Defi gauges
09 September 2011, 12:28 PM
#2
It's in control of all your Defi gauges, they don't work without it.
All wires from SENDERS plug into colour coded ports in the rear of the control box, they are different sizes, so it's not possible to get the wrong sender plugged into it.
Then, one wire goes to the first, nearest gauge, with a shorter wire going from the second port on that gauge to the next gauge, and so on, in a "daisy chain".
The control box feeds signals along the single wire to each gauge, obviously they are coded so that each gauge only receives it's own signal. Very clever.
The control box also allows you to:
Set a peak value for each gauge, beyond which, an alarm sounds and lights flash.
See the peaks that have been reached by all gauges with the push of a single button, then remove them so as to see what you get NEXT time out.
Record a short time of what all gauges are doiong, so you can replay it when you stop. You then don't have to look when driving, good for track.
Link the boost gauge to the fuel pressure gauge so that the f/p gauge shows differential pressure, ie: how much ABOVE boost it is. It should therefore sit all but still ALL the time. Mine is then set so that if it falls below 3bar the alarm goes off.
Believe it or not, that feature saved my engine this year, in France, when a pipe going from manifold to fuel pressure regulator, split, allowing air in, weakening the mixture and dropping fuel pressure.
The alarm on the f/p gauge went off, I then watched it, sure enough it was dropping. I'd already seen knock, and added octane booster, but thought this was due to crappy French supermarket 98 octane
.
Putting a post on here got me looking for leaks, and there it was. The pipe is now shorter and held in place with a tiny stainless jubilee clip.
All wires from SENDERS plug into colour coded ports in the rear of the control box, they are different sizes, so it's not possible to get the wrong sender plugged into it.
Then, one wire goes to the first, nearest gauge, with a shorter wire going from the second port on that gauge to the next gauge, and so on, in a "daisy chain".
The control box feeds signals along the single wire to each gauge, obviously they are coded so that each gauge only receives it's own signal. Very clever.
The control box also allows you to:
Set a peak value for each gauge, beyond which, an alarm sounds and lights flash.
See the peaks that have been reached by all gauges with the push of a single button, then remove them so as to see what you get NEXT time out.
Record a short time of what all gauges are doiong, so you can replay it when you stop. You then don't have to look when driving, good for track.
Link the boost gauge to the fuel pressure gauge so that the f/p gauge shows differential pressure, ie: how much ABOVE boost it is. It should therefore sit all but still ALL the time. Mine is then set so that if it falls below 3bar the alarm goes off.
Believe it or not, that feature saved my engine this year, in France, when a pipe going from manifold to fuel pressure regulator, split, allowing air in, weakening the mixture and dropping fuel pressure.
The alarm on the f/p gauge went off, I then watched it, sure enough it was dropping. I'd already seen knock, and added octane booster, but thought this was due to crappy French supermarket 98 octane
.Putting a post on here got me looking for leaks, and there it was. The pipe is now shorter and held in place with a tiny stainless jubilee clip.
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