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-   -   Impreza UK300 Coolant Trouble (https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/910094-impreza-uk300-coolant-trouble.html)

Squav 20 October 2011 07:29 PM

Impreza UK300 Coolant Trouble
 
Hi Guys,

I've got a Bug-Eye Impreza UK300, and it's got a bit of an issue.

Driving it, the needle will go into the red gauge, idling it will stay at normal as the fans kick in as normal.

There seems to be no sign of coolant coming through the pipe back into the coolant bottle, and the coolant in the coolant bottle is cold.

Tried bleeding it, and it didn't seem to work.

Heaters are cold, even when dial on hot.

Please could you help me?

Cheers Pete

-shane- 20 October 2011 07:35 PM

Sounds to me like you have an air lock

Galifrey 20 October 2011 07:36 PM

Sounds like Water pump failure.

Squav 20 October 2011 07:52 PM

Any suggestions on bleeding it properly, something I may not be doing?

Galifrey 20 October 2011 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by alcazar (Post 10282101)
If it's not been changed, flush it through with some clean wter, or buy something to flush it.

Draining: there is a little tap at the base of classic rads, or yes, remove bottom hose.

Refilling: Make sure car heater is set to "hot". On the metal rad cap on top of the engine, there are some hoses. Remove the REARmost one and fit a funnel into it. Pour the antifreeze mix (50%, ok?), into this avoiding any "glugging". Keep doing so until you see the level in the metal reservoir rise to the top, at which point, remove funnel and refit hose.

Now, without refitting the resevoir CAP, start engine and wait for it to warm. Watch for bubbles, top up/mop up as necessary.
Once it's warm, refit rad cap, go a for a drive round the block, check level once it cools and refill, if necessary via rad cap and overflow.

Job done....no bleeding necessary, or possible.

That's what Alcazar advised me and worked a treat. Hence why I think water pump may be ****ed

alcazar 20 October 2011 10:02 PM

You bled it? Pray tell how? There IS no facility to bleed Scoob coolant systems.

Either water pump has gone, or an air lock.

Do as above, drain and refill CAREFULLY. If the problem persists, get the pump checked........the impellor can come adrift from it's shaft.

Squav 21 October 2011 05:33 PM

Thanks guys.

Followed Alcazar's guide and I've got heat in the cabin... seems to have stopped overheating.

:)

Squav 25 October 2011 01:50 AM

Following on from my last post, it worked fine for a few days.

I drove it a 30 mile trip with no problems.

Then a 20 mile trip again no problems.

Then on the way to work which is about 2 miles away, the needle started to rise to 3/4 and that's where it stayed till I got to work and switched the engine off.

The heaters are still working, so the coolant is going round now, unlike before.

The fans also kicked in when I saw it go up to 3/4 on my temperature gauge.

Any ideas guys? :(

Squav 27 October 2011 01:16 AM

Is it possible my water header expansion tank could be leaking and causing an air lock even after bleeding it?

oobyJu 07 November 2011 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by Squav (Post 10298509)
Following on from my last post, it worked fine for a few days.

I drove it a 30 mile trip with no problems.

Then a 20 mile trip again no problems.

Then on the way to work which is about 2 miles away, the needle started to rise to 3/4 and that's where it stayed till I got to work and switched the engine off.

The heaters are still working, so the coolant is going round now, unlike before.

The fans also kicked in when I saw it go up to 3/4 on my temperature gauge.

Any ideas guys? :(

fans should kick in well before 3/4 anyone know where the sensor is? is your thermostat opening properly? if coolant ran low it might be gummed up along with senor, to check start from cold and hold radiator top hose should get hot rapidly when water temp nearing half way, if not maybe replace thermostat if a dose of radflush and a good rinse don't fix it.

alcazar 07 November 2011 10:31 AM

Could be the thermostat sticking shut?
You might need to get a sniff test done, it could be a headgasket failure.

Or maybe STILL the water pump? Fresh coolant has allowed it to work, now it's clogged again?

JDM_Stig 07 November 2011 10:45 AM

as above, test for the worst case scenario and work back,
If its not the head gasket then just get the water pump and stat swapped, if you are due a cambelt change its a good time to do that and save yourself a few quid later,
Once you have ruled the HG out its worth spending a few quid on bits, but to get a thermostat and water pump swapped isnt 20 or 30 quid.

Squav 07 November 2011 06:10 PM

Took it into the garage, headgaskets gone. Also changing water pump and cambelt while the engine's out. :(

alcazar 07 November 2011 07:38 PM

Oh dear. :( :(

Seems to be yet ANOTHER common fault on Imprezas...........:(

The Zohan 07 November 2011 08:10 PM


Originally Posted by alcazar (Post 10319706)
Could be the thermostat sticking shut?
You might need to get a sniff test done, it could be a headgasket failure.

Or maybe STILL the water pump? Fresh coolant has allowed it to work, now it's clogged again?

what he said:)

ah, ha , just read your last post. H/G failure is usually the symptom of another problem such as overheating caused by a silted up cooling system/rad and/or faulty thermostat/water pump. I would get the rad flushed and also pressure tested whilst you are at it.

alcazar 08 November 2011 12:29 PM


Originally Posted by Squav (Post 10320330)
Took it into the garage, headgaskets gone. Also changing water pump and cambelt while the engine's out. :(

Mate: do yourself a BIG favour and have the bottom end bearings changed at the same time.

WELL worth it, Scoobs have a nasty habit of destroying their bottom end shortly after headgaskets have been replaced.

MUCH cheaper to do it now..........trust me, I know:(

carl heath 08 November 2011 11:22 PM

Any particular reason for bottom end bearings doing this after hg failure/ replacement ?

Squav 12 November 2011 12:19 AM

Update:

Okay, I have the subaru back after it's had it's headgaskets replaced and new cambelt etc. Now I have a new problem.... :brickwall

Now this is what my subaru used to sound like:

http://youtu.be/7puIUWg8emM

And this is what it sounds like now:

http://youtu.be/f5iEC67_Jo0

I am told by the mechanic who fitted my headgaskets and cambelt, that it was timed up wrong when he took the engine out (which is how it was in the 1st video). So it is timed up right now in the 2nd video.

To me it doesn't sound right, it's idling rough, its kangarooing up the road and it's hesitating a lot.

So will someone please confirm my suspicions that it was timed up properly before he changed the timing?

Also I have a code P0327 if that helps.

Thanks guys.

The Zohan 12 November 2011 03:58 AM

First video it sounds fine, second video it sounds like it is missing/lumpy. back to basics, check plugs/leads/coil pack connections check plug gaps are fine and that a plug hasn't taken a knock and closed up and the leads are connected and packs firing ok.

mbayley77 12 November 2011 02:54 PM

If that were me id be knocking on the door of the garage. You drive it in running ok bar a heating problem and now it doesn't run right after THEY have had the engine apart.

Save the time and effort for yourself and send it back to them.

I had a similar thing with mine after a clutch change and all of a sudden I had a broken header tank on the way home which "must have been like it when i drive in"...of course!!! I drove the 20 miles to the garage with coolant being pumped out of system????

Fight, fight and fight some more.

Matt2732 12 November 2011 07:32 PM

Wrong coilpack on wrong plug maybe? Easy enough to get them mixed up if you forget to take note.


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