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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 11:18 AM
  #1  
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From: Gone Dark
Default Engine back in

Hi,
Does anyone have any advice on the best way to put the engine back in?.
I'm not sure about...
Reconnecting the clutch fork
Lining up the starter motor to the flywheel

Is it generally harder to put it back in as it was to remove?.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 12:03 PM
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Pop the clutch fork back in when there's a couple of inches between the engine and gearbox. Starter motor does not need lining up. The whole process is pretty straight forward and should go back together without a lot of force.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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The main thing is to keep the gap between the bell housing and gearbox equal all the way around as you put it together.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:50 PM
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Install the release bearing, clutch fork and pin onto the gearbox before installing the engine.

Once the engine is fitted and connected to the gearbox, you can just push the clutch fork arm back towards the slave cylinder, and the release bearing will click (and lock) into the clutch cover plate.

Make sure you get the engine perfectly lined up with the box as you install, and you shouldn't have any trouble getting the locating dowels engaged by hand before doing up the bell housing bolts. - it can help to put the gearbox into gear to hold the input shaft still.

Starter doesn't need lining up.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 05:52 PM
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Hmmm, I appear to have dowels on the block in the same place as on the gearbox?

Its a '94 CDB going onto a DCCD 1998 box.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 06:01 PM
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Then just pull half of them out, you muppet.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ditchmyster
Then just pull half of them out, you muppet.
lol

as he says,id say some have stayed in the box and the others in the block on removal.


pull them out and make sure you have a full set in the box and none in the block and refit
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Lol, I didn't even contemplate that they'd just pull out

Leave me alone lol, I hit my funnybone on the crank pulley.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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make sure to pull the arm back onto the engine before using the clutch pedal as the cylinder will pop out of the end and dump clutch fluid everywhere if you dont!
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
make sure to pull the arm back onto the engine before using the clutch pedal as the cylinder will pop out of the end and dump clutch fluid everywhere if you dont!
Lol, speaking from experience?.
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Oh yes, took me hours to refill and bleed the clutch by myself, defintely not a one handed job!
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:23 PM
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Glad I'm not the only one who makes mistakes
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:26 PM
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We are all human mate! It wont be the first or the last time it happens!
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwik
Lol, I didn't even contemplate that they'd just pull out

Leave me alone lol, I hit my funnybone on the crank pulley.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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Ok so clutch this time. It's an exedy pink bought from a member on here. Does the raised side with the springs go towards the gearbox or towards the block?
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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my old boss had a saying when it come to fitting clutches...... if in doubt, thick side out
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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From: Gone Dark
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Out being toward the gearbox?
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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yes mate, the thicker side towards the gear box
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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From: Gone Dark
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So top rather than bottom?




excuse the poor pictures.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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Second photo is the correct way

Mick
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 08:47 PM
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As per usual Mick to the rescue .

I read that was the way to fit it, so I refitted the engine. I held the plate in place whilst I tightened up the pressure plate IE no clutch alignment tool. As I pushed the engine back to the bell housing I turned the crank pulley a little and the block then slid back. The block has lined up to the bell housing, am I to take it all is OK?
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 08:55 PM
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Pull back the clutch fork and sort out the clutch mechanism then try selecting gears etc and see if it works
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