HELP! engine knocking after 4k on forged rebuild
19 January 2012, 07:08 PM
#1
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HELP! engine knocking after 4k on forged rebuild
without boring you, heres what happened>
pulled up at home after a stead drive home from the gf's, cooled car down as always. came out to the car the following morning started it up, after 5 secs a knocking sound came from the engine bay so i shut it off immediatley and called the engine builder who said bring it in. im not gona lie, the car does get sum stick but it is well looked after by the engine builder, its been in his hands every couple of months after the build for a check over and oil changes etc. ive done the obvious like check all the levels etc and all are perfect........as ALWAYS!! im asking for any advice as to what may have caused this......im assuming bottom end failure......the car is a 1998 sti import wagon, as said above, its forged, CDB, stage 2 crank, got 6 speed box, de cat, mapped apexi ecu to approx 310. the build cost me 4k and im damned if im paying another 4k!!!!!!!!!!
any help would be much appreciated lads
pulled up at home after a stead drive home from the gf's, cooled car down as always. came out to the car the following morning started it up, after 5 secs a knocking sound came from the engine bay so i shut it off immediatley and called the engine builder who said bring it in. im not gona lie, the car does get sum stick but it is well looked after by the engine builder, its been in his hands every couple of months after the build for a check over and oil changes etc. ive done the obvious like check all the levels etc and all are perfect........as ALWAYS!! im asking for any advice as to what may have caused this......im assuming bottom end failure......the car is a 1998 sti import wagon, as said above, its forged, CDB, stage 2 crank, got 6 speed box, de cat, mapped apexi ecu to approx 310. the build cost me 4k and im damned if im paying another 4k!!!!!!!!!!
any help would be much appreciated lads
19 January 2012, 07:35 PM
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without being specific, is the engine builder well known on here, if they are im sure they will look after you assuming you haven't caused the problem yourself. If they aren't well known maybe you picked the wrong builder.
19 January 2012, 07:39 PM
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Could be anything really mate, not nearly enough info here! The cause of the failure is what your engine builder should be determining!
Did the car suffer an engine failure before it was forged or was it just upgraded? If it did suffer a failure, was the cause determined? If not, the same things that caused it to let go before may have just reared its head again. Any warning lights prior to it letting go?
I'm afraid if the engine was out of warranty, you're either going to have to shell out for another build/replacement engine, or cut your losses and walk away!
Ns04
Did the car suffer an engine failure before it was forged or was it just upgraded? If it did suffer a failure, was the cause determined? If not, the same things that caused it to let go before may have just reared its head again. Any warning lights prior to it letting go?
I'm afraid if the engine was out of warranty, you're either going to have to shell out for another build/replacement engine, or cut your losses and walk away!
Ns04
19 January 2012, 07:59 PM
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Who did the build ??? Not saying I'm a expert mine just dropped you see its at API at the mow haven a build I was told they is a number off things
Last edited by mitman2501; 19 January 2012 at 08:03 PM.
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19 January 2012, 08:16 PM
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Was it properly mapped for all mods & were there any running issues before knocking?Did the builder diagnose bottom end or are you assuming as it may be something else.
19 January 2012, 08:41 PM
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Whats a stage 2 crank ?
I have heard a few lads talk about piston slap on forged builds google it and have a look on youtube see if thats what you heard...
I have heard a few lads talk about piston slap on forged builds google it and have a look on youtube see if thats what you heard...
20 January 2012, 11:17 AM
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I'm not naming no names yet as I wudnt want to ruin his credability or the relationship I've got with the builder. I'm hopeful he'll look after me whatever conclusion he comes to
20 January 2012, 11:25 AM
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Another thing I forgot to mention which may be significant.....the oil light came on a few seconds after I started the car up, then the knocking started a few seconds after, so I switched off immediatley! Could it be oil pressure? If so....is this my fault? As I said above.....the oil is at the correct level
20 January 2012, 11:30 AM
#20
In your own words you've got a good relationship with the engine builder and he has looked after you in the past. Why would things change now? Furthermore I can't see what diagnosis you're going to get over the internet! A lot it may be this and could be that but how can anyone say definitively without examining the engine?
It seems you put this up to keep the said specialist on his toes.
20 January 2012, 11:42 AM
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Things may change now because a fresh re build could be in the balance and it will be either his or me forking out another 4k for this.......I'm sure even if I've got a good relationship with him....he'll still rather put it on me rather than him self.........don't you agree?
20 January 2012, 01:14 PM
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without stripping the engine down the reason could be anything from component failure, to bad batch of fuel, to bad map, to failed sensor, to not warming it up properly before giving it stick, etc etc etc aka anythign could have happened
310 is very low power for a forged cdb build, so i doubt its a overload type failure, aka driving it to hard (unless not warmed up properly first).
get diagnosis first then go from there. untill you know the cause your wasting time worrying about it. Also if the builder is as well known as you say and has a good rep im sure they will treat you right if you let them figure out whats going on insted of going off on forums.
310 is very low power for a forged cdb build, so i doubt its a overload type failure, aka driving it to hard (unless not warmed up properly first).
get diagnosis first then go from there. untill you know the cause your wasting time worrying about it. Also if the builder is as well known as you say and has a good rep im sure they will treat you right if you let them figure out whats going on insted of going off on forums.
20 January 2012, 01:25 PM
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Is any one thinking the same thing hear
If you only had the build done 6 months ago and you ran the car in , (with the right oil ) done every think right 1st and paid 4k for a build thats gone pop allready Its not looking good for the chap who did the build is it ?Also to be fair to who ever did the build if you been driveing it around like you stolen it every day that could be why
without stripping the engine down the reason could be anything from poo fuel, to bad map, to not warming it up properly . But I belive if you had a good build and good map which thats why you pay 4K for it should last longer then 6 months around 1000 miles need to be done to run a full build in even then you should take your time until the cars settled down API have my car at the mow and iv been told around £3500 mark for the build and thats a really really really good build any think over 4k your looking a forge stuf
Last edited by mitman2501; 20 January 2012 at 01:31 PM.
20 January 2012, 01:29 PM
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Things may change now because a fresh re build could be in the balance and it will be either his or me forking out another 4k for this.......I'm sure even if I've got a good relationship with him....he'll still rather put it on me rather than him self.........don't you agree?
If it's out of warranty, you WILL be paying regardless, so this speculation is irrelevant.
Without an independent inspection, you will have no way of refuting any claims made from the strip down! If that inspection revealed that there was nothing very obviously wrong with the build from the outset -tbh If there had of been, the chances are it wouldn't have lasted 6 months of hard use- then the builder is in the clear as there are a whole host of other things that could have gone wrong beyond their control e.g. component failure (OEM oil pump pressure relief valve sticking open not a totally uncommon fault), dodgy fuel etc!
Expect to have to pay for this I'm afraid!
Ns04
Last edited by New_scooby_04; 20 January 2012 at 01:30 PM.
20 January 2012, 02:12 PM
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Not if he's honest he won't.
If it's out of warranty, you WILL be paying regardless, so this speculation is irrelevant.
Without an independent inspection, you will have no way of refuting any claims made from the strip down! If that inspection revealed that there was nothing very obviously wrong with the build from the outset -tbh If there had of been, the chances are it wouldn't have lasted 6 months of hard use- then the builder is in the clear as there are a whole host of other things that could have gone wrong beyond their control e.g. component failure (OEM oil pump pressure relief valve sticking open not a totally uncommon fault), dodgy fuel etc!
Expect to have to pay for this I'm afraid!
Ns04
If it's out of warranty, you WILL be paying regardless, so this speculation is irrelevant.
Without an independent inspection, you will have no way of refuting any claims made from the strip down! If that inspection revealed that there was nothing very obviously wrong with the build from the outset -tbh If there had of been, the chances are it wouldn't have lasted 6 months of hard use- then the builder is in the clear as there are a whole host of other things that could have gone wrong beyond their control e.g. component failure (OEM oil pump pressure relief valve sticking open not a totally uncommon fault), dodgy fuel etc!
Expect to have to pay for this I'm afraid!
Ns04
20 January 2012, 02:24 PM
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Its a bit late to be telling you now but you cant rely on the oil light. The oil light coming on is like a flash when a nuke goes off, its too late the damage is done.
