Bouncy Bouncy @ 80 - 100mph
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Bouncy Bouncy @ 80 - 100mph
Hi All,
i know this is quite prob the cause, anyway Bought a 04 Blob - the steering wheel is really bouncy and judery between 80 - 100 mph, i believe its because the wheels need balancing - but if this isnt the case any ideas?
i know this is quite prob the cause, anyway Bought a 04 Blob - the steering wheel is really bouncy and judery between 80 - 100 mph, i believe its because the wheels need balancing - but if this isnt the case any ideas?
#6
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I'd suggest you ignore the comment about shocks being the cause - they can knock and make noise on the newages, but I haven't encountered or heard of a scenario where they cause the car to bounce, and anyway, 99% of the time it's the rears not the fronts that fail. They don't normally "leak" either - it's usually the grease becoming compacted and solidifying.
Local dealer reckons it's due to the angle the rears are mounted at on the newage cars which causes the grease to pack into one side of the shock, at which point the shock isn't properly coated with grease and - hey presto > kadunk! <
Many also say it's the poor quality of the grease used - all I know is - it's bloody annoying when it happens - and when it happened on mine, handling wasn't enormously affected - it was just the sodding annoying noise!
Last edited by MrNoisy; 11 December 2012 at 10:44 AM.
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Just an update as i changed my normal induction box to a Cone Filter.... the dam bolts under the Box were lose - so the shaking was all because of the loose Air Box!
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lol yeah does sound stupid - but honestly the bolts were like an inch on each loose - and thats the only thing which i removed that stopped the steering shaking at high speed.
I did nothing to the Wheels yet!
Although i have noticed one of the rear tires is a different Size to the others!!!!!
Love it when my head takes over without checking before i buy lol
I did nothing to the Wheels yet!
Although i have noticed one of the rear tires is a different Size to the others!!!!!
Love it when my head takes over without checking before i buy lol
#14
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lol yeah does sound stupid - but honestly the bolts were like an inch on each loose - and thats the only thing which i removed that stopped the steering shaking at high speed.
I did nothing to the Wheels yet!
Although i have noticed one of the rear tires is a different Size to the others!!!!!
Love it when my head takes over without checking before i buy lol
I did nothing to the Wheels yet!
Although i have noticed one of the rear tires is a different Size to the others!!!!!
Love it when my head takes over without checking before i buy lol
Mate, tyres on these cars should be changed in pairs, and should all be the same size. If not, I believe the diff will probably complain and you'll get uneven tyre wear and ride and grip will likely suffer too.
These are not cheap cars to run or own, and people who cut corners by using wrong parts, cheap eBay parts or similar tend to get bitten in the ****. Just a warning that's all.
I know two people who've gone down similar routes and then been astonished when their cheap eBay headers made less power than OEM items or their non mapped car started pissing fuel out of the exhaust when they neglected to map it after fitting bigger injectors and FMIC.
Tyres and brakes to me are the one part of these cars you should absolutely not skimp on so if you can afford to, buy yourself a couple of new tyres for the rear that are the same size and have the same tread level.
Last edited by MrNoisy; 04 January 2013 at 07:55 AM.
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Now come on it's 'tyres' - we're not American yet, despite our government's best efforts
Mate, tyres on these cars should be changed in pairs, and should all be the same size. If not, I believe the diff will probably complain and you'll get uneven tyre wear and ride and grip will likely suffer too.
These are not cheap cars to run or own, and people who cut corners by using wrong parts, cheap eBay parts or similar tend to get bitten in the ****. Just a warning that's all.
I know two people who've gone down similar routes and then been astonished when their cheap eBay headers made less power than OEM items or their non mapped car started pissing fuel out of the exhaust when they neglected to map it after fitting bigger injectors and FMIC.
Tyres and brakes to me are the one part of these cars you should absolutely not skimp on so if you can afford to, buy yourself a couple of new tyres for the rear that are the same size and have the same tread level.
Mate, tyres on these cars should be changed in pairs, and should all be the same size. If not, I believe the diff will probably complain and you'll get uneven tyre wear and ride and grip will likely suffer too.
These are not cheap cars to run or own, and people who cut corners by using wrong parts, cheap eBay parts or similar tend to get bitten in the ****. Just a warning that's all.
I know two people who've gone down similar routes and then been astonished when their cheap eBay headers made less power than OEM items or their non mapped car started pissing fuel out of the exhaust when they neglected to map it after fitting bigger injectors and FMIC.
Tyres and brakes to me are the one part of these cars you should absolutely not skimp on so if you can afford to, buy yourself a couple of new tyres for the rear that are the same size and have the same tread level.
The car was just bought, this is the state i have the car in...
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i had the same issue start today... tried closing the ashtray but did not work (sorry) :P anyway... on all serious notes now: i took it to the garage and turns out my brake discs are worped so... its booked in garage tomorrow for new discs and pads all round (went for PAGID cheap but efficient for my needs) also having all 4 wheels balanced and left tyres going on front and others on rear as for some reason left side has worn quicker then right? ..... my car also had suspension check, shock check, prop shafts checked, engine mounts checked and brake tests hopefully will fix the issue but will update tomorrow... p.s if anyone else is after pagid discs and pads www.eurocarparts.co.uk have 30% off pagid discs and pads at the moment mine cost £126... and then £80 at garage for fitting! so £206 all in not bad... and o yeah mines NON-TURBO so dont need all these fancy brakes that sing and dance sorry for long message...
#17
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i had the same issue start today... tried closing the ashtray but did not work (sorry) :P anyway... on all serious notes now: i took it to the garage and turns out my brake discs are worped so... its booked in garage tomorrow for new discs and pads all round (went for PAGID cheap but efficient for my needs) also having all 4 wheels balanced and left tyres going on front and others on rear as for some reason left side has worn quicker then right? ..... my car also had suspension check, shock check, prop shafts checked, engine mounts checked and brake tests hopefully will fix the issue but will update tomorrow... p.s if anyone else is after pagid discs and pads www.eurocarparts.co.uk have 30% off pagid discs and pads at the moment mine cost £126... and then £80 at garage for fitting! so £206 all in not bad... and o yeah mines NON-TURBO so dont need all these fancy brakes that sing and dance sorry for long message...
Similar. Try rubbing your discs down and cleaning them.
Read here
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
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had brakes done anyway turned out my front o/s caliper was siezed meaning the pad was on constant so... this was un-siezed and brakes are 100x better now also had all wheels balanced (as best they could as all rims are buckled PREVIOUS OWNER) LOL. But so far all seems well no more shakeing or bouncing... before i bought my impreza it had been sat for a month or 2 so maybe this is why it siezed i recommend doing the above post before going to a garage as this could solve all your problems meaning no garage BILLS meaning more MODS
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