Brake Vibrations on a WR1 HELP!
#1
Brake Vibrations on a WR1 HELP!
hi, i brought a wr1 off a bloke about 4 month ago now, i was aware it had brake judder when i bought it so i got a few quid knocked off. i use it as a weekend car and iv only just got round to trying to fix this issue!
It has the brembo 4 pot calipers on, and the bloke before me has put the Ebc front discs on it.
Heres the problem,
As soon as you get any heat into the brakes, the steering shakes like mad! you can feel it through the whole car. its got to the point that its nearly impossible to hold the steering wheel still! There is slight vibration through the brake pedal also.
if you have got the discs warm and this happens, if you wait half hour or so the brakes wont be nowhere near as bad once cooled.
when going upto traffic lights and you brake slowly, you can feel the car rocked to a stop.
so i decided to have the discs skimmed/resurfaced!
i also put new mintex pads on.
seemed ok for a few hours driving, but surely enough, the judder came back!
Iv had the discs off and tried a dti gauge on the hubs, its approx 0.06mm out both sides but i cant see that being a problem. iv also cleaned behind where the discs meet the hubs. no joy!
Open to suggestions!!!!
It has the brembo 4 pot calipers on, and the bloke before me has put the Ebc front discs on it.
Heres the problem,
As soon as you get any heat into the brakes, the steering shakes like mad! you can feel it through the whole car. its got to the point that its nearly impossible to hold the steering wheel still! There is slight vibration through the brake pedal also.
if you have got the discs warm and this happens, if you wait half hour or so the brakes wont be nowhere near as bad once cooled.
when going upto traffic lights and you brake slowly, you can feel the car rocked to a stop.
so i decided to have the discs skimmed/resurfaced!
i also put new mintex pads on.
seemed ok for a few hours driving, but surely enough, the judder came back!
Iv had the discs off and tried a dti gauge on the hubs, its approx 0.06mm out both sides but i cant see that being a problem. iv also cleaned behind where the discs meet the hubs. no joy!
Open to suggestions!!!!
Last edited by Dayo; 02 September 2012 at 12:09 PM.
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#11
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iTrader: (1)
Cooked discs; Whats happened is someone has got the brakes hot and then held the car stationary a few too many times before the discs have properly heat cycled and surface hardened.
When stationary the heat from the pads/caliper is being focussed on one part of the disc, whilst the other part of the disc is open to the air. This does two things; One causes uneven pad deposits, and also surface hardens the surface disc unevenly. The thickness and uneveness of surface hardening will vary, if its bad, skimming will only temporarily fix it only for it to return a short while later as pad deposits will form more on one part of the disc than the other, as well as part of the disc wearing unevenly too. Made worse if its not bedded in properly (again).
Golden rule with new or resurfaced discs...NEVER come to a complete halt with hot brakes...just let the car crawl at 2mph when approaching traffic/red lights/junctions etc. Even repeated 40-zero stops can cause issues with some pad materials (as we see very regular on e60 BMWs as the type of people who usually drive these don't have a clue).
It can take well over 1000miles to heat cycle and bed-in a fresh set of discs. This can be even longer if the car is just used on motorways (i.e little braking) or slow city driving (not enough heat).
Also if you have worn suspension bushings, balljoints or track rods ends, the judder can be amplified when braking at certain speeds as it causes the suspension to resonate in harmony with the brake vibrations.
When stationary the heat from the pads/caliper is being focussed on one part of the disc, whilst the other part of the disc is open to the air. This does two things; One causes uneven pad deposits, and also surface hardens the surface disc unevenly. The thickness and uneveness of surface hardening will vary, if its bad, skimming will only temporarily fix it only for it to return a short while later as pad deposits will form more on one part of the disc than the other, as well as part of the disc wearing unevenly too. Made worse if its not bedded in properly (again).
Golden rule with new or resurfaced discs...NEVER come to a complete halt with hot brakes...just let the car crawl at 2mph when approaching traffic/red lights/junctions etc. Even repeated 40-zero stops can cause issues with some pad materials (as we see very regular on e60 BMWs as the type of people who usually drive these don't have a clue).
It can take well over 1000miles to heat cycle and bed-in a fresh set of discs. This can be even longer if the car is just used on motorways (i.e little braking) or slow city driving (not enough heat).
Also if you have worn suspension bushings, balljoints or track rods ends, the judder can be amplified when braking at certain speeds as it causes the suspension to resonate in harmony with the brake vibrations.
Last edited by ALi-B; 27 August 2012 at 03:24 PM.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
New discs.
If you are happy with the current Mintex pad's performance and they aren't worn or breaking up, they can be reused, just deglaze them with some p100 grit sand paper on a hard flat surface (make sure they are sanded level and evenly, otherwise it'll cause pad/piston sticking problems).
I won't make any pad/disc brand reccomendations, as when it comes to fast road pads, some suit some drivers better than others. Personal preference, but I prefer good old fashioned flat surfaced discs. I don't get on with drilled discs, as they seem to cause more problems that they solve (cracking) and grooved discs can make various noises depending on brand and style, which can be annoying.
I'll just advise to strongly follow the bedding in process of allowing the brakes to fully cool down before coming to a complete stop. Its hard to do, but it pays off in the long run.
If you are happy with the current Mintex pad's performance and they aren't worn or breaking up, they can be reused, just deglaze them with some p100 grit sand paper on a hard flat surface (make sure they are sanded level and evenly, otherwise it'll cause pad/piston sticking problems).
I won't make any pad/disc brand reccomendations, as when it comes to fast road pads, some suit some drivers better than others. Personal preference, but I prefer good old fashioned flat surfaced discs. I don't get on with drilled discs, as they seem to cause more problems that they solve (cracking) and grooved discs can make various noises depending on brand and style, which can be annoying.
I'll just advise to strongly follow the bedding in process of allowing the brakes to fully cool down before coming to a complete stop. Its hard to do, but it pays off in the long run.
Last edited by ALi-B; 27 August 2012 at 03:48 PM.
#14
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I have had the same problem. The discs are kapputt. Have a read thro this: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths.
#16
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iTrader: (31)
Brembo discs are good mate with a good pad, I used grooved discs also but I was on the 4 pots and the calipers weren't upto my driving style.
Now I'm on brembos and have Brembo discs and cl rc6 race pads. Awesome set up by far and I've had a few I.e 335 kit, ndx blue stuff, ds2500, orange stuff and are off the mark in comparison IMO.
Now I'm on brembos and have Brembo discs and cl rc6 race pads. Awesome set up by far and I've had a few I.e 335 kit, ndx blue stuff, ds2500, orange stuff and are off the mark in comparison IMO.
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