stu76

hi.

recently got a subaru turbo wagon r reg.
drives superb but the clutch pedal has a annoying slight few inches of play, so basically fully depress to change gear no problem, but as it comes back up it flops back and appears to have a bit of slack or a few inches pressing it down being floppy before doing anything.
anyone advise please?
thanks.

r1c

iTrader: (9)

Try bleeding it out mate

marcevs72

iTrader: (5)

just sorted this in mine this morning.un-clip the return spring in the clutch slave cylinder and push the piston all the way in and use clamp to keep there then bleed as normal.i then adjusted the threaded bar on the clutch pedal so that there is about half an inch of play so the clutch wont drag if you rest your foot on pedal when driving and bingo.all done.

stu76

have you got any pics on doing this job ,bleeding cylinder, is it a big job or just a adjustment somewhere>?

just fed up with the slightly wobbly/loose clutch pedal upon its return upward upon changing gear, just the last few inches i would say upon clutch pedal comig back up, comes up normally then the last bit just pops up like a spring!

thanks for replies so far., some pics would be helpful or more explaination as new to the scooby car thing tech!

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

You also need to check the free play at the pedal. Too much and the pedal won't return correctly and too little will cause you to ride the clutch &/or clutch slip. I'd bleed it and adjust the rod

stu76

hi.

ok so the best option would be to check under or near the foot pedal for the clutch and adjust something then first, will have a look and see if anything obvious, just want to adjust it or do something as its a bit annoying when the pedal comes back up then the last bit just pops up on its own, like under a bit of tension or something!

thanks.

any one with any pics will be helpful, or if anyone knows how to bleed the cylinder as not done one of these before!
thanks,

cster

http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/m...-clutch-pedal/
It is pretty much the same as this. Have a look under the pedal and you will figure it out easily enough. It is not very difficult, but is a bit fiddly.

stu76

thanks for the picture.

is the picture for or from a subaru or a toyota as the title says from a toyota!
thanks.

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

It's basically the same thing but I'm pretty sure you adjust it with a 10mm spanner on a Subaru.

cster

It is from an MR2, but it is the same mechanism.
It is a lot more fiddly on an MR2 though!

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

Before you start messing about bleeding & adjusting have a look at where the pin goes through the pedal attaching onto theaster cylinder rod. It should be a tight fit with no play. A common fault is for the hole in the pedal to ware & become elongated causing the exact problem you describe. Adjustment may help as a temp solution but if I am wright you will need a new pedal, pin & bush.

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

The threaded rod at the pedal adjusts the height of the pedal. The rod will always go back to the same position when releasing the pedal. The thread simply adjusts the position of the pedal on the rod. The "free play" is effectively slack in the mechanism and is not adjustable as such.

JohnD

cster

There are two adjuster bolt/thread/nuts.
One on the rod between the pedal and the hydraulic cylinder, which you can adjust the bite point with. There is another adjuster bolt for the pedal height.
The first adjustment would be on the rod to get the desired bite point and once this is set, adjust the pedal height to dial out slack from the point at which the clutch is fully disengaged.
Once you get under there it will all make sense.
I think you will find the brake pedal has a similar mechanism. It is when you start trying to match up the heights of the pedals to each other, that you really start to disappear up your own a4se - well that was my experience anyways!

stu76

hi.

i have looked under the pedal area today,
yes it appears the pedal has a bit of play from the pin/ pedal/bush/connecting rod which is held in by the circlip, i have adjusted the rod by unlocking the 10mm locknut and adjusting it, i have now stopped any free play in the pedal, so i presume do i need a new pedal, or can i just buy the pin/bush on there own etc which goes thro the pedal?


any advice on the pedal bits would be nice, can you buy just the little bits seperately or does it have to be the whole pedal/bush etc?
thanks.

well done to richard j for the advice so far on this one.