d.kenny

what revs should the boost come in at...it may be me used to just driving quicker cars but for a 2.0 turbo its seems very lazy???

i think there is an issue with the dump valve so going to block that off today and try it with a chirp insted as when you drive it every 5 to 10 mins the check engine light comes on and i am sure its down to a boost leak

as of now it holds just over half a bar of boost...is this normal???

tempted to wind the boost up on the actuator...not keen for spending mone on remaps as i am just waiting for the snow and the car is just going to be used to mess about in!

any thoughts or ideas or concerns would be good!

cheers

bigsinky

0.5 bar is not right. should be about 0.9 bar standard. you can use MBC to up the boost to about 1.1 before fuel cut. check fuelling and afr before you do though.

d.kenny

thats it im goin for it on the actuator then if blocking the dv up doesnt work...i like chirping better anyway haha

Geordie_Aaron

iTrader: (3)

chirp = compressor surge?
I though it's not a good thing to have?

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

Check the codes and see what it shows, as there is a problem as the ECU is detecting it, so a good start is with those.
Winding the actuator up and fitting a manual boost controller will result in a dead engine, but all depends on when.
Maybe after an hour maybe after years, just one of those things.

Me I`d get to the bottom of your current issues, then take it from there.

bigsinky

jim,

i have to say that and MBC is not ideal, BUT if he does it right i.e. checks fuelling and afr to make sure everything is safe then he should be ok. quite a big bang for your buck (if you will excuse the pun).

agreed, i would be having it checked out thoughly by a specialist to get to the bottom of what clearly is a fundamental problem.

d.kenny

How can I check the codes on this??? Take it there isn't a diagnostic port and the manual is in japanese cos its an import!

d.kenny

need to take it for a drive really...if blockingit up has worked then il go and get an old recirc of a mk4 golf or something and just vent it to atmosphere as there is a vw breakers close by...like i say its not my daily drive just a hack to have a laugh in in the snow!

d.kenny

anyone????

RedScoob

Make sure everything is plumbed in right to start with, then use the diagnostic check (connect the black and green connectors under the dash - do a search on here for the exact process) and see if it throws error codes. If it does, start here. If not, it's most likely a boost leak. Is it noisy when boosting (whooshing sound)? If so, you can check the hard pipe under the intercooler for a split, or loose fitting.
I believe 0. bar is "limp home" mode (but someone with more knowledge is bound to put me right). Could be something as simple as a rogue coilpack, but the diagnostics should help with anything more sinister...

d.kenny

just read the codes mate obviously as you was writing!!

its come up with code 23 which is 'mass airflow sensor circuit'

and 33 which is 'vehicle speed sensor'

soo 33 i know is obviously down to the speedo not working which i did not think was anything to be bothered about but is obviously causing an issue

and the air flow sensor circuit could be more of a headache

tears

what could the speedo fault be down to...looking through the reciepts there was a converter bought to go from kmh to mph...where is this even located??? is it an electronic drive in the box or is there a cable or i it likey that the clocks are knackered even though everything else is functional...heater fuel rpm etc etc

is the maf one going to be down to a fooked maf sensor or is the circuit or a broken wire likely to be the cause???

interestingly even though there is no lambda sensor currently hooked up it did not flag up a fault for this...bit weird no???

any advice would be good cheers

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

because the speedo isnt working the ecu doesnt know how much fuel and ignition advance to give . your car thinks its in neutral . sort the speedo out and the code 23 will sort its self out as for the lamba it should be in the headers on drivers side

d.kenny

What do I do about the 33 though lol

What do you reckon the speedo one will be???

RedScoob

Look behind the speedo and you'll probably find the convertor (KP/H to MPH), it's a little gearbox that connects to the back of the speedo.
Chances are that the input shaft (on the speedo cable) is not rotating the convertor properly, or has slipped out. You can fix this with a new convertor (the input spline may be worn), or some sticky-backed plastic and a prayer.
Once your speedo is working properly, the other codes should sort themselves as madscoob says.

d.kenny

Can I not just push it back in as originally fitted and have a kmh read out on the speedo instead??? Its just annoying when you drive as you can be giving it a bit then the power will cut...no good half way through a 4 wheel drift haha

addi monster

iTrader: (6)

take the clocks out and go for a drive, if the cable turns whilst driving its your clocks thats muffed, if it doesnt turn your cable is muffed

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

odds on it will be the bannana drive coming out of the gearbox , about £40quid fron import car parts , in 6 years mine has done 3 secondhand ones and now working on a brand new one

d.kenny

I'll try the clocks out one first seems less hassle and cheaper...will let you know how it gos!

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

all you have to do is jack driverside up , crawl under with 17mm spanner in hand and remove bannana from gearbox , do pull out cable retaining clip 1st though , and remove top part of cable from bannana

d.kenny

That can be the second option...the car is not my pride and joy lol...the less money it costs the better haha...the first option is free haha

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

whatever part you need heres where to go
http://www.japanesecarimports.net/parts.asp

d.kenny

Right all under torch light iv just managed to get the clocks out and what an absolute ******* that was...I jacked one side up and put it in gear and the speedo cabe IS rotating so I think the converter is knackered...I'm ****ed if you think I can get the clocks back in though under torch light...will have a go tomorrow and hopefully it will be problem solved!!!

Will it run better once the speedo is in then to??? I can't see any mechanical to electronic interface for the speed to have anything to do with the ecu??? Or is the 'banana' box a separate drice from the speedo cable???

Cheers again

madscoob

iTrader: (3)

the bannana box is a elbow pipe bolted ito the gearbox by a red plastic plug /nut. its a spiral drive with a male into gearbox and female to take the upper speedo cable . the coverters are a miniture right angled gearbox normally on the back of clocks or sometimes on the top of the bannana visable from behind turbo . prices are as follows
bannana 37.00 quid top cable 27.32 and converter if its buggered but its rare as mines done 85thousand miles are about 50quid hope this helps. remove cable from bannana and spin with someone looking at clocks end to see if top parts are buggered , bannana can be checkedc once removed

d.kenny

Iv got the clocks out all ready...pretty sure its the converter that is fooked when I removed it the square input shaft looks rounded off so whether its just to poor quality fitting parts or ill fitment I will never know!

Any tips on refitting the clocks as both the speedo cable and the wiring is tight as ****!

d.kenny

Got the speedo working now...will give it a propa run later to see if it throws a wobbler again...fingers crossed...hope I don't need an air flow meter...that will be just plain annoying...on the headers on the engine there isn't a provision for a lambda...will get it hot though and hopefully the boss in the downpipe is the same thread and I'll just bang it in there!

d.kenny

Fixing the speedo worked...sound people!

Jimbob

iTrader: (13)

You happy with the way she pulls now??

As you could have gone through blocking the dump valve off, then fitting a manual boost controller, then the actuator adjustment. And with the clocks being the root cause, could have put the normal adjustment way out.

Now you can play around with a MBC as you know its doing as it should.

BUT you`ll new need to find out what ECU you have, as you can then find out what your boost cut is standard so you can adjust the MBC up to just under the cut obviously allowing for some spike.

IF its a Z4


Just to give you some idea.

d.kenny

I'll have a look today...I haven't got an mbc I did it off the actuator and know how far I went so can wind it back...where is the ecu passenger side kick panel??? I'll have a look today then get winding it up haha...will it be safe to wind up to just before the boost cut??? Do they run lean and blow holes in the pistons??? Also what fuel are you meant to run them on super or normal stuff if its an import?

d.kenny

i reckon the intercooler or saome of the pipe work may have a leak but saying that when on boost and holding your foot on te brake to the boost does not drop off which id of thought it would if there was a leak...its sometimes confusing to define a boost leak or just the sucking from the turbo as it has a different exhaust on to...i know when i fitted an rs 500 intercooler on my cozzy it made loads of difference to the induction noise and there was definitely no leaks there...gonna whack the boost up to a bar anyway and see how she handles it id say its running about 9 or 10 psi now which is what it was previously running but it used to just go into limp mode obviously because of the speedo problem

can anyone offer any advice to on the coolng sytem...are they a **** to bleed the air locks out of???

isd there a bit of pressure in the pipes at all times or do i have an air lock...it doesnt spew water out of the expansion tank like it did with the previous engine just the pipe pressure seems slightly higher than what i am used to feeling...the temperature guage and heater are both fine just think its peculiar!!!

RedScoob

I've never had any problems bleeding the cooling system, just fill from the expansion tank while the engines running until it gets warm (heater on).