seminney

iTrader: (1)

Me again!

Still got problems with my 94 WRX STi import

I want to work this out, and I'm learning alot along the way so, here's another post with some more questions:

Codes: 12 24 32 44

Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced ECU
Replaced Battery
Replaced Boost Solenoid

Car is lumpy on cold start
Car idles @ 1100 rpm cold or warm
0.5 BAR boost (Boost cut with pill, no cut without pill)

Car is mapped with an ESL board @ 342 bhp. Currently feels like I have a third of that power!

Cannot find a vacuum leak
Hissing is from induction kit

I'm thinking the next thing to try is a new MAF and or cold start sensor.
Would a faulty one of these cause these types of issues?


Cheers.

mitman2501

(Boost cut with pill, no cut without pill) .......... don't use the pill mate had the same problem with my old classic because off your mods u don't need it any ways ! All it does is help control boost pressure mine did feel better with it , but kept hitting boost cut like yours .

MAF is why the cars running like poo that's why its idles @ 1100 rpm cold or warm .... had same problems also check the plugs mate

Boost solenoid can brake down ( also happened to me ) try cleaning if not replace it

djquest

iTrader: (8)

What i use to do to test the MAF on my car was when the car was running i would disconnect the MAF. If there was no change to the way the car was behaving then most likely its the Maf. So i took the Maf off and put some Carb cleaner through it. Once cleaned up, would try it again to see if it made any difference.

I would also try to give the boost solenoid a clean. first connect the green and black connectors under the dash. put the car on ignition. This should make the fans come on and cause the soloniods to start clicking. Then disconnect the top hose and bottom hose of the soloniod. Put some card cleaner down it. This should clean it out. Once done reconnect all the pipes back and disconnect the connectors under the dash.

i hope that helps.

Cheers

seminney

iTrader: (1)

Cheers guys.

I'll order a MAF and report back.

In terms of boost, I've already replaced the solenoid as I couldn't hear that clicking anymore. The new solenoid gives me the clicking now so assuming it is ok, and it was sold to me as perfect working order. Guess a little carb cleaner wouldn't go a miss anyway.

Cheers again.

seminney

iTrader: (1)

Oh and the car cuts out when I remove the MAF, but I guess that doesn't imply its in full working order?

djquest

iTrader: (8)

correct. it doesnt 100% mean its working.

ukpaisley

iTrader: (4)

Dump valve broken ?,

seminney

iTrader: (1)

I've seen threads about a broken dump valve.

Sounds like its working fine, but I guess sound isn't enough to go buy. Its an HKS dump valve.

I block off the 1st of 3 outlets on top of the inlet, to test right? Do I simply block off the pipe coming out of the FMIC pipe too?

ukpaisley

iTrader: (4)

Pipe out of the front mount, as it sounds as if its a vta bov.

seminney

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I'm not following you...?

ukpaisley

iTrader: (4)

Its a basic valve that when you take youre foot off the throttle, it reduces the pressure in the pipe and opens a valve and vents to atmosphere , this valve may be stuck, so take the valve off and block the big pipe up.
Someone on here may post a pic for you and I have a different type on mine.

seminney

iTrader: (1)

Ah, vent to atmosphere... I didn't know what you mean't by VTA.

So, I'll remove the valve completely, block up the large pipe on the FMIC pipe and the 1st of 3 outlets on the inlet manifold.

I'll report my findings, but could this really be whats causing all my probs?!

ukpaisley

iTrader: (4)

yip, as you build boost it will just vent, fooling the ECU to run rich, remember most problems on cars are mechanical !, that valve opens and coleses every time u take yore foot off the throttle. electrical stuff like MAF, often start slowly then fail.

seminney

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I'll give it ago.

Whats MAP sensor, and where is it located? Someone said this could cause an idle fault... ?

ukpaisley

iTrader: (4)

Next to the boost sol on the wing. :-)

seminney

iTrader: (1)

Ahh. I wonder if this took a turn for the worst. The car shorted out at the O2 sensor cable after melting against the block, hence the problems. That could be why I'm still getting boost solenoid CEL code still, even after replacing it. And if that could be causing a high idle? Could be a winner.