Impreza UK300 Coolant Trouble
20 October 2011, 07:29 PM
#1
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Impreza UK300 Coolant Trouble
Hi Guys,
I've got a Bug-Eye Impreza UK300, and it's got a bit of an issue.
Driving it, the needle will go into the red gauge, idling it will stay at normal as the fans kick in as normal.
There seems to be no sign of coolant coming through the pipe back into the coolant bottle, and the coolant in the coolant bottle is cold.
Tried bleeding it, and it didn't seem to work.
Heaters are cold, even when dial on hot.
Please could you help me?
Cheers Pete
I've got a Bug-Eye Impreza UK300, and it's got a bit of an issue.
Driving it, the needle will go into the red gauge, idling it will stay at normal as the fans kick in as normal.
There seems to be no sign of coolant coming through the pipe back into the coolant bottle, and the coolant in the coolant bottle is cold.
Tried bleeding it, and it didn't seem to work.
Heaters are cold, even when dial on hot.
Please could you help me?
Cheers Pete
20 October 2011, 09:34 PM
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If it's not been changed, flush it through with some clean wter, or buy something to flush it.
Draining: there is a little tap at the base of classic rads, or yes, remove bottom hose.
Refilling: Make sure car heater is set to "hot". On the metal rad cap on top of the engine, there are some hoses. Remove the REARmost one and fit a funnel into it. Pour the antifreeze mix (50%, ok?), into this avoiding any "glugging". Keep doing so until you see the level in the metal reservoir rise to the top, at which point, remove funnel and refit hose.
Now, without refitting the resevoir CAP, start engine and wait for it to warm. Watch for bubbles, top up/mop up as necessary.
Once it's warm, refit rad cap, go a for a drive round the block, check level once it cools and refill, if necessary via rad cap and overflow.
Job done....no bleeding necessary, or possible.
Draining: there is a little tap at the base of classic rads, or yes, remove bottom hose.
Refilling: Make sure car heater is set to "hot". On the metal rad cap on top of the engine, there are some hoses. Remove the REARmost one and fit a funnel into it. Pour the antifreeze mix (50%, ok?), into this avoiding any "glugging". Keep doing so until you see the level in the metal reservoir rise to the top, at which point, remove funnel and refit hose.
Now, without refitting the resevoir CAP, start engine and wait for it to warm. Watch for bubbles, top up/mop up as necessary.
Once it's warm, refit rad cap, go a for a drive round the block, check level once it cools and refill, if necessary via rad cap and overflow.
Job done....no bleeding necessary, or possible.
20 October 2011, 10:02 PM
#6
You bled it? Pray tell how? There IS no facility to bleed Scoob coolant systems.
Either water pump has gone, or an air lock.
Do as above, drain and refill CAREFULLY. If the problem persists, get the pump checked........the impellor can come adrift from it's shaft.
Either water pump has gone, or an air lock.
Do as above, drain and refill CAREFULLY. If the problem persists, get the pump checked........the impellor can come adrift from it's shaft.
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25 October 2011, 01:50 AM
#8
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Following on from my last post, it worked fine for a few days.
I drove it a 30 mile trip with no problems.
Then a 20 mile trip again no problems.
Then on the way to work which is about 2 miles away, the needle started to rise to 3/4 and that's where it stayed till I got to work and switched the engine off.
The heaters are still working, so the coolant is going round now, unlike before.
The fans also kicked in when I saw it go up to 3/4 on my temperature gauge.
Any ideas guys?
I drove it a 30 mile trip with no problems.
Then a 20 mile trip again no problems.
Then on the way to work which is about 2 miles away, the needle started to rise to 3/4 and that's where it stayed till I got to work and switched the engine off.
The heaters are still working, so the coolant is going round now, unlike before.
The fans also kicked in when I saw it go up to 3/4 on my temperature gauge.
Any ideas guys?
07 November 2011, 10:05 AM
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Following on from my last post, it worked fine for a few days.
I drove it a 30 mile trip with no problems.
Then a 20 mile trip again no problems.
Then on the way to work which is about 2 miles away, the needle started to rise to 3/4 and that's where it stayed till I got to work and switched the engine off.
The heaters are still working, so the coolant is going round now, unlike before.
The fans also kicked in when I saw it go up to 3/4 on my temperature gauge.
Any ideas guys?
I drove it a 30 mile trip with no problems.
Then a 20 mile trip again no problems.
Then on the way to work which is about 2 miles away, the needle started to rise to 3/4 and that's where it stayed till I got to work and switched the engine off.
The heaters are still working, so the coolant is going round now, unlike before.
The fans also kicked in when I saw it go up to 3/4 on my temperature gauge.
Any ideas guys?
07 November 2011, 10:45 AM
#12
as above, test for the worst case scenario and work back,
If its not the head gasket then just get the water pump and stat swapped, if you are due a cambelt change its a good time to do that and save yourself a few quid later,
Once you have ruled the HG out its worth spending a few quid on bits, but to get a thermostat and water pump swapped isnt 20 or 30 quid.
If its not the head gasket then just get the water pump and stat swapped, if you are due a cambelt change its a good time to do that and save yourself a few quid later,
Once you have ruled the HG out its worth spending a few quid on bits, but to get a thermostat and water pump swapped isnt 20 or 30 quid.
07 November 2011, 08:10 PM
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ah, ha , just read your last post. H/G failure is usually the symptom of another problem such as overheating caused by a silted up cooling system/rad and/or faulty thermostat/water pump. I would get the rad flushed and also pressure tested whilst you are at it.
Last edited by The Zohan; 07 November 2011 at 08:17 PM.
08 November 2011, 12:29 PM
#16
WELL worth it, Scoobs have a nasty habit of destroying their bottom end shortly after headgaskets have been replaced.
MUCH cheaper to do it now..........trust me, I know
12 November 2011, 12:19 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Update:
Okay, I have the subaru back after it's had it's headgaskets replaced and new cambelt etc. Now I have a new problem....
Now this is what my subaru used to sound like:
http://youtu.be/7puIUWg8emM
And this is what it sounds like now:
http://youtu.be/f5iEC67_Jo0
I am told by the mechanic who fitted my headgaskets and cambelt, that it was timed up wrong when he took the engine out (which is how it was in the 1st video). So it is timed up right now in the 2nd video.
To me it doesn't sound right, it's idling rough, its kangarooing up the road and it's hesitating a lot.
So will someone please confirm my suspicions that it was timed up properly before he changed the timing?
Also I have a code P0327 if that helps.
Thanks guys.
Okay, I have the subaru back after it's had it's headgaskets replaced and new cambelt etc. Now I have a new problem....
Now this is what my subaru used to sound like:
http://youtu.be/7puIUWg8emM
And this is what it sounds like now:
http://youtu.be/f5iEC67_Jo0
I am told by the mechanic who fitted my headgaskets and cambelt, that it was timed up wrong when he took the engine out (which is how it was in the 1st video). So it is timed up right now in the 2nd video.
To me it doesn't sound right, it's idling rough, its kangarooing up the road and it's hesitating a lot.
So will someone please confirm my suspicions that it was timed up properly before he changed the timing?
Also I have a code P0327 if that helps.
Thanks guys.
Last edited by Squav; 12 November 2011 at 12:26 AM.
12 November 2011, 03:58 AM
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First video it sounds fine, second video it sounds like it is missing/lumpy. back to basics, check plugs/leads/coil pack connections check plug gaps are fine and that a plug hasn't taken a knock and closed up and the leads are connected and packs firing ok.
12 November 2011, 02:54 PM
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If that were me id be knocking on the door of the garage. You drive it in running ok bar a heating problem and now it doesn't run right after THEY have had the engine apart.
Save the time and effort for yourself and send it back to them.
I had a similar thing with mine after a clutch change and all of a sudden I had a broken header tank on the way home which "must have been like it when i drive in"...of course!!! I drove the 20 miles to the garage with coolant being pumped out of system????
Fight, fight and fight some more.
Save the time and effort for yourself and send it back to them.
I had a similar thing with mine after a clutch change and all of a sudden I had a broken header tank on the way home which "must have been like it when i drive in"...of course!!! I drove the 20 miles to the garage with coolant being pumped out of system????
Fight, fight and fight some more.
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