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Old 13 December 2012, 11:54 PM
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t4and greys
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Default Crank question

Hi all apologies if this has been asked a million times before ,did use the search function to no avail

My question is are centre and rear thust cranks interchangeable or not ...
Just got a bugeye with a blown bottom end (dreaded knock) so on lookout for either bottom end or decent crank on std grind that's useable .....

Now here's my dilemma been offered a perfect crank but its a centre thrust from a classic ,and after a bit of digging I'm told mine is rear thrust being a 52 plate car. Is it possible to use a centre thrust crank and rods in my rear thrust block without issues or is it not feasible.

Cheers !
Old 14 December 2012, 12:42 AM
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merlin24
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Crank, No - Rods, yes

Mick
Old 14 December 2012, 01:05 AM
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t4and greys
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Cheers merlin that's scuppered that then ...
My next question is can I use a sport crank that is rear thrust as I'm hoping there's a slim chance they maybe the same crank as long as its rear thrust like my original crank .?
Old 14 December 2012, 01:26 AM
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philS scooby
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You could if you got your block machined for centre thrust, but the centre thrust cranks are normally a lot weaker than rear thrust in my experiance
Old 14 December 2012, 07:44 AM
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Crank here for rear thrust application

https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...-new-post.html

Decent price also
Old 14 December 2012, 09:47 AM
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PhilS how comes I see many strokers that use centre thrust if its potentially weaker ? confused .com.

I understand why the rear thrust may be considered stronger due to drag and take up from flywheel end
Old 14 December 2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Infected by sti
Crank here for rear thrust application

https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...-new-post.html

Decent price also
Cheers show how crap I am with the search function lol as couldn't find owt lol

Am on it now and gonna pm him but I feel the size of the rattle I have I may need a rod or two also. Is it common for these to be fubarrd when a crank gets wiped out as in past experience with other engines this can be the case ??

Cheers for the heads up on crank tho appreciate it

Last edited by t4and greys; 14 December 2012 at 09:58 AM.

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Old 14 December 2012, 10:15 AM
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He also got forged rods for £100

Ask him
Old 14 December 2012, 11:36 AM
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t4and greys
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Originally Posted by Infected by sti
He also got forged rods for £100

Ask him
Have done will await his reply cheers mate


Also in people's experience how often is it that the rods are goosed once your bottom end starts knocking......

Have had people tell me to factor in replacement rods also as usually thes e are knackered too ?

Haven't split the motor yet to see the damage just trying to cover worst case scenario once its out lol

Last edited by t4and greys; 14 December 2012 at 11:40 AM.
Old 14 December 2012, 01:35 PM
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Henrik
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2.0 litre new age sport crank has same part number as the 2.0 litre WRX AFAIK.
Old 14 December 2012, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by t4and greys
Have done will await his reply cheers mate


Also in people's experience how often is it that the rods are goosed once your bottom end starts knocking......

Have had people tell me to factor in replacement rods also as usually thes e are knackered too ?

Haven't split the motor yet to see the damage just trying to cover worst case scenario once its out lol
My spare engine span a shell and this was how the rod looked....
Old 24 December 2012, 12:13 AM
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cheers for the help and replys guys ,have now got a crank !!
thanks andy and also infected too for putting me onto it .....
have also purchased a set of rods too from low mileage motor to match crank...

will be a budget build as its her indoors car ,she loves scoobys and want to keep it cheap, as bought the car very cheap , had to really............. as killed her last classic which didnt go down well at all so feel its the least i can do hahah

and kwik that looks quite nasty and also like it ended up having lots of end float play also ,saying that most span shells are due to the fact no-one ever bother to crush test shells first


just need gaskets and shells now ,am assuming acl race bearings come reccomended on here as always used acl before on other cars with no issues ??

and also whilst im at it which head gaskets are reccomended for my car ,have seen multilayer steel and also the fibre type ?????

not looking for a bazillion horse power just around 250 ish and keep it fairly stock are felpro gaskets any good have used them before with no issues ??


looking forward to building it now ,plastigauge and verniers at the ready hahah


also anyone with a manual confirm these end float tolerances are correct ???
Standard, 0.030 - 0.115mm (0.0012 - 0.0045 in)
Limit, 0.25mm (0.0098 in)

Last edited by t4and greys; 24 December 2012 at 01:06 AM.
Old 24 December 2012, 07:26 AM
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Happy days

Can't help with clearances sure someone else will tho, wont go far wrong with acl bearings and the crank will handle that power all day long, I'm on standard crank and rods, same crank you have bought and its at 453/440 so plenty of room should you want that "little bit extra"
Old 24 December 2012, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by t4and greys
cheers for the help and replys guys ,have now got a crank !!
thanks andy and also infected too for putting me onto it .....
have also purchased a set of rods too from low mileage motor to match crank...

will be a budget build as its her indoors car ,she loves scoobys and want to keep it cheap, as bought the car very cheap , had to really............. as killed her last classic which didnt go down well at all so feel its the least i can do hahah

and kwik that looks quite nasty and also like it ended up having lots of end float play also ,saying that most span shells are due to the fact no-one ever bother to crush test shells first


just need gaskets and shells now ,am assuming acl race bearings come reccomended on here as always used acl before on other cars with no issues ??

and also whilst im at it which head gaskets are reccomended for my car ,have seen multilayer steel and also the fibre type ?????

not looking for a bazillion horse power just around 250 ish and keep it fairly stock are felpro gaskets any good have used them before with no issues ??


looking forward to building it now ,plastigauge and verniers at the ready hahah


also anyone with a manual confirm these end float tolerances are correct ???
Standard, 0.030 - 0.115mm (0.0012 - 0.0045 in)
Limit, 0.25mm (0.0098 in)
Yes they are correct, but i would not recommend the max limit, Don't buy the fibre gaskets, for a std build try Reinz gasket kit, multi layer steel gaskets in the kit, & very comprehensive.
Old 24 December 2012, 11:11 AM
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t4and greys
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Originally Posted by Infected by sti
Happy days

Can't help with clearances sure someone else will tho, wont go far wrong with acl bearings and the crank will handle that power all day long, I'm on standard crank and rods, same crank you have bought and its at 453/440 so plenty of room should you want that "little bit extra"

thats a nice bhp and torque figure you got there bet you that feels nice n grunty when needs be

never know she may want a bit more power later on but for now all is good (she has a cossy for power when needs be this is more the sensible family car lol )

and cheers for the heads up motors gt , and yes am hoping it will be nowere near the max endfloat limit anyway ....
and cheers for the advice on gaskets too
Old 29 January 2013, 04:49 PM
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Just a little update for anyone using the search facility in future
Have now managed to find time to split the block and found no2 conrod shell has spun quite badly in fact , which in turn has scrapped the rod aswell

Good job I bought replacement rods beforehand

The mains journals were not too bad with some scoring across no 2and no 3 ...nonetheless a new crank will be installed along with new rods too


And rod looked a lot worse than kiwis picture posted above lol ,,

Last edited by t4and greys; 29 January 2013 at 04:50 PM.
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