Rough idle,no power
#1
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Rough idle,no power
hi
recently bought my first subaru.
its a 97 2.0 twin t legacy.
however theres a bit of a problem with it.
it idles rough,and when i drive it theres no power,and kinda jumps,like if it hadnt enough power to move the car.
even if i put the foot to the floor nothing happens.
if i rev it in neutral,its a bit rough and misfires up to 2000rpm but above it revs fine.
theres a small ticking from it but dies down when warm.was told its the con rod bearings.checked them but theres no play in them
changed the oil,and plugs but no change
any one any idea what it could be
the car was parked up for a year before i got it
recently bought my first subaru.
its a 97 2.0 twin t legacy.
however theres a bit of a problem with it.
it idles rough,and when i drive it theres no power,and kinda jumps,like if it hadnt enough power to move the car.
even if i put the foot to the floor nothing happens.
if i rev it in neutral,its a bit rough and misfires up to 2000rpm but above it revs fine.
theres a small ticking from it but dies down when warm.was told its the con rod bearings.checked them but theres no play in them
changed the oil,and plugs but no change
any one any idea what it could be
the car was parked up for a year before i got it
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The noice on cold idle might be piston slap which I think is common in the 97 models and not worth worrying about.
MAF sensor would be worth changing for a known good one to see if that cures it.
MAF sensor would be worth changing for a known good one to see if that cures it.
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sound for the help,ill try get one monday.
today i noticed a black and a green plug disconnected just above the pedals,when i connected them and turned on the ignition,the 2 fans came on and off,and the box beside the air filter with all the small vaacum pipes went mad and started making noise opening the turbo valve and the valve under the intercooler,and in the left wing something made noise.
is that normal??
today i noticed a black and a green plug disconnected just above the pedals,when i connected them and turned on the ignition,the 2 fans came on and off,and the box beside the air filter with all the small vaacum pipes went mad and started making noise opening the turbo valve and the valve under the intercooler,and in the left wing something made noise.
is that normal??
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yeah you leave them disconnected. though you can connect the black and the green to read the error codes
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/error_codes.asp.htm
no idea if legacy has OBD or not, on a 99 impreza the OBD port is on the lower dash panel below the steering wheel - so check around under there on your's
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/error_codes.asp.htm
no idea if legacy has OBD or not, on a 99 impreza the OBD port is on the lower dash panel below the steering wheel - so check around under there on your's
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new coil pack
got a new afm,no change.
checked all the coil packs,1 was a bit weak,replaced that,made a big difference car idles smooth now.
but when i drive and put the boot down it nearly cuts out,takes all the power away and dosent pull at all.
and now i hear a rattle like the con rod bearing was gone
does the head have to come off 2 change them?
tinkn bout a new engine
checked all the coil packs,1 was a bit weak,replaced that,made a big difference car idles smooth now.
but when i drive and put the boot down it nearly cuts out,takes all the power away and dosent pull at all.
and now i hear a rattle like the con rod bearing was gone
does the head have to come off 2 change them?
tinkn bout a new engine
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Throttle position sensor? I changed mine yesterday on an impreza turbo, and it wasn't set to the correct position after changing it at first. It wouldn't idle unless the throttle was held and if the throttle was held at a constant position under 2000rpm it would hunt. Also if I pushed the throttle it tried to stall before picking up some revs. So I just got my mate to twist it till it ran smooth when I held the revs at 1500rpm and now it's sorted. So I'd just try turning your sensor and see what happens. But mark it's current position incase this doesn't solve the problem
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i tink i have it sorted now.
on the left turbo,the boost link thing was broken off,welded it bk together,and took her for a spin.pulls fairly good now,not as good as i would hope it to but fairly decent.
however the con rod bearings are starting to rattle
and the abs only works in reverse
on the left turbo,the boost link thing was broken off,welded it bk together,and took her for a spin.pulls fairly good now,not as good as i would hope it to but fairly decent.
however the con rod bearings are starting to rattle
and the abs only works in reverse
#15
Do you mean your big ends? Are they knocking? If so I would not drive it as you are going to be looking at a spectacular self destruction of your engine. If it's piston slap it's not a big issue as long as it quietens down when warm. Get it checked out by your local specialist ASAP.
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Do you mean your big ends? Are they knocking? If so I would not drive it as you are going to be looking at a spectacular self destruction of your engine. If it's piston slap it's not a big issue as long as it quietens down when warm. Get it checked out by your local specialist ASAP.
when i replace them is there anything i need to look out for?
will i have to get oversize bearings,or will standard be ok?
also i seen .55mm Hgasket and 1.3mm gaskets,which one should i get?
tanks for the help
#17
If it was big ends knocking they usually do it all the time, I would suspect piston slap, but hard to say without hearing the noise. If it is big ends knocking it usually takes out your crank & rods so you'll be looking at a rebuild. Have a local specialist listen to it before jumping in with a rebuild. Where are you?
#18
As far as head gasket goes you need to see which size is fitted & replace with the same. If you skim your heads find out how much was taken off & fit the thicker gasket accordingly. If in doubt always go thicker as it will be safer.
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