12V Supply to Headunit . .
#1
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I thought it would be best to ask the following in here, rather than electrical, so here goes . . . Mod move if necessary.
How much stuff can I run of the permanent/switched 12V behing the radio? Currently I run the headunit and my defi gauge off this supply but I'm considering hardwiring my radar detector. Is there enough juice back there?
Piers LoFi
How much stuff can I run of the permanent/switched 12V behing the radio? Currently I run the headunit and my defi gauge off this supply but I'm considering hardwiring my radar detector. Is there enough juice back there?
Piers LoFi
#2
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you could be putting the wiring under a lttle to much stress
Where do you have your radar detector fitted on the dash or by the intereior mirror if the latter you caould allway take the feed from the interior light
If on the dash why not take the feed from the swithched live on the ignition that way when you start the car it will be on and vice a versa
Where do you have your radar detector fitted on the dash or by the intereior mirror if the latter you caould allway take the feed from the interior light
If on the dash why not take the feed from the swithched live on the ignition that way when you start the car it will be on and vice a versa
#3
It's all fused anyhow, so you won't blow it up
I wouldn't assume you can take significant current from there. Have a look in the fusebox and see what also powers the ICE circuit, and you'll probably a) scare yourself and b) decide that it's worth wiring in an "aux" output (fused, of course) from behind the fusebox
I wouldn't assume you can take significant current from there. Have a look in the fusebox and see what also powers the ICE circuit, and you'll probably a) scare yourself and b) decide that it's worth wiring in an "aux" output (fused, of course) from behind the fusebox
#4
I have done something similar but run it all off the cigerrette lighter...
I currently have radar detector, outside/inside temp detector light display, boost gauge light, the earth is used for a light in a switch for my amp and my mobile phone plugs into the socket too.. not a single problem.. although I did wonder if it might fuse. They all only take a small amount.. the stereo when cranked up might take more though so you could move it to the cig lighter?
JGM
I currently have radar detector, outside/inside temp detector light display, boost gauge light, the earth is used for a light in a switch for my amp and my mobile phone plugs into the socket too.. not a single problem.. although I did wonder if it might fuse. They all only take a small amount.. the stereo when cranked up might take more though so you could move it to the cig lighter?
JGM
#5
it all depends on how thick the wire is behind your headunit. Thick = good, thin = bad. Run what you have in there for a while with the stereo turned up and see how hot the wire gets, if it stays quite cold your fine,if its really hot then its no good. The fuse will blow,but only on a short circuit or if its to much power staight away. It maybe fine and until you turn up your stereo and it draws more power and the wire slowly gets hotter,thats when fires are caused. If in doubt fit an exta wire from the battery,its dead easy and hardly costs anything.
#6
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I've moved my radar detector up by the rear view mirror, have used one of the map lights to feed and switch the detector on and off, much more discreet fitting plus probably gives the detector a better view both ways.
simon
simon
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Thanks all, that gives me a number of ideas/things to try.
PCB - if you have taken power from the map reading light and can use the light button to turn the detector on and off (sounds cool) does this mean you've removed the bulb for the reading light or you drive around with the interior light on?
Piers LoFi
PCB - if you have taken power from the map reading light and can use the light button to turn the detector on and off (sounds cool) does this mean you've removed the bulb for the reading light or you drive around with the interior light on?
Piers LoFi
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