Hi All, recently picked up some second hand Prosport "touch" gauges for my 2005 STI.

Ended up with Oil Pressure, Boost Pressure and Water Temp - but I really wanted Oil Temp so bought that one brand new, leaving the water temp spare (for now).

I'll be looking at hopefully wiring/plumbing in this weekend. I got an adaptor to take both Oil pressure and temperature from the cylinder 3 bung but the wiring for my oil pressure sensor is catching me out at the moment.

Prosport instructions describe a plug which has three wires (red/black/white) which should plug into the oil pressure sensor, however what I've got is a new oil pressure sensor with two terminals on it. The terminals are labelled "Gauge" and "Ground".

Any idea for wiring this back to the gauge? If I'm to use the wiring I got with the gauge (with the three wires and the plug), I can chop the plug off and solder terminals no problem - but not sure which of the three wires to use for ground, the gauge and then a spare(?)

 

You're doing it wrong, probably.

Is this, or similar, the adaptor you have bought?



If so, it's nothing to do with the oil temp, it fits where the OEM pressure switch is, behind the alternator, and allows you to fit both the OEM switch and sender for the gauge.

You need a different fitting for the oil temp sender to fit in the cylinder 3 location.

This has been covered many times on here already.

Can't help with the wiring though, don't have and wouldn't have Prosports.

 

As above: that adaptor goes where the OE oil PESSURE switch is, allowing an oversize sender to fit, and the retention of the O/P switch if required...though why you would want to is beyond me.

The oil TEMPERATURE sender goes in the threads above cylinder 3, and needs it's own separate adaptor, usually brass or alloy.

It's shown at top left in this kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-PRESSU...item51b7db9424

As for the wiring, it sounds like you have the wrong adaptor for the gauge. I'd be asking the seller.

 

Thanks Micky, I've misunderstood the description from the Rspec site then:

http://rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensor-adap...or-kit-1-8-npt

I was expecting to simply disconnect the OEM pressure sensor, but now that I think of it - I guess that would result in the oil light constantly being on!

So the adaptor I get allows me to run oil pressure sensor AND the OEM pressure sensor from beneath the alternator, then the temp goes above Cyl3 with an additional bung.

Makes more sense

 

Seller couldn't sell me the sender he used because the insurance company had his car, so I bought the sender new from Rspec.

Sounds like I need to ask Rspec what wiring to use for it

Cheers fellas.

 

The oil pressure sensor you have bought, as per link, is not the one that the cable you've also linked to is intended for. The cable shows a pretty standard 3 pin connector, with ground, +5V and signal, and that's what most gauges are wired for.

You probably need this one

 

I got the oil pressure sensor, and OEM switch plumbed in today. I did end up buying a different sensor from RSpec.

Had to dismantle and rebuild a couple of times due to leaks. I PTFE taped all of the "new stuff" that I plugged in, but neglected to dismantle and PTFE/torque the adaptor joints together

Seems fine now though, half a litre of oil later

Oil Pressure seemed to come on at 6bar initially, then drop to 3bar at idle - with the promise of dropping further if I left it long enough. Pressure rose back up to 6ish when blipping the throttle - will take it out later for a blast to see how it looks.

What's a sensible pressure to set my warning for on the gauge? I don't want it beeping at hot idle - but I want it to be useful in the event of an oil surge on track etc!

 

Glad you've got them fitted and working.

 

Mine is a fully forged engine. On cold start-up, I see 7-8bar and 4bar on tickover.
Once nice and hot and it's 6bar, and 2.3bar on tickover.

I've therefore set my alarm at 2.0bar.
I've set my oil temperature alarm at 110deg C. It usually sits at 90.

HTH.

 

Thanks alcazar, after a few journeys I'm beginning to learn the patterns and so far nothing seems too scary.

Cold idle is just over 6bar, Hot idle has been as low as 2.1, when hooning around its pretty solid at 6.5.

Any idea what pressure has to drop to for the OEM switch to activate? Is it literally 0bar?

 

I seem to think 1 bar, which is only 14 or so PSI.

 

Atmospheric pressure then? Useful...

 

It's more commonly known as the engines fcuked light.

 

Is higher oil pressure a good thing? Im only seeing 1.9 bar on hot idle.

 

A lot will depend on the engine, the build if it's been rebuilt, and the age.
Oh, and the type of oil and IT'S age.

1.9bar is fine. It's still about 26psi.

 

Did the oil temperature tonight, fck me that Cyl 3 bung was in tight - properly scary applying that much pressure on an allen socket.

In though, and after what felt like 9 hours trying to navigate the TMIC back on (i'll never get the hang of it) I could go for a test drive.

Stops solid at 90 degrees, sure I can get it higher on a track day but seems healthy to me

 

+1 on the bloody TMIC!

Fitted all my gauges at the weekend and that bit was a ballache!....Until I removed the black support arm that's attached to the intake manifold! Then it just went straight back on!

 

I still remember the god-awful cracking noise the bung on mine made when it released. I was sure I'd broken it, or the Allen key!

 

Yep, presumably the locktite - it was like a gun going off.

As I cracked it, I'd also hit the switching thingy on my socket wrench so I was left dazed with a socket wrench which was now set to anti clockwise mode, hands shaking - I daren't look down

So relieved to see the allen key in one piece, and the bung loose - was still a tense 10mins or so as I verified that the thread in the engine block wasn't destroyed.

I hate tight bolts, is there a trick to not ****ing it up or do I need to keep being lucky?

 

Shouldn't have had any Locktite, it should just have thread tape from the factory.

It's a bitch of a job to do though.