Can a starter motor be fixed ?
#1
Can a starter motor be fixed ?
As the cheapest is around £80-£100, can the bushes etc be replace easily enough, i know the starter can be taken apart as i have done so, but didnt dealve much further to see if the bushes or whatever makes the starter stick, to be replaced
so, can you buy the bits and do it or is it a no no and you cant get the bits ?
so, can you buy the bits and do it or is it a no no and you cant get the bits ?
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
IF you can get the bits, yes, it's relatively easy. I removed one that was full of diesel when the fuel filter leaked on our Xantia. The starter wasn't working.
Removed it, stripped it, cleaned it all out and refitted it: away it went.
You could ask a decent car electrics place for advice re parts.
Removed it, stripped it, cleaned it all out and refitted it: away it went.
You could ask a decent car electrics place for advice re parts.
#3
Scooby Regular
don't know but some places will sell you a reconditioned one or recondition your's, don't know if it can be done by "joe public" or maybe special tools needed.
I got a recon'ed one years ago and it lasted for several years and I think it only cost me £20
windyboy
I got a recon'ed one years ago and it lasted for several years and I think it only cost me £20
windyboy
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
My first job was recconing HGV starter motors....the answer is yes. The problem is obtaining the parts. Not easy on Jap car stuff.
Anyhoo a quick starter motor recon 101:
Solonoid cap is usually the main curlprit as the switch inside it corrodes. You'll get a "click" and nothing else. It just solders on normally (need a powerful solder iron though)
Solonoid itself is usually the second curlprit in causing non-engagement, sometimes the slide mechanism on the motor shaft siezes (part of teh pinion gear), which doesn't help and cuases rough enagement.
Pinion gear free-wheel mechanism usually seizes, usually part of the pinion gear again causes dodgy engagement and noise.
Brushes usually ok, springs can break/corrode/bend though causing bad contact. If the brushes are worn out, suspect dodgy windings/commutator.
Commutator - polish it with a scotchbrite pad.
Brass bushings usually make it noisy, just press in/out with a vice using the new bush as a drift (push out the old bush and press in the new one in one go).
Brake mechanism, can break up and fall apart. Somtimes you can leave it out; they don't do much anyway.
Anyhoo a quick starter motor recon 101:
Solonoid cap is usually the main curlprit as the switch inside it corrodes. You'll get a "click" and nothing else. It just solders on normally (need a powerful solder iron though)
Solonoid itself is usually the second curlprit in causing non-engagement, sometimes the slide mechanism on the motor shaft siezes (part of teh pinion gear), which doesn't help and cuases rough enagement.
Pinion gear free-wheel mechanism usually seizes, usually part of the pinion gear again causes dodgy engagement and noise.
Brushes usually ok, springs can break/corrode/bend though causing bad contact. If the brushes are worn out, suspect dodgy windings/commutator.
Commutator - polish it with a scotchbrite pad.
Brass bushings usually make it noisy, just press in/out with a vice using the new bush as a drift (push out the old bush and press in the new one in one go).
Brake mechanism, can break up and fall apart. Somtimes you can leave it out; they don't do much anyway.
Last edited by ALi-B; 14 February 2013 at 06:32 PM.
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