Still leaking coolant.
#1
Still leaking coolant.
So I recently i've been having a heat problem with my car a few weeks. After getting out after a long drive there's just a smell of burning coolant and the bonnet is awfully hot.
Took it into a garage and had a coolant flush, where it was discovered there wasn't much coolant in it at all.
Then everything was fine for a week, then same problem started happening this time with a gurgling / boiling sound.
Took it in again and had a full service done Oil, Cambelt and Spark plugs since these needed doing any way and in the process the coolant was drained and replaced again.
Then everything was fine for a week, just pulled up to a petrol station. Noticed the burning coolant smell again and noticed it was pissing coolant out the expansion tank. Opened the bonnet and watched it shut down on the turbo timer and smoke/steam started rising from the area at the base of the cambelt cover.
Why does this keep happening?
Took it into a garage and had a coolant flush, where it was discovered there wasn't much coolant in it at all.
Then everything was fine for a week, then same problem started happening this time with a gurgling / boiling sound.
Took it in again and had a full service done Oil, Cambelt and Spark plugs since these needed doing any way and in the process the coolant was drained and replaced again.
Then everything was fine for a week, just pulled up to a petrol station. Noticed the burning coolant smell again and noticed it was pissing coolant out the expansion tank. Opened the bonnet and watched it shut down on the turbo timer and smoke/steam started rising from the area at the base of the cambelt cover.
Why does this keep happening?
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (16)
Sounds like air lock mate you can try refilling the coolant through the small hose from the header tank I hear people who have probs do that . Iv never had a prob just refilling through tank letting her run squeezing bottom hose with cap off with heating on full blast for 10 mins then refitting cap . If All that fails do a head gasket sniff test
#4
I'll check.
What is the sniff test?
My friend thinks the head gasket is blown.
Would they have gone near the head gasket when doing the service because the timings line up well.
What is the sniff test?
My friend thinks the head gasket is blown.
Would they have gone near the head gasket when doing the service because the timings line up well.
#6
Sounds like air lock mate you can try refilling the coolant through the small hose from the header tank I hear people who have probs do that . Iv never had a prob just refilling through tank letting her run squeezing bottom hose with cap off with heating on full blast for 10 mins then refitting cap . If All that fails do a head gasket sniff test
Mine doesn't work because my heater matrix is bypassed as it was leaking and it's too expensive to get it repaired just to have heating in the car.
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#13
Also I'm not quite following. Are people saying that bypassing the heater matrix CAUSED the blown gasket or the fact that the matrix was leaking and needed to be bypassed was a symptom of a gasket about to blow?
#14
It will be a lot more than that £290, although these cars are great value for money to buy compared to cars of similar power, they cost a fortune to run & maintain. This is why only true enthusiasts are able to stick with it long term. To get it done properly you'll probably need £1200 Inc shells.
#15
Bypassing the matrix isn't a problem. Although a blown matrix can be a symptom of HG failure, it can also cause it by the coolant level running low causing overheating.
#17
LMFAO £500. Maybe a DIY job, but if the OP was capable of that I doubt he'd be asking for advice on here. Crank bearing shells are a common failure after HG failure.
#18
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
agreed, when total head gasket failure occurs, crank bearings commonly follow due to low oil pressure and water in the oil. In this case its taking a week for it to get a little boil on. From my experience he will probs get away with just changing gaskets. And mechanics must see you coming if you think 500 is to cheap
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Absolutly not mate. If its done properly and you use good quality parts it will be fine. Dont let people scare monger you about it, find yourself somebody who is handy with cars (everyone knows some one) and get them to do it. Its an easy job to do i dont see any reason you dont have a go yourself tbh
#21
#22
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (16)
Api, sc and engine tuner I believe all advise a shell change when doing hg s. 500 to take engine out , remove heads , skim and pressure test gonna be a 100 if you lucky, hg s are 100 quid, oil 50 , head bolts prob at least 50 , inlet manifold gasket 10, coolant all adds up 500 is not realistic at all .
But it may not be a hg you got any Scoob specialist s near you they will know in 30 mins.
But it may not be a hg you got any Scoob specialist s near you they will know in 30 mins.
#23
Absolutly not mate. If its done properly and you use good quality parts it will be fine. Dont let people scare monger you about it, find yourself somebody who is handy with cars (everyone knows some one) and get them to do it. Its an easy job to do i dont see any reason you dont have a go yourself tbh
#24
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Head gaskets are not a doddle to change, it is an easy job sure, but to do it properly you need the engine out. A pair of 'proper' head gaskets - ones that are worth fitting - are, as a minimum, £125.00 + VAT a pair. Then cam seals at about 8 quid each plus VAT and a good days labour for anyone, amateur or professional, whether they work in your drive or at a workshop.
There will be other things too that pop up and bite you once it is out, not necessarily major things, but the odd few tenners here and tenners there mount up. You might find that the clutch is worn enough to need thinking about whilst it is out. So add whatever that might cost. If the belt hasn't been done recently then it would be sensible to change that too.
See the costs creeping up.
Reading between the lines I suspect that there may be damage to the head face or block top. If a Subaru is run for any amount of time with the wrong inhibitor [ antifreeze ] or the wrong amount, electrolysis sets in and rots the block or head away with the electrical charge generated. Water + aluminium + steel = Battery.
Fortunately the heater matrix doesn't fail regularly and I think we have either fitted or supplied less than ten in all the years we have been in business doing Subaru. However it is a right pita to change, the entire dash needs to come out. Cost of a good secondhand one is anywhere up to £50.00 max
Before you tear the dash out, get the engine out and heads off and see what is what. If the car has done more than 75,000 miles and is pre 2001 you must check the crank and bearings or there is every likelihood you will be doing it all again in a few weeks time. Leave the matrix for the minute, it can be dealt with later and by-passed too if necessary. It won't be much fun driving around in winter without a heater for a short while. But logically is it better to prove that there is a fault with the matrix rather than get stuck in to a dreadful job for no reason.
Good luck, what you are describing is head gasket failure no doubt.
David APi
01926 614333
#25
I'm just flogging it.
I'm 22 on min wage and it's suppose to be my daily driver. I'm not middle aged on loads of money with this as my 2nd or 2rd car. It's pretty much costing a 1/4 of it's worth in repairs every month.
I'm 22 on min wage and it's suppose to be my daily driver. I'm not middle aged on loads of money with this as my 2nd or 2rd car. It's pretty much costing a 1/4 of it's worth in repairs every month.
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