My first problem with the scooby :-( only had her just over a week too :-(

Last night i was having a little bit of a spirited drive, then i noticed that the power didnt seem to be as savage as it normally is. So i put it down to be being heatsoaked or hot or something.

Have come to use the car this morning, obviously hoping that its cooled down and all is well.....

On the boost guage at full boost it reads 20psi or just over. But after it seemed to loose power last night its night struggling to reach 10PSI

Where do i start trying to diagnose the problem?

I can see this getting expensive :-(

 

Maybe an air leak fella. Check all the pipe work, and clips around your intercooler and inlet pipe. Maybe a simple fix?

 

Check all pipes. Split boost pipes vac pipes ect.

 

Had a look and all appears to he in order from what I can see. Can't see any pipes off or anything

 

start with pipe works defo as this could be an easy fix. after that look at actuators and boost solinoids

could even be a split boost gauge pipe in cabin, drive without the radio off and see if u notice a sucking sound

 

you havent put some crap fuel in have you ?

 

Not noticed it but will check is that only under boost all the time?

No it's shell v power that is in there

 

Well Iv fixed it.... couldn't find any leaks or splits so I thought I would try resetting the ECU as a possibility, appears to have cured it

The question now though is why would the ECU do this? Has it placed its self in limp mode or something?

 

maybe you over boosted at some point ??

 

If it was in limp mode you should have a check engine light and it won't rev over 4500rpm.

 

[QUOTE=reedy107;11292318]over boost ??[/QUOTE

Its a possibility I guess, ill just have to keep my eye on it and see what happens. It mustn't have liked something I or the motor was doing so threw it into limp mode.

I would try and recreate the situation but I dare not!

 

No light or no Rev limit.


Was reading on NASIOC that it happens when you do something it doesn't like and then it will just go to wastegate boost which is around 7-8psi or something along the lines of that.

 

have you got a boost gauge ?

if not get one in asap

 

Yeah I have one installed. Hence why I knew it was boosting at 8 rather than 18! LOL

Im glad its fixed but a little paranoid its going to happen again now!

 

Seems a reasonable explanation from NASIOC... will be giving the MAF a clean.


I had exactly the same problem for over a year. Your engine is knocking causing the ECU to reduce the DAM/IAM value to zero, which cuts off boost control leaving you at wastegate boost only (around 8psi). Resetting the ECU puts the IAM value at 0.5 (or 0.75, depends on MY and tune) - when the ECU detects knock it reduces this ignition multiplier value - when it falls below 0.5, boost control is shut off.

For me, the solution (after changing pretty much everything on the car) was that I had a dirty MAF sensor. Take your MAF sensor out and get some CRC carb cleaner and clean it thoroughly; note that there are two sensors inside the MAF, the obvious one that you see with two wires and a bulb is the intake temp sensor (clean that too). The MAF sensor itself is deeper into the plastic, use a flashlight to see it - it's 3 small wires. Use the red straw on the carb cleaner and spray it thoroughly.

If that doesn't help, check for vacuum leaks or hoses popped off. A big culprit is the FPR vacuum hose which is located immediately to the left of the throttle body. I'd recommend buying an openport cable or accessport as it really helps in diagnosing these problems...I can give you some direction on what to look for if you have either already.