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Unable to remove my 1998 sti type r engine.....why???

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Old 16 February 2014, 11:48 PM
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jumbomechanic
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Default Unable to remove my 1998 sti type r engine.....why???

Hi guys,

Currently in process of engine rebuild for my 1998 sti type r.

I'm trying to remove the engine first for ease before I strip it down - however, it's unbolted from gearbox, and seperated by approx 1 inch, but I just can't move it any further to get it out??

Any ideas??

I'm pretty sure everything is disconnected so I don't know what's the issue?

Do I have to do anything with the clutch fork etc or is that just later models??

I'm gettin really frustrated, so any help would be great! Thanks
Old 16 February 2014, 11:53 PM
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markb5888
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yes mate you need to release clutch fork. there is a 10mm allen key cap to unscrew. near startermotor then you srew a 6mm bolt into rod and pull it out from clutch fork
Old 16 February 2014, 11:55 PM
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As you look at the engine from the front of the car. On the right hand side of the gearbox, you'll see a allen headed bolt quite near to the bellhousing. Remove the bolt.

Inside there's a clutch retaining pin, Use a bolt (M6 If i remember correctly) ( One of the TMIC support bracket bolt's works a treat)

Insert into the hole left by the recently removed Allen headed bolt, Gently locate the thread on the retaining pin, and remove.

Probably best to have the engine flush with the gearbox again to make it that bit easier
Old 17 February 2014, 01:53 AM
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scoobyJim2
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Originally Posted by markb5888
yes mate you need to release clutch fork. there is a 10mm allen key cap to unscrew. near startermotor then you srew a 6mm bolt into rod and pull it out from clutch fork
As above^^ but after you've removed this pivot bar which the clutch fork pivots on you have to lift the clutch fork out of the thrust bearing too. There should be a video on youtube of edd on wheelers & dealers doing a clutch change on an impreza and he shows you how to do remove pivot bar
Old 17 February 2014, 06:25 AM
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jumbomechanic
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Thanks so much guys - ill do this later and let you know!

I really appreciate your help - THANK YOU!
Old 17 February 2014, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jumbomechanic
Thanks so much guys - ill do this later and let you know!

I really appreciate your help - THANK YOU!
good luck! I used a block of wood on the header and jacked front of engine up. Just to stop it moving too much when wiggling box off.might help a bit with the angle too
Old 17 February 2014, 12:32 PM
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SWEENEYWRX
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I'm pretty sure the process was carried out as described above by Ed China on wheeler dealers, it was a bug but I'd imagine it'll be the same, or at least very close! The episode will be on YouTube etc
Old 17 February 2014, 05:36 PM
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No it wasn't he did a clutch change and did it the hard way by dropping the box
Old 17 February 2014, 05:37 PM
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Edit sorry yes it would have still had to do the pivot
Old 17 February 2014, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stedee
No it wasn't he did a clutch change and did it the hard way by dropping the box
How do you do a clutch change without dropping box? Surely box needs to be out the way to realign/centralise new clutch friction plate with input shaft.you need room to get alignment tool in.
Old 17 February 2014, 11:31 PM
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Remove rad and pull engine forward. Saves being on your back. On a good day I could do a clutch in 3 hours maybe less if I went for it.
Old 17 February 2014, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stedee
Remove rad and pull engine forward. Saves being on your back. On a good day I could do a clutch in 3 hours maybe less if I went for it.
Then would have to refill/bleed coolant system and somehow pull engine forward? How do you split engine from box? This has to come off squarely from dowls and input shaft and won't come easy by tilting engine forward as you say! I agree it is a pig doing this on your back though!
Old 17 February 2014, 11:42 PM
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when i done my clutch i lifted engine right out. made replacing my rocker cover gaskets and up-pipe gaskets a walk in the park.

Last edited by markb5888; 17 February 2014 at 11:43 PM.
Old 17 February 2014, 11:49 PM
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my94wrx
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i have always took the engine out when doing the clutch on a subaru and never had a problem refilling the coolant after.
Old 18 February 2014, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by my94wrx
i have always took the engine out when doing the clutch on a subaru and never had a problem refilling the coolant after.
Well I've replaced engine and the gearbox on separate occasions at home on my driveway and i know which I'd prefer to do,even if I had to do it on my back
Old 18 February 2014, 04:13 PM
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After you have done it a few times it becomes really easy compared to most clutch jobs
Old 18 February 2014, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stedee
After you have done it a few times it becomes really easy compared to most clutch jobs
Just not sure how you're separating engine from gearbox by tilting engine forward.like I've said they have to come apart squarley so surely engine mounts have to be removed and engine lifted/slid forward not just pulled/tilted forward.
Old 24 February 2014, 09:26 AM
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jumbomechanic
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ITS OUT!!!

Just wanted to say a big thank you for your help guys - the engine came out easily after doing what you said!!

Now just need to work out where and how to start stripping down the engine!!!??

Thanks
Old 24 February 2014, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jumbomechanic
ITS OUT!!!

Just wanted to say a big thank you for your help guys - the engine came out easily after doing what you said!!

Now just need to work out where any how to start stripping down the engine!!!??

Thanks
Well done! Now its inlet off, headers off, cam belt off,all the pulley wheels off,rockers then heads. Theres a cover behind flywheel for accessing gudgeon pin on piston on one side
Old 24 February 2014, 04:55 PM
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i would slacken the cam shaft pulley bolts before taking the belt off, it will save you a lot of hassle.
Old 24 February 2014, 08:17 PM
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jumbomechanic
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Great! Thanks guys!

Any further hints/tips or things to watch out for?
Old 25 February 2014, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jumbomechanic
Great! Thanks guys!

Any further hints/tips or things to watch out for?
Depends what you already know lol. To get pistons out,once gudgeon pin/s is out rotate the crank so the small end of con-rod drops out of piston,then on its rotation back up it pushes on bottom of piston making it protrude from cylinder enough to get hold of with your finger tips to remove. Ol yea Try not to mix shells up that hold cam down. Probably is a couple of other things, my phone battery about ti die lol
Old 25 February 2014, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jumbomechanic
Great! Thanks guys!

Any further hints/tips or things to watch out for?
Depends what you already know lol. To get pistons out,once gudgeon pin/s is out rotate the crank so the small end of con-rod drops out of piston,then on its rotation back up it pushes on bottom of piston making it protrude from cylinder enough to get hold of with your finger tips to remove. Ol yea Try not to mix shells up that hold cam down. Probably is a couple of other things, my phone battery about ti die lol
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