Ian

iTrader: (10)

as above really, i all ways thought you needed the induction kit filter to be away from the engine heat. and in the past i have had a heat shield, but i see more and more big bhp scoobs these days with no shielding.

sooo is it really needed? on a modded day to day car?

p.s anyone else running the ggr induction kit with alloy spun trumpet on the 99-00 classic?

TonyBeau

I'm not sure if not having a heat shield makes much difference on a turbo car as the air entering the engine gains a lot of heat passing through the turbo. The intercooler then acts to cool this charged air back down before entering the cylinders.

f4la k

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ I'd learn abit more about how things work, going by that post...

TonyBeau

Care to elaborate - if I'm completely wrong then please correct me as I'm always up for learning something new. I have removed the bit about heat soak probably being more of an issue on NA engines as thinking about yes that is incorrect.

Steve Whitehorn

iTrader: (13)

Heat shield
Is it needed
No.

Best getting a good cold airfeed to the filter. And lagging the headers, heat blanket on the turbo ect etc.

leecalcars

iTrader: (37)

need a heat blanket for a vf48 where to buy chaps ?

jura11

iTrader: (7)

In my view not needed,we are running 490bhp without the like heat blanket and without the cold air feed and heat shield





But maybe cold air feed should be good idea in summer,but in the winter now i don't see point right now

Jura

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Contact here PTP blanket or on eBay are for £48

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Tur...ht_2295wt_1163

Jura

Steve Whitehorn

iTrader: (13)

Lee - I Got mine off Harvey - I know he had different sizes.
He hadnt tested it as it was fresh in when I got it.
Worth asking him some questions and seeing if he has one
Cheers
Steve

ronjeramy

iTrader: (1)

Ian I've got the RCM kit on my classic,its a tight fit. Not had it on the rollers but but Duncan reckoned it was about 330 on a v5 sti on a simtek and decat exhaust.

Ian

iTrader: (10)

any pics of that please ronjeramy

ronjeramy

iTrader: (1)

Not at the mo mate, if I remember I'll take one tomorrow

harvey

iTrader: (48)

If you want optimum performance you must run a heat shield, wrap the turbo exhaust section or fit a turbo heat blanket.
The exhaust section of your turbo will give off a lot of heat and increase underbonnet temperature substantially. Wrapping the turbo exhaust section is the best option and I have kits available for that purpose. £55 for a single, £85 for a double. The next best option is a turbo blanket. I cannot compete with the PTP price. The final option is the OE heat shield. Not ideal but better than nothing.
The advantages of wrapping the turbo exhaust section are that the turbo will be more responsive generally as the EGTs are higher and you can actually prove this for yourself after you have wrapped the turbo. Prior to wrapping take the car to a level piece of road and from around 1500 to 1700 in 4th gear floor the throttle and observe the revs at which you reach 1 bar of boost. Turn round and repeat on the same piece of road and continue to do this until the rev point has stabilised at a particular RPM to 1 bar. Now wrap the turbo and repeat the experiment. If it took 5 or 6 WOT runs to reach the stable point before it will now take 3 or 4 and you will also observe that the actual 1 bar point is slightly lower down the rev range.
Keeping the hot bits hot and the cold bits cold is one of the objectives when tuning an engine.
Keeping the engine bay cool will also assist the TMIC if you have one and denser air will be ingested by the turbo compressor.
All this leads to more power.
You can do your own experiments with a minimum and maximum thermometer available for only a few pounds from a garden centre. Anything you do to keep underbonnet temperatures down will result in several benefits.

sonic93

iTrader: (16)

do u mean wrap downpipe harvey? what about intercooler pipes?

Ian

iTrader: (10)

i have the aps inner wing induction kit with a bigger k&n filter, but i find that it gets dirty very quickly, so was going to go back to a under the bonnet filter.

exhaust is wraped, and have a turbo heat blanket in place all ready

sonic93

iTrader: (16)

ian can u take a pic u wanna sell it ?

Ian

iTrader: (10)

my turbo blanket is some big jacket that i have put on the wrong way around. i would not say it works 100% as it is not aight fit, but it is better than nothing. I do have a DEi universal kit to go on one day when i get some time though.

Motion-Mx

iTrader: (2)

I've just orderd an ebay turbo heat cover,are these any good? my downpipe is also ceramic coated so should be cool sailing

harvey

iTrader: (48)

The items to be wrapped in order of priority :
Headers, uppipe, turbo exhaust NOT compressor.
Downpipe.

The effectiveness by various means :
1. DEI or Cool It universal turbo wrapping kit
2. Properly fitting heat blanket.
3. Heat shield.

The most effective wrapping material I have found so far is the buff coloured DEI heat wrap which has a stitching down the margin to show the appropriate overlap and act as a guide to make the use of the material cost effective.
If Magma wrap and Titanium wrap has large mesh and you can easily see through the holes then obviously it cannot compete with heat retention and this is easily proven by comparing results between the DEI buff and these two products with the use of an infrared thermometer gun.

If you have ceramic coated a component it is not as well heat insulated as with DEI buff heat wrap and in time the ceramic coating will flake. If you have a heat blanket and ceramic coating you may reach or maintain temperatures outwith the intended heat range but you will also quicken the point at which the ceramic coating flakes particularly if you run temperatures exceeding 900C in the uppipe. This applies to headers, uppipe and turbo exhaust section.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Moving the air filter from the inner wing is a good move, particularly if you can replace it with a larger air filter. This is particularly easy with a Simtek or Syvecs ECU where there is no MAF sensor. If the MAF sensor is retained the space available is reduced which then results in a smaller filter. With a larger air filter gains are usually well in excess of losses from breathing warmer engine bay air but the warm air breathing can be eliminated by building an insulated carbon fibre cold air divider along the driver side chassis rail, extending all the way to the bonnet and doing everything possible to get cold air into this area. If you can get positive pressure in this area there will be no hot air breathing whatsoever. Also doing everything possible to reduce under bonnet temperatures is worthwhile.

FMIC pipes. Do not insulate the run from turbo compressor to FMIC core. Insulate the run from FMIC to throttlebody. I use DEI heat wrap and then apply an aluminiumised heat reflective, insulated sleeve. (e-bay, Nimbus, or whoever). HTH.

Ian

iTrader: (10)

this is the new filter that i have got to go in the engine bay
http://shop.grahamgoode.com/impreza-...36-66795-p.asp

and this is the oul k&n im running in the bumper
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RU-3620

at a guess the new filter is smaller than my current one.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Simply measure them with a flexible tape measure and calculate the surface area. You want the biggest surface area you can get in the space available. If the replacement is not signifigantly bigger than the inner wing filter you have missed an opportunity.
The replacement sounds expensive. Did you get a check price from RCMS or similar???