Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Hello Folks,

I've just bought a fairly low mileage 2002 Bug Eye Type UK STi. I've probably been rather naive and and let my heart rule my head as it was shiny, and naturally the test drive sealed the deal.

Having had a better look at the car once I got it home, I soon discovered the rot seen in the two photos below. This is on the driver's side, inside the front wheelarch on the one piece 'U' shaped pressed steel frame that runs all round from under both front seats to the front end below the radiator, and also on the large pressed steel crossmember that seems to go across the back of the engine. I'm afraid I don't know the right names for the parts.

There has, as you can see, been an attempt to bodge it, but it clearly hasn't worked. There are holes both above and below the rail all around the big bolt holding the two sections together, and the surrounding metal is pretty thin in most areas. The area just above the anti-roll bar bush has also gone quite badly and a split is starting to appear, but I missed that from my photos.





I've tried to have a good hunt round on here but can't find anything similar. So for my first ever query on the site (great site too!), has anyone else had similar rot on their car and if so, what did you do about it please? My gut feeling is it will need all new parts as it looks structural. At present I don't want to even drive the car, and welding looks impossible in that area due to access problems.

I didn't realise Subarus rotted like this. Perhaps all you 2002 owners might like to have a poke about in the same area this weekend, just in case.

Many thanks for your help.

serega

I'm not 100% sure but this doesnt look like a genuine subframe, look at the welding and twisting

mr smash

Replace the subframe it looks to bad to do anything with and is an MOT failure.There is plenty of subarus being broken in the for sale sections and you can probably source a nice shiney replacement pretty cheap.First though i would investigate the places where its been heavily waxoiled to make sure theye have good strength.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to you both. It has had some welding done to it which you can just see just in front of the anti-roll bar in the lower picture (plated over another hole I think), but it has a full Subaru service history and only one owner, so I believe may well be the original part. The passenger side is in much better condition.

I thought replacement was the only viable option.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

I've done a bit more scraping as you suggested and I found this:



The part with the anti-roll bar attached to it (any idea what it's called please?) looks in a pretty bad way. I assume it is a full engine out job to replace?

Thanks again for the help.

cdm1

iTrader: (5)

If it has a subaru full service history i would take it back to them and ask why this hasn't been picked up in the past?

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

that looks shockingly bad i wouldnt expect a 10yr old subframe to have rotted that bad unless it was lying at the bottom of the sea for a few years!!

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

Subaru charge customers to carry out the perforation and corrosion checks. They are not part of the routine service, or at least they weren't when I last trusted a main dealer 4 years ago

**jay**

iTrader: (1)

Ive never seen anything like that on a subaru?? looks like the subframe has been brought up from the bottom of the sea. does it has a full subaru service?
I would be wanting some answers from them if it has, as that should have been picked up on.
did it not drive badly on a test run as the anti roll bar looks like its come away altogether.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Surprisingly it drove fine. The anti-roll bar is still just attached but I had my usual MoT chap look at it yesterday and he confirmed both the crossmember and subframe would need to be replaced to make it safe.

I've now noticed a slight rattle from the engine on starting from cold, the brakes are about as good as my Mondeo's (ie mediocre at best), the exhaust is pretty far gone, oh, and most importantly, the clock doesn't work!

Other than that, it's great...!

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

I would imagine (looking at the twist) it's taken a knock that side and caused a split allowing winter salt to get at the bare metal. It looks to me like it's been like that a while though, so amazing that someone could leave it.

Ayde

iTrader: (6)

The clocks the easy one, it's a common problem and there is a fix for it, exhaust is a good excuse for a stainless one - cheap enough 2nd hand. As already said, get onto the for sale section on here, plenty being broken at the moment and I imagine you will get the part fairly cheap as it's not the most sought after part

Ayde.

kewe

iTrader: (4)

I know my brother found his subframe was rotten on his 2001 WRX and had to get it replaced. He managed to pick one up on e-bay but breakers on here might be your best bet. Seemingly the 2001/2002 models are very bad for this and a lot of people won't notice as it's covered mostly by the undertray.

Have to say the underside of my 2003 WRX looks shockingly bad compared to my previous SEAT which was an older car but still looked brand new underneath.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the helpful advice, it's very much appreciated. I'm following several 'lines of enquiry' and I'll keep you posted with progress.

Incidentally, if any of you have a car that you want to protect from doing what mine has, using something better than the traditional Waxoyl, I can recommend from first hand experience on a few earlier projects several of the products from here (and no, I don't have any connection with them other than as a customer):

http://www.bilthamber.com/index.php

I hope this is helpful.

Thanks again.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

I'm very pleased to report that I have now received a full refund from the seller of this car and it has been returned to them. As you can imagine, this is a huge relief.

As a result of this experience, I would suggest anyone thinking of buying a 2000 - 2002 Impreza has a VERY close look at the areas in the above photos before parting with any cash.

You can also find out, using the MoT (yes, it had a full one!) serial number and the registration, all about the MoTs from 2006 of any car, including the failure ones if any, from here:

http://motinfo.direct.gov.uk/interne...ry-Request.jsp

You wouldn't believe what I found out about mine from that site, but if I give you any more details, you'd be able to identify the seller and that I don't want to happen at present.

Would this topic be any good as a sticky on the site (presumptious from a newbie I know, but I hope it's been useful)?

Thanks again for the help. Once I manage to buy a decent STi, I'll be back!

Eprom

Looks like you had a lucky escape there, I have a MY99 with 130000 on the clock and there is only surface rust on the underside, I have never seen one that bad, as members have commented looks like it's come from the bottom of the sea.
good luck with your next purchase, dont be put off.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I certainly won't be.

I'll be hunting for a really good STi again in a couple of weeks (once the refund has well and truly cleared), probably a Blob this time, as even though the Bugs are my favourite shape, I'm dubious now about finding one that is rust free.

richgreenscooby1

iTrader: (2)

We have replaced a few this year (mot failures) the newages have the issue , water seams to be getting between the undertray and the subframe getting into the drain holes but rotting the subframe ...

If you have a newage id get the subframe treated before they get worse ..

rich

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

That's interesting. How many years does it affect please? Is it just the Bugs or the later cars too?

zayd

iTrader: (1)

Scoobs are not good when it comes to withstanding rust. My wife's 1999 VW Golf Turbo is like new underneath, there isn't a spot of rust on anything.

What I've found is that cars which have lived in the north of England have a lot more rust then those down south. Its apparantly becuase of the salt in the climate.

scoobyrob2002

iTrader: (2)

wax oil best way forward coated mine in the stuff took 3 hrs

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

You're quite right there. If I may make so bold though, Waxoyl's okay if you can't get anything else, but this stuff beats it hands down in every respect:

http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introd...me=dynax%20S50

scoobyrob2002

iTrader: (2)

never see that stuff b4 cheers

scoobyrob2002

iTrader: (2)

ive got a 2002 bugeye by the way you got a scooby yet mate?

Pink_Floyd

My 2002 Bug STi has a new front subframe. Subaru changed it FOC for the last owner as it was rotten.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

I did have one (see above) and once the refund has cleared, I hope to have another.

From all the information coming in about this, I'm starting to wonder if there was either a flaw in the design of the 2001 - 2 subframes leading to corrosion at the welded joints, or possibly if Subaru had a batch of poor steel when they made them that might have caused inter-granular corrosion (a classic 1980s cause of rust - Opel Manta, Mk3 Escort etc, etc.)

Bilt Hamber stuff I've used for several years and once tried, I can guarantee you'll never use anything else. The way the Dynax creeps into joints is amazing, and it never hardens and cracks like Waxoyl. They even give you a 2' tube with a turned brass nozzle on the end to get right into every possible place with the aerosols.

scoobyrob2002

iTrader: (2)

where you get it from

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Direct from the site. May well be purchasing a Winter Pack ready for the off season.

zayd

iTrader: (1)

What I know is that on the 2005 models they have made the subframes out of aluminium, so hopefullly that equals less rust.

RobsyUK

iTrader: (2)

Maybe you should post the reg up so people know its not a safe car at present