangle near the door mirrors and the x-overs are fitted between the door card and the moisture barrier, they JUST fit.

It is essential that you have dynamat or a good equivalent(I have Brown Bread)fitted to you doors and also boot area, it don't just stop the rattles but also improves sound quality and depth.

Have you thought about amping the fronts?? This makes one hell of a difference to sound quality and clarity, I know this involves another amp, wiring ETC but it is well worth the trouble.
I will do the fronts first + dynamat and see how it sounds, any advice on removing the door panels?
Old 22 February 2005, 07:15 PM
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Yes mate, is your scoob a classic??

Start by removing the window switch, the switch panel + switch should lift upwards and pull forwards, carefully!! unclip the cable from the switch. Then remove the plastic blanking plugs from around the card, some of these have screws behind them and some don't, just a plastics plug type fixing,remove the plug and the black plastic expanding plug.

After removing the plugs remove the screws behind the handle,if my memory serves me right there are only 2, they are fairly large MF's and are normally quite tight.

Then remove the small triangular piece near the door mirror by CAREFULLY levering off, I found a flat fairly wide (15mm),blunt metal object a good tool to use.

Once thats done pull the door card from the bottom away from the door, this should release the card from the plastic 'poppers' , then once popped lift the card up and it should come off.

Remove the OEM speakers by taking out the three fixing screws and unclip the cable and away you go.

Refitting is opposite to removal, just make sure that you line the card up correctly during the refit.

Enjoy your new speakers, one word of advice is that if you do use the Infinitys you may find them a little on the bright side, you can reduce this by wiring the to the -3db side of the x-over. I have set my system up to reduce this problem by tweeking some gain settings. Also these speakers like to have lots of power, I run mine on an old Kenwood KAC-923, which comes in at 100watts RMS per channel at 4ohm, and a max of 200/channel, they handle this power with ease!!!
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